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Maybe I'm just dreamin but an HC-E K3-VET? - 103kw 177nm
Moderator: Tiny
Maybe I'm just dreamin but an HC-E K3-VET? - 103kw 177nm
Don't know much but I beleve that some G200 Charades came with the HD-E donk and some with the HD-EG Detomato. Just been trawling and read that some came with a HC-E 1.3-litre SOHC, 16-valve head and EFI producing 62kW, but more importantly, some came with a HC-E-K3-VET. This s a 1.3 DOHC, 16-valve intercooled turbo engine using a 8.5:1 static compression ratio and gets up to 103kW at 6400 rpm and 177Nm at 3200 rpm. . Could this be viable compatabilty wise or is it just late and I'm deluded with grandure?
HC & HD blocks are virtually identical ( HC deck height is lower ) so they are absolutely interchangable.
Bad news is.....
1/ You have to rev the tits of them to make power - useless in a 4WD where gearing is always an issue and low down torque is very important.
2/ They don't last long at this sort of power
3/ Its more than just an engine swap you need all the bits, loom ecu etc etc - the turbo is where the engine mount needs to be in a Feroza
4/ Overheating at low speeds is going to be BIG problem.
4/ The Feroza transmission isn't going to like that sort of power - unless its an auto and in that case there are far better engines.
Its NOT simply a matter of peak power and torque that matters its more about does the engines characteristics match the vehicles requirements.
For example my Detomaso motor made 84kW@ 7000 RPM... but unfortunately at 3000 RPM ( my RPM @100 KPH ) it made 37kW, not enough. Detuned it makes less power but is more drivable.
There are lots of bike engines that make impressive power -but not at the sort of RPM and durability needed for a car - its just more complex that peak figures
Bad news is.....
1/ You have to rev the tits of them to make power - useless in a 4WD where gearing is always an issue and low down torque is very important.
2/ They don't last long at this sort of power
3/ Its more than just an engine swap you need all the bits, loom ecu etc etc - the turbo is where the engine mount needs to be in a Feroza
4/ Overheating at low speeds is going to be BIG problem.
4/ The Feroza transmission isn't going to like that sort of power - unless its an auto and in that case there are far better engines.
Its NOT simply a matter of peak power and torque that matters its more about does the engines characteristics match the vehicles requirements.
For example my Detomaso motor made 84kW@ 7000 RPM... but unfortunately at 3000 RPM ( my RPM @100 KPH ) it made 37kW, not enough. Detuned it makes less power but is more drivable.
There are lots of bike engines that make impressive power -but not at the sort of RPM and durability needed for a car - its just more complex that peak figures
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
I knew it wouldn't be that simple
Thanks for the education Mighty. I believe they're puting these in the Jap release of the Terios. Talking of things Japanese, I've just started dating one and her dad's a mechanic back in Japan - woohoo (and she's 1/2 my age - woohoo)
I've found a detomaso close by and am going to check it out soon. From everything I've read in the forums this is the best opton, right? I scored a garrett t2 recently but the local turbo shop (who deal with oem only) said it wasn't worth the hassle.
As for the detom, would it be a better option bang for back wise to just cam and extract or are there other benifits with the detom?
Sorry but I'm just a novce tryin to learn as much as I can
I've found a detomaso close by and am going to check it out soon. From everything I've read in the forums this is the best opton, right? I scored a garrett t2 recently but the local turbo shop (who deal with oem only) said it wasn't worth the hassle.
As for the detom, would it be a better option bang for back wise to just cam and extract or are there other benifits with the detom?
Sorry but I'm just a novce tryin to learn as much as I can
Found it
Sorry. found what I was lookin for in the FAQs 
NuB but all DIY 92 F300 2"b/lift,15x7 black Dynamic,31"Bignhorny,Bocar b/bar,reversed rollbar,cust
tonneau,cust cargo barrier,cust grill,cust snorkel(soon),wants-sport zorst,40mm sus lift,cam
tonneau,cust cargo barrier,cust grill,cust snorkel(soon),wants-sport zorst,40mm sus lift,cam
The most significant performance addition / modification to the HD-EG engine was a knock sensor and electronic timing control unit. Whilst there are a number other differences at the end of the day they are nowhere nearly as important.
In reality there's not a big difference between the HD-E and the HD-EG
The mechanical dissy is a significant limitation for the standard HD-E engine, you just can't get enough advance in when it needs it and stop it pinging its head off elsewhere.
In reality there's not a big difference between the HD-E and the HD-EG
The mechanical dissy is a significant limitation for the standard HD-E engine, you just can't get enough advance in when it needs it and stop it pinging its head off elsewhere.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
RE knock sensor and electronic timing control
Thanks Mighty
Are there any suitable after market options for the knock sensor, etc unit or the dissy that mght be recommended if you were to try to follow the mods on the d'tomato or is it another one for the too hard/expensive basket?
I've started looking into piggybacks for the 'puter but haven't got far yet other than they're either expensive or, if they're cheaper, don't do much good.
Sorry 'bout all the questions (call me Eddie) but I'm just another newb tryin' to work it out and the help's really appreciated. Been readin' the FAQs but sometiimes that confuzzes me more and most of the posts are pretty old so not sure what's changed (if anything).
Are there any suitable after market options for the knock sensor, etc unit or the dissy that mght be recommended if you were to try to follow the mods on the d'tomato or is it another one for the too hard/expensive basket?
I've started looking into piggybacks for the 'puter but haven't got far yet other than they're either expensive or, if they're cheaper, don't do much good.
Sorry 'bout all the questions (call me Eddie) but I'm just another newb tryin' to work it out and the help's really appreciated. Been readin' the FAQs but sometiimes that confuzzes me more and most of the posts are pretty old so not sure what's changed (if anything).
NuB but all DIY 92 F300 2"b/lift,15x7 black Dynamic,31"Bignhorny,Bocar b/bar,reversed rollbar,cust
tonneau,cust cargo barrier,cust grill,cust snorkel(soon),wants-sport zorst,40mm sus lift,cam
tonneau,cust cargo barrier,cust grill,cust snorkel(soon),wants-sport zorst,40mm sus lift,cam
If it was me I'd be going for a MegaSquirt ECU and not bothering about the piggyback system.
MegaSquirt will give you spark and fuel control with a knock sensor option as well - although tuning a knock sensor to pickup detonation and not the myriad of engine noises isn't an easy task.
In all cases electronic fiddling does require some knowledge of EFI principles so if your lacking and have to get others to do all the work it will get expensive.
Also - as i've said several thousand times before ...... the 1600 Engine is really too small for a vehicle the weight of a Feroza. More power caqn be had but its always going to be at higher than useable RPM which limits its attractiveness.
A good 1.8 or 2 ltr is more in line with the vehicles actual need IMO.
MegaSquirt will give you spark and fuel control with a knock sensor option as well - although tuning a knock sensor to pickup detonation and not the myriad of engine noises isn't an easy task.
In all cases electronic fiddling does require some knowledge of EFI principles so if your lacking and have to get others to do all the work it will get expensive.
Also - as i've said several thousand times before ...... the 1600 Engine is really too small for a vehicle the weight of a Feroza. More power caqn be had but its always going to be at higher than useable RPM which limits its attractiveness.
A good 1.8 or 2 ltr is more in line with the vehicles actual need IMO.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
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