Page 1 of 3
Alloy vs Polly body lift blocks
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 2:12 pm
by sloth85
Hey all,
i have had a look through the search engine and couldnt find anything to see this debate has been had before.
I was chatting to someone over the weekend who swears that alloy body blocks will go through the floor if installed?
Therefore i purchased some pollys.
Now with all this talk of potentially new laws in Sydney i thought i will need to get my truck engineered in the next few months and was told (unofficially not from an engineer) that poly blocks will not pass engineers cert due to the fact that they can compress. Anyone else heard that? i know most our guys run poly blocks
would love to hear some views and experiences anyone has had.
cheers
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 2:46 pm
by phippsy
don't know about laws changing, but poly blocks should have crush tubes in them
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 3:22 pm
by joeblow
never seen ally go through the floor.
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 4:35 pm
by Josh n Kat
yeah i've gotta admit i've never heard of alloy ones going thru a floor before either.
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 4:41 pm
by SIM79
2 of my 6 polly mounts ripped out of the floor driving on corrigations.
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 4:53 pm
by Struth
My 50mm poly mounts have done a fantastic job for 2.5 years now.
But I beleive that an engineer will want to see ali blocks, mainly because they don't understand or are able to identify what type of plastic has been used.
Ali is pretty cehap for the amount you will need as well.
Cheers
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 5:29 pm
by just cruizin'
The misconception about poly blocks steams from years ago when people were using nylon not designed for the application. People say polyurethane and they immediately think of the soft compounds used for bushes however there are many different grades. The grade I use can withstand 20 tonnes, now if you can apply that sort of load over the area of one block in a vehicle you are doing well.
With my blocks the original body rubber is retained therefore running a hard block is acceptable. Any small amount of deflection in the block is nothing in comparasion with the factory rubber.
Where most engineers get confused with the ADR's is that they state that suspension raising/lowering blocks must be metallic, but this is in reference to blocks placed between the leafs and the diff perches.
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 7:49 pm
by antpoo69
i've got a GQ lwb patrol and im just fixing mine now cause the rear mounts have torn the floor out. i've got 2" alloy blocks. if your gunna fit them make sure you put a big washer on the top of the bolt head to spread the weight. whoever it was that fitted the ones i have just put the bolt straight throught the floor and it has just torn both layers of the floor right out.
polly
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 7:56 pm
by DR Frankenstine
I've allways used polly blocks, have done for years and probably 6 4WD's never had a problem.
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 11:07 pm
by Gwagensteve
I can't comment on other states, but it's alloy or steel only in Victoria.
Steve.
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 11:29 pm
by -Scott-
Go larger diameter if you can fit it. Do the sums on pressure for 50mm diameter vs 65mm diameter blocks, and the difference is significant. I've seen a Paj with 50mm blocks tear the floor. Mine, with 65mm alloy blocks, is still fine after about 6 years.
Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 12:24 am
by shortyq
i think youll find the best formula for blocks is
for them to be tapered
factory diam on the base
tapered to specifics on top!
Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 1:10 pm
by sloth85
this is great seems like there are plenty of wide spread experiences! And that some of the rumours are true that they have come through the body.
keep the comments coming very interesting...
cheers
Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 3:47 pm
by SIM79
shortyq wrote:i think youll find the best formula for blocks is
The best formula is not use a body lifts. Comp trucks don't use them for a reason.
I learnt my leason the hard way and now only lift the suspension.
Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 4:46 pm
by lump_a_charcoal
SIM79 wrote:shortyq wrote:i think youll find the best formula for blocks is
The best formula is not use a body lifts. Comp trucks don't use them for a reason.
I learnt my leason the hard way and now only lift the suspension.
We are talking daily drivers bloke... When done right, BLs are fine.
Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 4:53 pm
by bogged
SIM79 wrote:shortyq wrote:i think youll find the best formula for blocks is
The best formula is not use a body lifts. Comp trucks don't use them for a reason.
I learnt my leason the hard way and now only lift the suspension.
x eleventyteenski.
Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 4:58 pm
by Struth
lump_a_charcoal wrote:SIM79 wrote:shortyq wrote:i think youll find the best formula for blocks is
The best formula is not use a body lifts. Comp trucks don't use them for a reason.
I learnt my leason the hard way and now only lift the suspension.
We are talking daily drivers bloke... When done right, BLs are fine.
For a weekend warrior lifting the body allows larger tyres while minimising the raising of the vehicles COG.
Can't understand why anyone would particularly be against them, unless you drive a GQ in which case you will probably punch through the body at the rear, but this a GQ issue.
Cheers
Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 5:31 pm
by SIM79
lump_a_charcoal wrote:SIM79 wrote:shortyq wrote:i think youll find the best formula for blocks is
The best formula is not use a body lifts. Comp trucks don't use them for a reason.
I learnt my leason the hard way and now only lift the suspension.
We are talking daily drivers bloke... When done right, BLs are fine.
Mine was a daily driver and it was installed by a major 4x4 shop.
Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 6:10 pm
by shortyq
shit happens,there is obviously a structural issue
at that point!
that 4x4 shop are slack!
got fotos of this vehicle?
Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:02 pm
by Gwagensteve
Plenty of GQ's crack their floors/mounts etc without body lifts. I stuck my head under Les Siviour's class 7 off road race patrol many years ago and the rear body mount was broken off the chassis (This was a newish car at this point) and I was cruising down the eastern fwy in Melbourne the other day beside a Maverick that obviously had broken the rear body mounts in a big way - the body and the rear bumper were moving at very, very different rates.
As has been said, that's a design issue and plagues cars without body lifts. I'm sure a BL makes it worse though.
I've been BLing sierras for many years (over 10 years) and they never give trouble.
SIM79 - your also missing a point about the use of a BL. ( I assume you are referring to winch challenge/ outback challenge type cars) They run small tyres and high speeds and need lots of compression travel. That's completely the opposite of the way I'll set a car up - with very limited compression travel, (often only 25mm or so) larger tyres relative to car size than a comp car, and the lowest possible centre of gravity.
A car with the BL will have a lower COG than a car of the same height with all suspension lift. That's important to me.
Steve.
Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:06 pm
by SIM79
shortyq wrote:shit happens,there is obviously a structural issue
at that point!
that 4x4 shop are slack!
got fotos of this vehicle?
No, I sold it because didn't want to spend more money on all the bar work had been modified for the body lift and I didn't want anymore issues from the body lift.
Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:20 pm
by Rockmonsta
I used poly, (polypropelene) with no dramas at all, made them all 3" diameter to give the body more to sit on. Made them myself from 25mm thick poly offcuts from an irrigation fabricator. Cut them out with a hole saw, stacked two together for each mount.
Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 8:32 pm
by Beato
My 75 cruiser passed NSW engineering with poly blocks in january this year.
Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 8:33 pm
by joeblow
Rockmonsta wrote: stacked two together for each mount.
ummmmm.....i hope you're just trying to stir some shite...............

Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 9:46 pm
by -Scott-
joeblow wrote:Rockmonsta wrote: stacked two together for each mount.
ummmmm.....i hope you're just trying to stir some shite...............

Why? Done well (big caveat) I don't see a problem. What are your thoughts?
Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 11:01 pm
by Rockmonsta
joeblow wrote:Rockmonsta wrote: stacked two together for each mount.
ummmmm.....i hope you're just trying to stir some shite...............

What! How can it go wrong the hole saw makes its own centre hole, you know, they have a drill bit in the middle. 2x 3" diameter discs 25mm thick together make 50mm or 2". Stick a big long grade 8 10mm bolt through the lot. Whats the problem????

Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 3:28 am
by shortyq
there isnt
some ppl are just anel
about what they havent seen
or heard of before!
Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 8:00 am
by joeblow

..........and people wonder why governments try introduce thing like VSI-50.
Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 8:37 am
by Struth
joeblow wrote:
..........and people wonder why governments try introduce thing like VSI-50.
You have so far failed to explain your concerns with the method, so haven't really contributed as much as you seem to think you have.
What are your thoughts

Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 9:46 am
by Rockmonsta
Struth wrote:joeblow wrote:
..........and people wonder why governments try introduce thing like VSI-50.
You have so far failed to explain your concerns with the method, so haven't really contributed as much as you seem to think you have.
What are your thoughts

I'm very curious about your concerns also, I didn't have a problem with them, ever. Being 3" in diameter they never punched through the floor, it was in a GQ swb by the way.
Might be because they arn't shiny with a brand name sticker and a 500% mark up on the price.
Anyway, I reackon poly' are fine as per the original question.