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Winch elec cable lengths
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 11:25 am
by PJ.zook
I dont see a problem but i thought i might ask. Due to space i cant mount the control box for my Ironman 9500 winch actually on the winch where they are made to fit. I need to mount it inside engine bay, which means i have to extend the cables going to the winch by about two feet.
To make it easier im going to just replace the cables completely with longer ones of the same gauge, this shouldnt be a problem should it, would expect bugger all voltage loss?
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 12:40 pm
by chimpboy
If it's the main power cables from battery to winch, shorter is better and it matters a lot.
But if you are just talking about the controls themselves it shouldn't matter much.
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 1:10 pm
by PJ.zook
Cables from control box to winch.
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 2:33 pm
by -Scott-
I'm still not clear - by "control box" do you mean the solenoids, or simply the switching wires?
Ultimately, you lose voltage over the entire length of the electrical path from positive battery terminal, through the solenoids, the winch motor and the return path back to the negative battery terminal.
Lengthening the cables between the solenoids & the winch motor isn't much of an issue if you can reduce the length between battery and solenoids. If you need to extend both, I would suggest either finding another solution, or using larger cables.
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 3:48 pm
by phil94delica
Just shorten up the cables from the batt to the control box to compensate and you will be fine. Its not like the winch will be working that hard pulling a zook anyway
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 8:19 pm
by PJ.zook
Yeh ill just get some more cable tomorra and redo em all in the control box. Technically its not really solenoids anymore, but same same.
Gonna mount it where the jack used to sit.
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 9:39 pm
by Mudzuki
Welding cable is good for this application.
And really well insulated.
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 10:04 am
by PJ.zook
What is better for joining terminals to the cable, solder or crimp? We have always just crimped it at work, but an auto elec bloke i bought some terminals off swears by solder.
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 10:24 am
by crunk81us
I use an lpg blow torch to heat it up, and whack lots of solder into the lug after I have crimped it. Then I cover the whole thing with liquid electrical tape, and over the top of that with race tape. Makes for a perfectly sealed connection that is not prone to corrosion. especially good if you do beach work
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 1:14 pm
by BASSYK
crunk81us wrote:I use an lpg blow torch to heat it up, and whack lots of solder into the lug after I have crimped it. Then I cover the whole thing with liquid electrical tape, and over the top of that with race tape. Makes for a perfectly sealed connection that is not prone to corrosion. especially good if you do beach work
this sounds like a good connection .
i wouldnt rely on solder alone as it can melt when heated up during winching and could cause a major failure.
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 1:36 pm
by krusty182
I personally believe that a correctly sized crimp lug crimped on the cable with the right tool is superior to a soldered lug connection for this application.
The connection will be practically impervious to corrosion if covered with glue lined heat shrink.
I know there are a lot of opinions out there, so I will qualify mine as an industrial electrician with more than ten years experience. We never solder lugs on to cables.
Cheers,
Krusty
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 2:04 pm
by PJ.zook
Thanks for replys. I was propably going to crimp it anyway as i have access to the proper tools, just wanting to know if it indeed was a good way to go.
Just need to find some right angled terminals now.
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 2:11 pm
by macca81
i very rarely solder joins.
1. soldering ends the only advantage multistrand wire has over single strand. flexibility.
2. solder becomes prone to cracking from vibrations, something that every 4wd suffers from.
3. solder doesnt allow the flow of electricity as well as crimps (generally).
4. a well crimped connection is MUCH harder to break.
5. much easier to switch wires around should you need to if you only have to pull 2 connectors apart than if you have to re-melt solder.
the only time i solder is if i am making a "T" connection, even then i would rather cut the wire and use crimp connectors if i can.
BUT!!!! if you only have a cheap crimping tool, then forget about it. go spend the money of a quality ratcheting crimper, its worth it!
my 2c worth
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 2:41 pm
by PJ.zook
Yeh work has a quality unit which i will use.
But...
WHERE THE HELL DO YOU FIND RIGHT ANGLE CRIMP LUGS??????
Ive rang everywhere, cant find em, i know theyre available, just cant find anyone who has em.
They look like this except on a right angle:
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 3:38 pm
by macca81
hit it with a hammer??
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 4:22 pm
by PJ.zook
Tried that, just splits the bastards.
Well ive rung everywhere, ya just cant get em.
One bloke i rang gave me an idea of using some nice copper bar, cut to about 2inch long, drill suitable holes at either end, bend 90deg in middle, then bolt one end of copper to solenoid (for lack of better description), and the other to a freshly crimped on lug, then heatshrink the shizen out of it.
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 9:29 pm
by macca81
heat it with an oxy then gently tap it??
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 10:25 pm
by -Scott-
macca81 wrote:heat it with an oxy then gently tap it??
Hmmm. Get it hot, then tap it. I'll have to remember that tip.
Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2009 10:40 pm
by T_Diesel
-Scott- wrote:macca81 wrote:heat it with an oxy then gently tap it??
Hmmm. Just like KFC, rub their thighs and play wth their breats so they get hot and sweaty, then tap it. I'll have to remember that tip.
Fixed
Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 7:37 pm
by macca81
-Scott- wrote:macca81 wrote:heat it with an oxy then gently tap it??
Hmmm. Get it hot, then tap it. I'll have to remember that tip.
dirty, dirty man!