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Cruiser Window Winders
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Cruiser Window Winders
Got some new door trims made for my 75 series cruiser and now have a little problem. The sheet and foam used for the new trims is much thicker than the factory trims, so now i can't use the 75 series windows winder handles, unless I am willing to let them cut a nice big hole in my new vinyl.
Any suggestions? eg different handles that will fit or something?
Thanks
Any suggestions? eg different handles that will fit or something?
Thanks
There is a small chrome/silver c-clip that holds the winder on. You need to flick it off with a tiny screwdriver. You will have to push the door card/trim inward a little so you can see the clip between the winder and door trim. Or Go electric.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic167 ... highlight=
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic167 ... highlight=
Last edited by crozza on Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Resident Terrorist
Or use one of these:crozza wrote:There is a small chrome/silver c-clip that holds the winder on. You need to flick it off with a tiny screwdriver. You will have to push the door card/trim inward a little so you can see the clip between the winder and door trim.
Would have thought the supercheap (et al) winders would have the same depth for the winder cog as the stock winders (could be wrong). Otherwise they would stick out too far from a normal door trim? I can't see any other solution other than trying to recess the trim around the winder or cutting a big ugly hole.
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Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Location: Blue Mountains, or on a rig somewhere in bumf*ck idaho
Whem I first did my trims, I too used a foam that was too thick.
I found getting the handles on difficult but they grabbed eventually, but the problem was the circlip caught on the foam and ripped a chunk of it off
causing a pit under the foam. Second problem was the winders wore a mark on the vinyl when they were wound around and around.
There was no real cure, other than rip the vinyl and foam back off and fit a thinner foam which i got from clarke rubber. Its the same thickness as the original foam, around 5mm. Its called uphostlery foam and comes in a roll for 12 bucks or so.
Its very easy to make new door cards if you want to go down that track.
Simply buy some 3mm mdf sheet and trace youre old one onto it.
Glue the foam on and hotmelt glue gun the vinyl back on.
The trims in the previous picture were done with car liner from bunnings.
no foam needed. Just glued onto mdf and trimmed around the edges.
Anyway good luck with it all.
I found getting the handles on difficult but they grabbed eventually, but the problem was the circlip caught on the foam and ripped a chunk of it off
causing a pit under the foam. Second problem was the winders wore a mark on the vinyl when they were wound around and around.
There was no real cure, other than rip the vinyl and foam back off and fit a thinner foam which i got from clarke rubber. Its the same thickness as the original foam, around 5mm. Its called uphostlery foam and comes in a roll for 12 bucks or so.
Its very easy to make new door cards if you want to go down that track.
Simply buy some 3mm mdf sheet and trace youre old one onto it.
Glue the foam on and hotmelt glue gun the vinyl back on.
The trims in the previous picture were done with car liner from bunnings.
no foam needed. Just glued onto mdf and trimmed around the edges.
Anyway good luck with it all.
Don't know that there are any easy solutions. Never seen any long extended winders.
2 options none of which are easy - Get winder out and weld another winder shaft onto it. Remove trim and use thin foam or remove part of trim cut out neat circle of the thick foam a bit bigger than the winder arc, put some glue in then reseal trim, put a flat plate over the spot the same size as the aforementioned arc and clamp tightly or put good weight over it so when it dries you have a neat depression in the trim around the winder.
Oh and if you are going to the trouble of making new door cards don't waste your time with MFD as it's not water resistant. You can get a masonite type of board with a white backing that is quite water resistant and won't swell up to 10 times it's original size when it gets a little damp. Also less chance of the trim clips puling out if you have to take it offf a couple of times. I like to remake my backing cards if I ever have to out of 3mm aluminium sheet as long as you upholsterer is happy to be able to glue his work only and not use staples.
2 options none of which are easy - Get winder out and weld another winder shaft onto it. Remove trim and use thin foam or remove part of trim cut out neat circle of the thick foam a bit bigger than the winder arc, put some glue in then reseal trim, put a flat plate over the spot the same size as the aforementioned arc and clamp tightly or put good weight over it so when it dries you have a neat depression in the trim around the winder.
Oh and if you are going to the trouble of making new door cards don't waste your time with MFD as it's not water resistant. You can get a masonite type of board with a white backing that is quite water resistant and won't swell up to 10 times it's original size when it gets a little damp. Also less chance of the trim clips puling out if you have to take it offf a couple of times. I like to remake my backing cards if I ever have to out of 3mm aluminium sheet as long as you upholsterer is happy to be able to glue his work only and not use staples.
I have already had the trims made and they cost a bit of cash so I really don't want to fark em. I am thinking a handle that possibly has more length to the spline receiver part and then some kind of plastic washer or something that stops the winder from cutting the vinyl...but it has to look pretty
Take em back and tell them they farked up and get them to mod them so they fit properly.
Another thought on the aftermarket ones. If you can get some like the Mini ones they are 2 piece ally. They have an ally base that fits over the spline but they use a countersunk cap screw (allen head) to keep it on the shaft. You could get someone to drill and tap your shaft altough were gettign fiddly again. The actual winder handle is then bolted to the base with 3 countersunk screws again so you could get an extension spacer made up and use longer screws to bolt it all together again. I know the Mini ones might not fit but I'm using them as an example as that's all I've played with, never seen the other aftermarket ones to comment on their construction.
It would be possible to mod the originals in a similar way by welding a cut up second base piece to yours if you can get the arm off or the plastic cover on the arm (don't know your design) and then you need a small piece of painted or stainless tube to cover in the gap.
Another thought on the aftermarket ones. If you can get some like the Mini ones they are 2 piece ally. They have an ally base that fits over the spline but they use a countersunk cap screw (allen head) to keep it on the shaft. You could get someone to drill and tap your shaft altough were gettign fiddly again. The actual winder handle is then bolted to the base with 3 countersunk screws again so you could get an extension spacer made up and use longer screws to bolt it all together again. I know the Mini ones might not fit but I'm using them as an example as that's all I've played with, never seen the other aftermarket ones to comment on their construction.
It would be possible to mod the originals in a similar way by welding a cut up second base piece to yours if you can get the arm off or the plastic cover on the arm (don't know your design) and then you need a small piece of painted or stainless tube to cover in the gap.
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