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WILL I FIT 35'S ?? PLEASE HELP
WILL I FIT 35'S ?? PLEASE HELP
hello all i new on this web site so not really sure what to do when asking questions but i hope i got it right , anyway too the importand bit i have a GQ patrol its standard at the moment but in the next couple of weeks im getting a 3" suspension lift and 2" body lift and want to know if i'll fit 35" tyres i hope i have given you enough info if not just ask butt let me noo whatyou think dont know if its important but its a 4.2 petrol 1990 GQ model any advice very much appreciated ...
sorry bud anything bigger than a 29 inch tyre is too big for a gq with anything under a 7 inch suspension and 3 inch body with cut gaurds. id also suggest changing to 3.9 diff gears
cheers
cheers
1hd-fte 5 speed tiptronic 105 series
78 series troopy for work
gu ute play truck For sale
FTE 80 series sahara Sold
i think i have a problem
78 series troopy for work
gu ute play truck For sale
FTE 80 series sahara Sold
i think i have a problem
zookanator01, welcome to the forum.
First up, 35's can fit with as little as 2" of suspension lift. If you value ride quality and your body mounts, don't waste your time doing a body lift. Sure, they might be a cheap way to get lift, but you'll flog out your body/chassis mounts in no time, not to mention the other side effects that come with BLs.
Secondly (as bogged has kindly pointed out) search, search, search, then search some more. If your new to 4x4's, and new to Patrols, take the time to read through the forum threads before starting a new thread. Chances are that whatever questions you have, it will have already been covered (such as "Will 35's fit my GQ?").
The GQ/GU "Bible" is located here: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic101692.php
And the "General 4x4 Bible" is located here: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic50818.php
I hope you enjoy your stay at OL, happy wheeling.
EDIT: Forgot - keep an open mind, have flexible sense of humour, and don't take any comments to heart. Some people may come accross as having a "dig", but trust me - there are far harsher forums out there. We don't talk about goats or cats on here either.
First up, 35's can fit with as little as 2" of suspension lift. If you value ride quality and your body mounts, don't waste your time doing a body lift. Sure, they might be a cheap way to get lift, but you'll flog out your body/chassis mounts in no time, not to mention the other side effects that come with BLs.
Secondly (as bogged has kindly pointed out) search, search, search, then search some more. If your new to 4x4's, and new to Patrols, take the time to read through the forum threads before starting a new thread. Chances are that whatever questions you have, it will have already been covered (such as "Will 35's fit my GQ?").
The GQ/GU "Bible" is located here: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic101692.php
And the "General 4x4 Bible" is located here: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic50818.php
I hope you enjoy your stay at OL, happy wheeling.
EDIT: Forgot - keep an open mind, have flexible sense of humour, and don't take any comments to heart. Some people may come accross as having a "dig", but trust me - there are far harsher forums out there. We don't talk about goats or cats on here either.
Last edited by coxy321 on Fri Jul 31, 2009 9:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The above pic has cut guards so doesn't really count. Depending on what tyre brand you get, you may need 10-20mm radius arm spacers to clear the rear of the front guard. I have a 2 inch body lift with just a tad over 2 inch suspension and its fine.
GU Patrol intercooled TD42T, lifted, Cheezy sliders, ARB air locker, beadlocked Claws, Warn winch
zookanator01 wrote:so why be a smart arse in the first place not everyone knows everything like you
nah bud i dont know everything. i just know that u should SEARCH.
ive been on outerlimits for nearly 5 years now and i gaurentee you atleast every week someone asks if they can fit 35's to there gq. surely somewhere in those 250 previous posts lies your answer.
ps body lifts blow goatsand suspension height makes no difference what so ever to tyre clearance, how ever bumpstop spacing and gaurd chops do.
1hd-fte 5 speed tiptronic 105 series
78 series troopy for work
gu ute play truck For sale
FTE 80 series sahara Sold
i think i have a problem
78 series troopy for work
gu ute play truck For sale
FTE 80 series sahara Sold
i think i have a problem
Well, my advise
stick in the three inch springs, space your front controls arms, and then chop the guards out, and see how you go from there. Most case's, you only catch the back of the guard on the front, however on the rear, and if your truck is flexing well in the rear, you will hit the front of the rear wheel arch. We chopped the guards on our rover, and because the suspension walks and travels really really well, we ended up limiting its up travel, and in the below picture, it may of saved the car from going right over.... Flex is not important to me, i just like a firm set up off rd, and spend more time driving the tracks, than looking at how much my suspension goes up and down...
If the lift sag's, and isnt doing what you want, hit up the body lift. Only thing you need to watch out for is the brake lines between the body and chassie, you will need to bend those down, and whatch what the steering does. Also, radiator shroud will need to be adjusted (nissan run hot in the hill's, so cooling is very important in maintaining). Slow and steady is best, and you will have no problems. Remember to lift you bars as well, as they look ghetto racing when they have not been lifted...
Gearing will be okay, just be ready to loose low second on some of the steep stuff, and in the heavy mud. 1st will become your new best friend, and i don't know about you, but i use second a lot, however i have a bit of power to throw around hehe, so i just over ride the above situations...
Drop the ratios to 4.6's and you will be laughing, it will power 35's, 36's and dirty sevens all day, everyday. You can get 4.6's out of the 2.8 wagons, ebay, and outers, but they will cost you, as they seam to be wanted by many peeps.... Give Brunswick diesels a call in WA, as they convert a lot of patrols with the chev, and they change the gearing around to suit, and sometimes they have spare sets lying around.
link to brunswick
http://www.brunswickdiesels.com.au/new/stories.php
A lot of people on this forum went with a body lift, and they regretted it, and they ended up pulling it back out. I am the same, mine will be coming out.
Its also worth noting, that a lot of people do no body lift right, and have mounts made up, which tie back the body, which offers far more support between the body and the chassie. We have done this on a rover, and its never moved, and or had the need to be tightened down again. My patrol, well, the rear mounts come loose all the time, as the rubbers are flogged out, and the bolts are worn. And its down hill from there, the body leavers on all the mounts, and as soon as one comes loose, it starts levering the mounts around, causing fire walls to crack, doors to catch on opening, rubber to flog out, bolts to bend, guards to crack...
A friend of mine, did send his cat to track on, and had all his body mounts lifted up off the chassie, so they would never crack again....
Search is your friend, and porn threw the members sections..
this is what you need to do when searching;
"Body lift" - in that exact form, and that goes for anything you want to search for, just use the "-"
The above info is open to correction, so if i have missed/stuffed anything up, fell free to correct it
cheers
jimmy
We got that travel from a 2" body lift and spring lift, long shocks, and lots of cutting, on a disco, which comes std with 14" wheels...... sitting on 36's there as well....
stick in the three inch springs, space your front controls arms, and then chop the guards out, and see how you go from there. Most case's, you only catch the back of the guard on the front, however on the rear, and if your truck is flexing well in the rear, you will hit the front of the rear wheel arch. We chopped the guards on our rover, and because the suspension walks and travels really really well, we ended up limiting its up travel, and in the below picture, it may of saved the car from going right over.... Flex is not important to me, i just like a firm set up off rd, and spend more time driving the tracks, than looking at how much my suspension goes up and down...
If the lift sag's, and isnt doing what you want, hit up the body lift. Only thing you need to watch out for is the brake lines between the body and chassie, you will need to bend those down, and whatch what the steering does. Also, radiator shroud will need to be adjusted (nissan run hot in the hill's, so cooling is very important in maintaining). Slow and steady is best, and you will have no problems. Remember to lift you bars as well, as they look ghetto racing when they have not been lifted...
Gearing will be okay, just be ready to loose low second on some of the steep stuff, and in the heavy mud. 1st will become your new best friend, and i don't know about you, but i use second a lot, however i have a bit of power to throw around hehe, so i just over ride the above situations...
Drop the ratios to 4.6's and you will be laughing, it will power 35's, 36's and dirty sevens all day, everyday. You can get 4.6's out of the 2.8 wagons, ebay, and outers, but they will cost you, as they seam to be wanted by many peeps.... Give Brunswick diesels a call in WA, as they convert a lot of patrols with the chev, and they change the gearing around to suit, and sometimes they have spare sets lying around.
link to brunswick
http://www.brunswickdiesels.com.au/new/stories.php
A lot of people on this forum went with a body lift, and they regretted it, and they ended up pulling it back out. I am the same, mine will be coming out.
Its also worth noting, that a lot of people do no body lift right, and have mounts made up, which tie back the body, which offers far more support between the body and the chassie. We have done this on a rover, and its never moved, and or had the need to be tightened down again. My patrol, well, the rear mounts come loose all the time, as the rubbers are flogged out, and the bolts are worn. And its down hill from there, the body leavers on all the mounts, and as soon as one comes loose, it starts levering the mounts around, causing fire walls to crack, doors to catch on opening, rubber to flog out, bolts to bend, guards to crack...
A friend of mine, did send his cat to track on, and had all his body mounts lifted up off the chassie, so they would never crack again....
Search is your friend, and porn threw the members sections..
this is what you need to do when searching;
"Body lift" - in that exact form, and that goes for anything you want to search for, just use the "-"
The above info is open to correction, so if i have missed/stuffed anything up, fell free to correct it
cheers
jimmy
We got that travel from a 2" body lift and spring lift, long shocks, and lots of cutting, on a disco, which comes std with 14" wheels...... sitting on 36's there as well....
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
It would also pay to mention that wheel size, wheel offset, and tyre width also come into play when it comes to rubbing.
I have 35x10.5R15 on 15x8 with -22 offset, "roughly" 4 inch suspension lift (Procomp springs and shocks), adjustable panhards and superior drop boxes. I can get full compression and drop without any rubbing on my guards. The only places the tyres hit were the factory front mud flaps (now gone), and the front of the rear factory flares (tyres have rubbed their own clearance now).
I have 35x10.5R15 on 15x8 with -22 offset, "roughly" 4 inch suspension lift (Procomp springs and shocks), adjustable panhards and superior drop boxes. I can get full compression and drop without any rubbing on my guards. The only places the tyres hit were the factory front mud flaps (now gone), and the front of the rear factory flares (tyres have rubbed their own clearance now).
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