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Alloy vs Polly body lift blocks
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Alloy vs Polly body lift blocks
Hey all,
i have had a look through the search engine and couldnt find anything to see this debate has been had before.
I was chatting to someone over the weekend who swears that alloy body blocks will go through the floor if installed?
Therefore i purchased some pollys.
Now with all this talk of potentially new laws in Sydney i thought i will need to get my truck engineered in the next few months and was told (unofficially not from an engineer) that poly blocks will not pass engineers cert due to the fact that they can compress. Anyone else heard that? i know most our guys run poly blocks
would love to hear some views and experiences anyone has had.
cheers
i have had a look through the search engine and couldnt find anything to see this debate has been had before.
I was chatting to someone over the weekend who swears that alloy body blocks will go through the floor if installed?
Therefore i purchased some pollys.
Now with all this talk of potentially new laws in Sydney i thought i will need to get my truck engineered in the next few months and was told (unofficially not from an engineer) that poly blocks will not pass engineers cert due to the fact that they can compress. Anyone else heard that? i know most our guys run poly blocks
would love to hear some views and experiences anyone has had.
cheers
The misconception about poly blocks steams from years ago when people were using nylon not designed for the application. People say polyurethane and they immediately think of the soft compounds used for bushes however there are many different grades. The grade I use can withstand 20 tonnes, now if you can apply that sort of load over the area of one block in a vehicle you are doing well.
With my blocks the original body rubber is retained therefore running a hard block is acceptable. Any small amount of deflection in the block is nothing in comparasion with the factory rubber.
Where most engineers get confused with the ADR's is that they state that suspension raising/lowering blocks must be metallic, but this is in reference to blocks placed between the leafs and the diff perches.
With my blocks the original body rubber is retained therefore running a hard block is acceptable. Any small amount of deflection in the block is nothing in comparasion with the factory rubber.
Where most engineers get confused with the ADR's is that they state that suspension raising/lowering blocks must be metallic, but this is in reference to blocks placed between the leafs and the diff perches.
;)
i've got a GQ lwb patrol and im just fixing mine now cause the rear mounts have torn the floor out. i've got 2" alloy blocks. if your gunna fit them make sure you put a big washer on the top of the bolt head to spread the weight. whoever it was that fitted the ones i have just put the bolt straight throught the floor and it has just torn both layers of the floor right out.
polly
I've allways used polly blocks, have done for years and probably 6 4WD's never had a problem.
Remember some days your the pigeon and other days your the statue
For a weekend warrior lifting the body allows larger tyres while minimising the raising of the vehicles COG.lump_a_charcoal wrote:We are talking daily drivers bloke... When done right, BLs are fine.SIM79 wrote:The best formula is not use a body lifts. Comp trucks don't use them for a reason.shortyq wrote:i think youll find the best formula for blocks is
I learnt my leason the hard way and now only lift the suspension.
Can't understand why anyone would particularly be against them, unless you drive a GQ in which case you will probably punch through the body at the rear, but this a GQ issue.
Cheers
Mine was a daily driver and it was installed by a major 4x4 shop.lump_a_charcoal wrote:We are talking daily drivers bloke... When done right, BLs are fine.SIM79 wrote:The best formula is not use a body lifts. Comp trucks don't use them for a reason.shortyq wrote:i think youll find the best formula for blocks is
I learnt my leason the hard way and now only lift the suspension.
Plenty of GQ's crack their floors/mounts etc without body lifts. I stuck my head under Les Siviour's class 7 off road race patrol many years ago and the rear body mount was broken off the chassis (This was a newish car at this point) and I was cruising down the eastern fwy in Melbourne the other day beside a Maverick that obviously had broken the rear body mounts in a big way - the body and the rear bumper were moving at very, very different rates.
As has been said, that's a design issue and plagues cars without body lifts. I'm sure a BL makes it worse though.
I've been BLing sierras for many years (over 10 years) and they never give trouble.
SIM79 - your also missing a point about the use of a BL. ( I assume you are referring to winch challenge/ outback challenge type cars) They run small tyres and high speeds and need lots of compression travel. That's completely the opposite of the way I'll set a car up - with very limited compression travel, (often only 25mm or so) larger tyres relative to car size than a comp car, and the lowest possible centre of gravity.
A car with the BL will have a lower COG than a car of the same height with all suspension lift. That's important to me.
Steve.
As has been said, that's a design issue and plagues cars without body lifts. I'm sure a BL makes it worse though.
I've been BLing sierras for many years (over 10 years) and they never give trouble.
SIM79 - your also missing a point about the use of a BL. ( I assume you are referring to winch challenge/ outback challenge type cars) They run small tyres and high speeds and need lots of compression travel. That's completely the opposite of the way I'll set a car up - with very limited compression travel, (often only 25mm or so) larger tyres relative to car size than a comp car, and the lowest possible centre of gravity.
A car with the BL will have a lower COG than a car of the same height with all suspension lift. That's important to me.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
ummmmm.....i hope you're just trying to stir some shite...............Rockmonsta wrote: stacked two together for each mount.
lwb 1.6efi,4sp auto,f&r airlockers,dual t/cases.custom coils.builder of ROAD LEGAL custom suzukis...and other stuff.
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
CAD modelling-TECH drawings-DXF preparation.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php
joeblow wrote:ummmmm.....i hope you're just trying to stir some shite...............Rockmonsta wrote: stacked two together for each mount.
What! How can it go wrong the hole saw makes its own centre hole, you know, they have a drill bit in the middle. 2x 3" diameter discs 25mm thick together make 50mm or 2". Stick a big long grade 8 10mm bolt through the lot. Whats the problem????
I'm very curious about your concerns also, I didn't have a problem with them, ever. Being 3" in diameter they never punched through the floor, it was in a GQ swb by the way.Struth wrote:You have so far failed to explain your concerns with the method, so haven't really contributed as much as you seem to think you have.joeblow wrote: ..........and people wonder why governments try introduce thing like VSI-50.
What are your thoughts
Might be because they arn't shiny with a brand name sticker and a 500% mark up on the price.
Anyway, I reackon poly' are fine as per the original question.
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