Well, my advise
stick in the three inch springs, space your front controls arms, and then chop the guards out, and see how you go from there. Most case's, you only catch the back of the guard on the front, however on the rear, and if your truck is flexing well in the rear, you will hit the front of the rear wheel arch. We chopped the guards on our rover, and because the suspension walks and travels really really well, we ended up limiting its up travel, and in the below picture, it may of saved the car from going right over.... Flex is not important to me, i just like a firm set up off rd, and spend more time driving the tracks, than looking at how much my suspension goes up and down...
If the lift sag's, and isnt doing what you want, hit up the body lift. Only thing you need to watch out for is the brake lines between the body and chassie, you will need to bend those down, and whatch what the steering does. Also, radiator shroud will need to be adjusted (nissan run hot in the hill's, so cooling is very important in maintaining). Slow and steady is best, and you will have no problems. Remember to lift you bars as well, as they look ghetto racing when they have not been lifted...
Gearing will be okay, just be ready to loose low second on some of the steep stuff, and in the heavy mud. 1st will become your new best friend, and i don't know about you, but i use second a lot, however i have a bit of power to throw around hehe, so i just over ride the above situations...
Drop the ratios to 4.6's and you will be laughing, it will power 35's, 36's and dirty sevens all day, everyday. You can get 4.6's out of the 2.8 wagons, ebay, and outers, but they will cost you, as they seam to be wanted by many peeps.... Give Brunswick diesels a call in WA, as they convert a lot of patrols with the chev, and they change the gearing around to suit, and sometimes they have spare sets lying around.
link to brunswick
http://www.brunswickdiesels.com.au/new/stories.php
A lot of people on this forum went with a body lift, and they regretted it, and they ended up pulling it back out. I am the same, mine will be coming out.
Its also worth noting, that a lot of people do no body lift right, and have mounts made up, which tie back the body, which offers far more support between the body and the chassie. We have done this on a rover, and its never moved, and or had the need to be tightened down again. My patrol, well, the rear mounts come loose all the time, as the rubbers are flogged out, and the bolts are worn. And its down hill from there, the body leavers on all the mounts, and as soon as one comes loose, it starts levering the mounts around, causing fire walls to crack, doors to catch on opening, rubber to flog out, bolts to bend, guards to crack...
A friend of mine, did send his cat to track on, and had all his body mounts lifted up off the chassie, so they would never crack again....
Search is your friend, and porn threw the members sections..
this is what you need to do when searching;
"Body lift" - in that exact form, and that goes for anything you want to search for, just use the "-"
The above info is open to correction, so if i have missed/stuffed anything up, fell free to correct it
cheers
jimmy
We got that travel from a 2" body lift and spring lift, long shocks, and lots of cutting, on a disco, which comes std with 14" wheels...... sitting on 36's there as well....
