GQ factory diff lock problems

[redman]

Seems to work when just driving around but as soon as its needed it just seems to cut out. The light cuts in and out too.
Anyone clued up on these jiggers?

[JBE]

Do you mean they disengage under load? What makes you believe, that they work on the road?
They could just be worn out, but it sounds to me that you have a vacuum problem. Have you checked the solenoids? It is not unusual hat one of them is dead (they are a chea crap design). Could also be that your vacuum lines are not airtight.
Cheers
J

[redman]

Yep they disengage under load.
When I bought it the bloke drove round a roundabout ( as you do ) with the diff lock in and you could feel it and hear it working.
But yesterday we were testing it out by driving up an embankment on an angel so one rear wheel would lose grip first and as it would it would just spin and the light on the dash would also go out.
I'll have a look at the lines and the solenoids, but too be honest I've only just got the car and I'm not real sure whats what under there. (the "just got the car" bit is just an excuse as even if I'd had it for ages I would still have no clue).
Thanks for your help :-)

BTW are they any good when working well or am I wasting my time?

[JBE]

I've only got mine set up yesterday. They are strong lockers, but the solenoids are crap (I replaced mine with an industrial pneumatic solenoid). The locking mechanism only has two teeth/cogs and by engaging them under load, it can be wrecked fairly quickly. I'd say it's worth to get them working. If the car came with the locker, the switch is controlled by a speed sensor which only engages the locker below 10km.

[redman]

Thanks for the info

[waandy]

i had the same problem with mine. but now just wont work. am going to to see if the solanoid is stuck or clogged before i buy a different solanoid.
will let u know how i go

[cmcd]

Have a chat to Jono - he had a factory locker that went bad.

[JBE]

i had the same problem with mine. but now just wont work. am going to to see if the solanoid is stuck or clogged before i buy a different solanoid.
will let u know how i go

The easiest way to check if the solenoid is the problem, is to bypass it altogether. Just hook up the output hose of the top solenoid to the vacuum tank and if the locker engages on engine start, the solenoid is most likely stuffed.

[waandy]

i had the same problem with mine. but now just wont work. am going to to see if the solanoid is stuck or clogged before i buy a different solanoid.
will let u know how i go

The easiest way to check if the solenoid is the problem, is to bypass it altogether. Just hook up the output hose of the top solenoid to the vacuum tank and if the locker engages on engine start, the solenoid is most likely stuffed.

yea did that and broke the 2 input nipples off the solanoid so i just plumbed the disengaging line strait into the vacum tank line until i get another solanoid. will have a look 2moro in local hydraulic and pneumatic joint.
but now i know how good these lockers actually work. im very impressed

[JBE]

Aparrently, you can use the solenoids out of the Toyota Surfs. They are used for the pneumatically actuated hubs AFAIK and are about $10 a pop from the wreckers. I bought a MAC valve which ends up being about $200 with the fittings needed. It is a good valve, but it is a complete overkill for the application.

[Reddo]

Factory locker problems and schematic
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=32388

[waandy]

Aparrently, you can use the solenoids out of the Toyota Surfs. They are used for the pneumatically actuated hubs AFAIK and are about $10 a pop from the wreckers. I bought a MAC valve which ends up being about $200 with the fittings needed. It is a good valve, but it is a complete overkill for the application.

hey hey yep surf solanoids work a treat fellers
put mine in 2day. wrapped as

[sudso]

BTW are they any good when working well or am I wasting my time?

Any locker is damn good when they work. The factory Nissan ones are as strong if not stronger than ARB air lockers but engaging them on the road can still wreck 'em.
You really only need it on when a wheel lift off the ground or a loss of traction causing bogging is anticipated.
They can be slow to engage or disengage because they only have two locking teeth which can over run while trying to engage due to worn edges on the teeth.
The manual says to keep below 7kmh to engage the locker, too fast and the teeth will overun.