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Rocky chassis into a Feroza, hilux diffs and Re-fit my 33's
Moderator: Tiny
Rocky chassis into a Feroza, hilux diffs and Re-fit my 33's
Just had my 95 feroza written off (repairable write off) by the insurance company with very little body damage though the chassis is bent and cracked.
Have found a local wrecker that has a Rocky chassis for $400 and will be getting the Feroza back for approx $500
The idea is to use the rocky chassis, feroza body, hilux diffs, then change to hilux box/transfer/maybe motor later.
Ive spoken to a couple of people that said that it could be engineered in QLD, but would take to long and cost too much, two have sugested doing the work then having it engineered in NSW, registed, then change the rego to up here after 6months.
Have taken a pile of measurements from both the rocky and a feroza body mount points in the same wrecking yard and only the front of the rocky chassis seams to be about 35mm longer (though carnt check if these front points are higher or lower), all other body mounts measure up to be the same.
Some mounts etc on the chassis are slightly different (rear leaf monts are a different shape but same location) and the engine/gearbox mounts from what ive seen (though I can cut these from my old chassis and weld them on).
Any HELPFULL advise would be appreciated, info from anyone that has anything similar engineered in QLD would be great etc
Have found a local wrecker that has a Rocky chassis for $400 and will be getting the Feroza back for approx $500
The idea is to use the rocky chassis, feroza body, hilux diffs, then change to hilux box/transfer/maybe motor later.
Ive spoken to a couple of people that said that it could be engineered in QLD, but would take to long and cost too much, two have sugested doing the work then having it engineered in NSW, registed, then change the rego to up here after 6months.
Have taken a pile of measurements from both the rocky and a feroza body mount points in the same wrecking yard and only the front of the rocky chassis seams to be about 35mm longer (though carnt check if these front points are higher or lower), all other body mounts measure up to be the same.
Some mounts etc on the chassis are slightly different (rear leaf monts are a different shape but same location) and the engine/gearbox mounts from what ive seen (though I can cut these from my old chassis and weld them on).
Any HELPFULL advise would be appreciated, info from anyone that has anything similar engineered in QLD would be great etc
Last edited by kyzermattingley on Fri May 29, 2009 12:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Sounds like a HUGE project to me mate.
There will be a lot of issues to overcome and i think you will be lucky to get it engineered in QLD.
It would be interesting none the less and i would be interested to see the build if you do decide to do it.
BTW i Replaced my Feroza chassis a few years back with no dramas.
Chassis cost me $100 from wreckers and just swapped eveything over.
There is a thread on it in here somewhere.
Good luck.
There will be a lot of issues to overcome and i think you will be lucky to get it engineered in QLD.
It would be interesting none the less and i would be interested to see the build if you do decide to do it.
BTW i Replaced my Feroza chassis a few years back with no dramas.
Chassis cost me $100 from wreckers and just swapped eveything over.
There is a thread on it in here somewhere.
Good luck.
Clint,
Limited Edition 95 Roza & 2006 ST Patrol Coil Cab Ute.... both a work in progress.
Limited Edition 95 Roza & 2006 ST Patrol Coil Cab Ute.... both a work in progress.
Just to Show I have the Engineering ability and just showing off my other toy.
I built this car almost a year ago now and built EVERTHING in the entire car. Fabricated the cage, equal length 4-link rear, front control arms and castor rods, engine brackets, gearbox crossmember, sheet metal guards etc, as well as braketing the toyota commercial diff, rebuilding the motor etc etc etc
Built the wheels too 15 x 9.5 all round all 5 sets
My MIG and TIG are my friends
Didnt paint the exterior though, was done by a good mate at Perfection Bodyworks
Anyway, any helpfull advice would be great, cheers.
I built this car almost a year ago now and built EVERTHING in the entire car. Fabricated the cage, equal length 4-link rear, front control arms and castor rods, engine brackets, gearbox crossmember, sheet metal guards etc, as well as braketing the toyota commercial diff, rebuilding the motor etc etc etc
Built the wheels too 15 x 9.5 all round all 5 sets
My MIG and TIG are my friends
Didnt paint the exterior though, was done by a good mate at Perfection Bodyworks
Anyway, any helpfull advice would be great, cheers.
i'd check the engineering situation between NSW and QLD before I got started.
There's discussion currently that even mods that have current engineers certs may have to pass current standards and that could spell big problems for some.
Just wondering why swap the chassis if your changing virtually everything anyway ? Why not simply mod a Feroza one in the first place ? Probebly less work IMO.
IF you looking at a Feroza / hilux SAS on the front - its certainly do-able as long as you dont run an engine with a massive vertical sump. My objection to Feroza SAS's has always been around height when coupled with poor motor choices. Its do-able ( just... ) with the right motor IMO as long as your not looking for heaps of bump travel.
As for the rear end - its no big deal... Im already running a lux rear and it presents no serous challenges - except for the unspeakable lux rear brakes. I've swapped to disks and that solved that.
There's discussion currently that even mods that have current engineers certs may have to pass current standards and that could spell big problems for some.
Just wondering why swap the chassis if your changing virtually everything anyway ? Why not simply mod a Feroza one in the first place ? Probebly less work IMO.
IF you looking at a Feroza / hilux SAS on the front - its certainly do-able as long as you dont run an engine with a massive vertical sump. My objection to Feroza SAS's has always been around height when coupled with poor motor choices. Its do-able ( just... ) with the right motor IMO as long as your not looking for heaps of bump travel.
As for the rear end - its no big deal... Im already running a lux rear and it presents no serous challenges - except for the unspeakable lux rear brakes. I've swapped to disks and that solved that.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
MM did you use disks off of another model Hilux? Bolt on fitment?
Was looking to not run a body lift this time and run the diff's SOA, need to get the two together then have a play with heights, clearances etc.
Had heard about that change in the laws 2, the last cop that pulled me up mentioned it and gave me the number of the guys that where looking after writing them, called them once and they weren't really interested in talking.
Was looking to not run a body lift this time and run the diff's SOA, need to get the two together then have a play with heights, clearances etc.
Had heard about that change in the laws 2, the last cop that pulled me up mentioned it and gave me the number of the guys that where looking after writing them, called them once and they weren't really interested in talking.
the chassis/body swap is doable in qld as there is a 60series chassis with a 350 chev in it and a 1935 chev pick up body on it with a hilux styleside tray running around the sunshine coast so what you are talking about doing should be easy to engineer
R.I.P. Darryl "DAZZA" Mutch 02/08/1978 - 26/08/2012 aged 34 years ... You will be missed my little brother.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=39190&start=150
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=39190&start=150
I lust for your Levin.......
I'll trade my Rocky with Hilux diffs anyday for that drift machine of yours...
What's under the hood?
4AGEZE block with a turbo to match like a GT2871R with nos?
heheh...
Or keihin 4 throttle and wild cams...
I heard the axles and diff are quite weak on them...
Did any work to beef them up?
I'll trade my Rocky with Hilux diffs anyday for that drift machine of yours...
What's under the hood?
4AGEZE block with a turbo to match like a GT2871R with nos?
heheh...
Or keihin 4 throttle and wild cams...
I heard the axles and diff are quite weak on them...
Did any work to beef them up?
My RIG sucks big time.
Ahh where to start (drift car that is),
MOTOR- s14 series2 SR20det, tomei cam gears, HKS 256/264 cams, tomei rocker stoppers, 850cc injectors, enlarged throttle body, removal of variable cam timing, deleted AAC (for faster throttle response), oil lines tapped straight into block, JAP exhaust manifold, HKS 2510 turbo, 3inch exhaust with screamer pipe from waste gate. POWER- 171rwkw @14psi,
GEARBOX- R33 NA skyline box, OS giken twin plate clutch, tomei short shifter kit
TAILSHAFT- 3"
DIFF AND HOUSING- Toyota tarago E series, custom mounts, 4" traction brackets, custom brackets to fit s13 rear disk brakes, all brackets braced, enlarged -14breather, locked 4.5 center
SUSPENSION- Custom coilover rear, equal length 4-link rear, adjustable panhard mount, adjustable panhard, Every joint in the entire car is rose jointed and adjustable, front uses modified s13 control arms, HSD base adjustable damper adjustable coilovers, custom adjustable caster rods
etc etc etc
MOTOR- s14 series2 SR20det, tomei cam gears, HKS 256/264 cams, tomei rocker stoppers, 850cc injectors, enlarged throttle body, removal of variable cam timing, deleted AAC (for faster throttle response), oil lines tapped straight into block, JAP exhaust manifold, HKS 2510 turbo, 3inch exhaust with screamer pipe from waste gate. POWER- 171rwkw @14psi,
GEARBOX- R33 NA skyline box, OS giken twin plate clutch, tomei short shifter kit
TAILSHAFT- 3"
DIFF AND HOUSING- Toyota tarago E series, custom mounts, 4" traction brackets, custom brackets to fit s13 rear disk brakes, all brackets braced, enlarged -14breather, locked 4.5 center
SUSPENSION- Custom coilover rear, equal length 4-link rear, adjustable panhard mount, adjustable panhard, Every joint in the entire car is rose jointed and adjustable, front uses modified s13 control arms, HSD base adjustable damper adjustable coilovers, custom adjustable caster rods
etc etc etc
Assuming that what has been passed in the past is going to get through now is a mistake IMO. Talk to an engineer first, just imagine doing all that work on the assumption that "she's ok" to find out the rules have changed..... I've even heard of situations where what was going to be ok at a build start turned out to be a problem on reg.
As I understand it there's absolutely no requirement for the authorities to register a vehicle even if its got an engineers report - so caution seems very wise. Or just do it and hope......
The rear disks are Feroza fronts ( solids ) bolted to the rear face of the axles. This was possible as it has custom axles ( EN28 IIRC ) and so I drilled a set of mounting holes for the disks duriing the build. As it turned out they were needed more quickly than I'd expected. Calipers are Nissan 180SX.
As I understand it there's absolutely no requirement for the authorities to register a vehicle even if its got an engineers report - so caution seems very wise. Or just do it and hope......
The rear disks are Feroza fronts ( solids ) bolted to the rear face of the axles. This was possible as it has custom axles ( EN28 IIRC ) and so I drilled a set of mounting holes for the disks duriing the build. As it turned out they were needed more quickly than I'd expected. Calipers are Nissan 180SX.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Drool.....................kyzermattingley wrote:Ahh where to start (drift car that is),
MOTOR- s14 series2 SR20det, tomei cam gears, HKS 256/264 cams, tomei rocker stoppers, 850cc injectors, enlarged throttle body, removal of variable cam timing, deleted AAC (for faster throttle response), oil lines tapped straight into block, JAP exhaust manifold, HKS 2510 turbo, 3inch exhaust with screamer pipe from waste gate. POWER- 171rwkw @14psi,
GEARBOX- R33 NA skyline box, OS giken twin plate clutch, tomei short shifter kit
TAILSHAFT- 3"
DIFF AND HOUSING- Toyota tarago E series, custom mounts, 4" traction brackets, custom brackets to fit s13 rear disk brakes, all brackets braced, enlarged -14breather, locked 4.5 center
SUSPENSION- Custom coilover rear, equal length 4-link rear, adjustable panhard mount, adjustable panhard, Every joint in the entire car is rose jointed and adjustable, front uses modified s13 control arms, HSD base adjustable damper adjustable coilovers, custom adjustable caster rods
etc etc etc
But i'm sorry havent heard of a HKS 2510 turbo b4... Must be pretty tiny right?
My little Datsun Sunny is not as radical as yours but its running 87mm pistons, balanced, port and polished head, cam gears with rocker arm stopper, hks 1.2mm head gasket, sr16neovvl oil pump and a Garrett 2871R... Nothing fancy, just abit more poke for road use.
My RIG sucks big time.
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