sender adapters for pyro - now drill/tap manifold ..

[shorty_f0rty]

Hey fellas,

Did a search but didn't turn up anything of use. I have recently bought a 3" Beaudesert exhaust and a Metric Autometer Pyro.

The dump pipe has a 1/4" GAS BSP fitting pre-welded in.
The gauge comes with a 1/8" NPT fitting on the sender.

I have visited ENZED and they have tapped out a 1/4" BSP m/f fitting to accept 1/8 NPT.

I am wondering if anyone has had the same issue and how they adapted the sender to the dump pipe? I notice that there is an Autometer pyro fitting kit (Part #5254) but it only appears to mention a 1/4 weld on fitting (assuming NPT not BSP though).

Also, the amount of sender in the dump pump is going to be less due to the length of the adapter (it was a low profile brass fitting that we used). Will this affect the readings much to be of concern?

Any suggestions on how to get this sender to fit?

Thanks!

[dumbdunce]

quick, plug that hole, drill a hole in the manifold just before the turbo, and put the probe in there. it took a long time to convince me but I am now a true believer, there is little value in a pyro after the turbo - the response is too slow and very high temperatures can be masked unless you err so far on the conservative side you may as well not have a pyro.

so in genuine answer to the question, the best way to get the sender to fit is to drill and tap a hole in the manifold.

DISCLAIMER: do this at your own risk yadda yadda. you do not need to remove the turbo or manifold - use a vacuum to suck swarf as you drill and use grease or proper tapping lube as you tap the thread, then 99% of the swarf will be trapped in the lube. any swarf that does fall in will blow through the turbine harmlessly.

I have used this method on several vehicles.

[fester2au]

I had the same problem with another American pyro that I bought and installed. Found that all off the shelf adaptors were way too long and you have found even this way loses some probe length which is not ideal. As dumbdunce said tapping into manifold is best approach but alternatively you could bung the original hole and weld/get someone to weld in the correct socket.

On mine the adaptors would have left nothing and I didn't see any great gain in your approach but luckily we had some stainless pipe at work that we had threaded for another job and it was the right size to put the NPT fitting into and I was able to TIG them together giving me a BSP fitting of the same length as the NPT.

Ideally I'll get around to drilling and tapping the manifold one day also.

[Dirty]

Had the same problem, I just drilled out the bung that came with the exhaust and put a thread in it.

Will move to the manifold when I finish the turbo upgrade.

- David.

[shorty_f0rty]

Thanks for the suggestions guys..

I installed the pyro using the brass adapter I sourced yesterday.. Its very sluggish to move and it hasn't moved over about 350c even when pushing it hard up a hill..

I think I'll replace the bung in the dump and get the manifold tapped like its been suggested.

Where on a 1HD-T would be a good place to tap the manifold?? At the front/mid or rear of it engine?

[philhod]

Shorty Forty, I did the exact same as you. Enzed tapped out a fitting for me and I used that. Yes you do lose a bit of probe length, but mine seems to be working fine.

[shorty_f0rty]

so in genuine answer to the question, the best way to get the sender to fit is to drill and tap a hole in the manifold.

DISCLAIMER: do this at your own risk yadda yadda. you do not need to remove the turbo or manifold - use a vacuum to suck swarf as you drill and use grease or proper tapping lube as you tap the thread, then 99% of the swarf will be trapped in the lube. any swarf that does fall in will blow through the turbine harmlessly.

I have used this method on several vehicles.

I was thinking I could give this a go myself sometime today.. Whats the best position to put it? The most accessible position? If you drill the manifold just before the turbo its not going to weaken anything is it?

What size drill bit and tap/die set will I need to match npt thread. I'm googling now and will check out bunnings a bit later for the gear.

[dumbdunce]

so in genuine answer to the question, the best way to get the sender to fit is to drill and tap a hole in the manifold.

DISCLAIMER: do this at your own risk yadda yadda. you do not need to remove the turbo or manifold - use a vacuum to suck swarf as you drill and use grease or proper tapping lube as you tap the thread, then 99% of the swarf will be trapped in the lube. any swarf that does fall in will blow through the turbine harmlessly.

I have used this method on several vehicles.

I was thinking I could give this a go myself sometime today.. Whats the best position to put it? The most accessible position? If you drill the manifold just before the turbo its not going to weaken anything is it?

What size drill bit and tap/die set will I need to match npt thread. I'm googling now and will check out bunnings a bit later for the gear.

you won't find the tap at bunnings, you'll need to go to an actual tool shop. if it's 1/4 NPT obviously you'll need 1/4 NPT tap. size the drill bit off the tap. if it's a decent tool shop they should have a tapping drill chart and the bloke can make a buck selling you the exact right drill bit.

mine is in the middle of the manifold, just before the turbo flange. the manifold casting is about 6 - 8mm thick there, plenty strong.

I used an air drill with a shortened drill bit for access. you could also use a cheapie 90 degree drill adaptor and a cordless/power drill.

remove the turbo crossover and stuff some clean rag in the inlet manifold and the turbo outlet. remove the heat shield, it will need to be trimmed a bit around where the probe goes in. access is a bit awkward for drilling but it's a lot easier than removing the manifold. drill and tap. I used a piece of wire to measure across the inside of the manifold to work out the ideal depth for the probe.

install the probe and trim the heat shield before re-installing it. don't be tempted to leave the heat shield off, it's there for a reason.



the difference in response time and accuracy is unbelievable.

[SIMMO84]

Soo whats a good number before the turbo? 750c ?

[udm]

Whats the best position to put it?

right here

[udm]

Soo whats a good number before the turbo? 750c ?

i would keep it under 650c

[me3@neuralfibre.com]

Installing mine in manifold here

http://neuralfibre.com/paul/4wd/fitting ... oost-gauge

Agree with Dumbdunce. It's the only way to go.

If your manifold is a "split pulse" design, ideally you should try to get the probe "into" the splitter, so it sees all the cylinders.

Mine is a split pulse, but I didn't go for that level of detail at the time.
The benfits of not seeing all the cylinders are debateable. The onyl real ideal used on stationary diesels is EGT for each cylinder.

Paul