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Patrol Auto or LS1 Auto - which is better?

General Tech Talk

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Patrol Auto or LS1 Auto - which is better?

Post by Suspension Stuff »

I have a Patrol and I have an LS1 and I am trying to decide whether I should buy a Patrol auto or an LS1 Auto.

Things to take into account are:-

Price
Ease of purchase if I stuff it
Which performs better off road.

OR should I sell the LS1 and purchase a 5.0L V8 and auto? I believe the autos are a little different in the bell housing or something.

Thanks
Shane
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Post by WICKED »

Bartso had a BUILT GQ Auto behind his 5.0k and damaged it. His new LS1 has a BUILT T700.

Take that as you will.....
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Post by GQuick »

the 4.8 auto out of the GU is a good transmission ...dunno how it'd go with an 8 though, know of a tickled one that holds fine with 400 odd kws
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Post by STIKA »

You are probably better of going and talking to someone who build performance gears boxes I have used Bob Grant in the past I know he is really good with C4's

You will need to know
What HP you are going to put through it

I would also get it manualised.

The other thing which is only my opinion is, I would probably stay away from electronic box and get an older box and get that purpose built.
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Post by killalux »

I would recomend either a built LS1 auto, or a GQ auto with a manual valvebody. Or if its not gonna be a daily driver go with a T400.

Do not try to use an electronic nissan auto behind the LS1, it will give nothing but drama's.

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Post by nottie »

Shane i would go a C4 If you arnt worried bout a 4th gear that is for on road.
They are cheep. They are cheep to build strong. They are very short. Have a good first gear ratio. Have no stuped electronics. They are everywhere. Usually bout $100/$150 from ebay. Make shore you get one where the bellhousing bolts are diffrent to the oil pump bolts. They have a finer input shaft spline also. And if i remember right are a pan fill case ( or could be a case fill)

Also the length you save you are able to push the motor back and get a better balance weight of the truck.
You can get adapters everywhere for them. Couple this to an ATLAS (expensive but the best) and some built dana 60s (not alot more then building up nissan diffs) and you got the perfect strong as fark driveline that will go from truck to truck. Or Buggy for that matter. :lol:
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Post by Suspension Stuff »

Well I wasn't expecting that. I will definitely look into the C4, I noticed that Corvette's run them, this build is feeling more and more like a sports car. Overdrive is over rated even for the road. Any idea where I could find one, I didn't see any on ebay.

Also, how much are you saying is expensive for the Atlas transfer case. I can remember the boys on King of the Hammers say that had a 500 horse power LS1 and an Atlas transfercase so it must be good. I think they said they had a Turbo 350 auto or something like that. Can you get them 2nd hand in Aus. I noticed Marks Adapters have the Atlas, any idea how much they have them for?

Thanks Heaps.

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Post by gqpete »

GQuick wrote:the 4.8 auto out of the GU is a good transmission ...dunno how it'd go with an 8 though, know of a tickled one that holds fine with 400 odd kws
no they don't. been tried and after lots of $$$ and headaches the 4 speed gu auto went in.
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Post by nottie »

Ok the c4 you see with a corvette isnt the auto they run it is a model of vette.

Here is a built one but better to get an old one and have it built to suit but look at the pic and imagine it with no extention housing on the back
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/V8-clevo-C4-full ... 27ae31551d

Another but for a windsor. Doesnt matter as youd be changing the bell housing
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/C4-Auto-Trans-Re ... 2304ac5030

If you look at this one it has a bellhousing on it to bolt to a ca18 sr20 nissan 4pot. It shows how easy it is to adapt a bellhousing to the auto.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/C4-GEARBOX-WITH- ... 4a9d8ee4fa

There isnt any cheep ones on there at the moment. Except for the Windsor one. If you keep checking you will find them.
I have bought 3 off there and not payed more then $120.00 for a complete one that aparently have been runners. ( not game enough to take that chance.)
An Atlass can be had straight from Advanced adapters in the states ( they are the manufacturer of them )
http://www.advanceadapters.com/

Or Check in the classifieds on Pirate and you may be able to convince a merican to send it to you.
They do come up in Oz from time to time for about $3000/4500.
Bru and Taz have both advertized and sold theres not that long ago.
If you do everything possible to a cruiser or patrol case it wouldnt come to that but it would never be an atlas with its capabilities of any drive (front or rear)

Like i said though Its a drive train that you could keep and just keep moving along from what ever you want to run.
I would go a Mog hybrid though but you want to street it by the sounds of it. So i gather portels are out
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Post by bogged »

GU 4.5 auto is what you want.. Top box... I happen to have one here, we can barter :)
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Post by Suspension Stuff »

http://xfalcon.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21561 Nottie are you talking about the C4(C4 case fill) or C10(C4 pan fill)

Is there are cheaper option for now with the tranfer case?

Cheers
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Post by zackde »

I would run the LS1 auto which is the 4L60e, if you can get one get a 4L65E but be prepared to spend some money beefing it up. I would use the GM auto because getting another model auto to talk to the GM stuff is a huge headache.
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Post by grinch2 »

what are you planing with the truck? unless your doing tuff truck or something, for cost and simplicity i would run the commodore auto and std transfer case. marks make adaptors to bolt the whole lot straight in.
i run this setup in mine and never had a problem. i had my auto rebuilt using 4L65E internals, that cost me about $900 incl changing over the output shaft. they are a very nice auto on the road and another huge advantage is you can get all the shift point and line preasures tuned by anyone who ls1 tuning software.

i wouldn't go near the nissan auto, i just brought a 4.5 auto gu, i would have to say it is the worst auto i have ever driven, it is gutless on the road and on the beach it is absouloutly hopeless.
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Post by bru21 »

You need to spend the money to make any auto worth using. about 5k will get you a goodish comp auto, with the better ORR cars generally about 15+k for a th400 and still many blow them and DNF baja

Nissan have weak input shafts, others have weak housings and weak box to transfer interfaces.

Pure comp I would go Th400 with full bellhousing (machine the standard one off and fit a full housing.

http://www.campbellenterprises.com/auto ... ousing.htm

Culhane makes a nice rear housing then use an atlas, or go a marks kit and make a sub frame to hold the 2 together as well.

http://culhaneracingtransmission.com/index.htm

nothing sucks more than a DNF and dear rebuilds, this will be more apparant in the comp style you are setting up where the car is 10hrs non stop.
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Post by bogged »

grinch2 wrote: i wouldn't go near the nissan auto, i just brought a 4.5 auto gu, i would have to say it is the worst auto i have ever driven, it is gutless on the road and on the beach it is absouloutly hopeless.
Correct - which is why the auto is good to put in other applications.
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Post by chunks »

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part ... 400&page=1

What do you get for 15k worth of TH400? Didn't think it would be possible to spend that much money on one. I have been told they are good for 600hp with minor mods.
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stuff

Post by fumduk3 »

www.automatictransmission.com.au



some good reading. click on 'extreme' then C4/6/T700/toyotaA442/nissan box etc
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Post by BEEPJEEP »

nottie wrote:Shane i would go a C4 If you arnt worried bout a 4th gear that is for on road.
They are cheep. They are cheep to build strong. They are very short. Have a good first gear ratio. Have no stuped electronics. They are everywhere. Usually bout $100/$150 from ebay. Make shore you get one where the bellhousing bolts are diffrent to the oil pump bolts. They have a finer input shaft spline also. And if i remember right are a pan fill case ( or could be a case fill)

Also the length you save you are able to push the motor back and get a better balance weight of the truck.
You can get adapters everywhere for them. Couple this to an ATLAS (expensive but the best) and some built dana 60s (not alot more then building up nissan diffs) and you got the perfect strong as fark driveline that will go from truck to truck. Or Buggy for that matter. :lol:
The C4 auto box your talking about is the Cleveland v8 box they run a bigger convertor, as the box that Windsor uses have a smaller bellhousing and the same bolts bolt up the oil pump and the bellhousing together cause they run smaller convertor, both box can be pan filled this is where the filler tube screws into the pan, as i have two still, BUT i agree this is a good auto. Why not use a T400 behind a LS1? both turbo bolt pattern are they?
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Post by BEEPJEEP »

"Gee the older i get the smarter i was"
Look into this one Shane if you want to use LS1, but hey this is from memorey only---- The auto boxes T350/T400/T700 will bolt up to LS1 BUT! the LS1 has an extra bolt hole it's the one on top centre. Box bolts up but you'll need to space your flex plate back towards the box!! this spacer i beleive is still sold by GM PERFORMANCE, and also EAGLE. OR just buy an adopt from DELLOW'S from about $650 or so. If you only doing comp work then go for T400, if you going to drive it on road then go for T700 make sure you get the extra covette clutch plates added , but hey talk to your Automatic specialist FIRST.If your going to use an early chev say A 350/400/454 and still want to use T700 for the overdrive incase you want to street regs then you'll need whats called a painless wiring kit to make your lock converter lock so it dont slip and over heat. OK too much info already ! my bad.
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Post by Suspension Stuff »

So the 5 Litre V8's bolt up differently to the 5.7Litre LS1. If this is the case, it sounds like the auto it came out with is the only one to bolt straight up. Is this true?
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Post by hammey »

pm modified toy, the guys name is Russell and you wouldn't meet a nicer person.
I'm sure either Russell or Rod will be able to help you out, they run an automotive transmission shop and play in the winch challenge seen.

cheers smitty :D
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Post by Suspension Stuff »

hammey wrote:pm modified toy, the guys name is Russell and you wouldn't meet a nicer person.
I'm sure either Russell or Rod will be able to help you out, they run an automotive transmission shop and play in the winch challenge seen.

cheers smitty :D
I have sent a pm to modified toy. Cheers.
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Post by BEEPJEEP »

Suspension Stuff wrote:So the 5 Litre V8's bolt up differently to the 5.7Litre LS1. If this is the case, it sounds like the auto it came out with is the only one to bolt straight up. Is this true?
Hi. when you say 5L is different bolt up, well early 5L red carby's is different except for the WB statesman 5L carby blue engine are a chev pattern, then all 5L v8 from VN onwards are chev bolt patterns. Well ok so are the first 5L EFI WALKY'S in vl twin throttle body's are chev bolts.
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Post by Suspension Stuff »

It doesn't sound like there is a perfect solution on a budget.

I plan to purchase a 4L60E T700 Auto because this is what bolts straight up.

I will just purchase an adapter kit from mark's for the transfer case and when I get rich change over to the Atlas.

If I got an Atlas I would probably have to modify driveshafts which is a problem if you need a replacement in a hurry.
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Post by zackde »

Suspension Stuff wrote:It doesn't sound like there is a perfect solution on a budget.

I plan to purchase a 4L60E T700 Auto because this is what bolts straight up.

I will just purchase an adapter kit from mark's for the transfer case and when I get rich change over to the Atlas.

If I got an Atlas I would probably have to modify driveshafts which is a problem if you need a replacement in a hurry.
Something to note is the adapter kit for the GM auto to Nissan transfer requires the Auto output shaft to be changed, so the box will have to be stripped. Get one that requires a rebuild.
Cheers Zack
Last edited by zackde on Sun Jan 10, 2010 12:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Suspension Stuff »

zackde wrote:
Suspension Stuff wrote:It doesn't sound like there is a perfect solution on a budget.

I plan to purchase a 4L60E T700 Auto because this is what bolts straight up.

I will just purchase an adapter kit from mark's for the transfer case and when I get rich change over to the Atlas.

If I got an Atlas I would probably have to modify driveshafts which is a problem if you need a replacement in a hurry.
Something to note is the adapter kit for the GM auto to Nisssan transfer requires the Auto output shaft to be changed, so the box will have to be stripped.
Cheers Zack
Is there a practical transfer case that will just bolt up? Probably not with outputs to suit the Nissan drive shafts.
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Post by BEEPJEEP »

zackde wrote:
Suspension Stuff wrote:It doesn't sound like there is a perfect solution on a budget.

I plan to purchase a 4L60E T700 Auto because this is what bolts straight up.

I will just purchase an adapter kit from mark's for the transfer case and when I get rich change over to the Atlas.

If I got an Atlas I would probably have to modify driveshafts which is a problem if you need a replacement in a hurry.
Something to note is the adapter kit for the GM auto to Nissan transfer requires the Auto output shaft to be changed, so the box will have to be stripped. Get one that requires a rebuild.
Cheers Zack
Zack is correct, when to mate up two different brands such as holden box to nissan trans or whatever you'll all way's need to change the output shaft, so i would buy a nissan auto box and have it beefed up to take extra power/flogging as the T700 would also need beefing up when ever extra KW is added. Then tail shafts will remain the same length, maybe a manual vavle body might help. If you happen to sell off LS1 for a 5L make sure to get the VT 5l as they stronger, have double webbing for stenght or get the 5L stroker engine 5.7 they look just like a 5L very bullet prof, ORRRRR just buy a complete running gear from a cross 8 commodore 6L autobox/transfer they take a hidding, BUT yes i hear you too dear.
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Post by Suspension Stuff »

no matter what I do something will need adapting.
If I use a Patrol auto I would have to get it adapted to the LS1.
If I get the 4L60E with the LS1 I will have to adapt the auto for the transfer case.

Hey, does anybody know what transfer case bolts up to the 4l60e and whether it would be worth using? I am sure I would have to make some mods for the tail shafts to bolt on but this could be an easy mod.

Shane
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Post by BEEPJEEP »

Suspension Stuff wrote:no matter what I do something will need adapting.
If I use a Patrol auto I would have to get it adapted to the LS1.
If I get the 4L60E with the LS1 I will have to adapt the auto for the transfer case.

Hey, does anybody know what transfer case bolts up to the 4l60e and whether it would be worth using? I am sure I would have to make some mods for the tail shafts to bolt on but this could be an easy mod.

Shane

Yes thats correct you'll always need an adaptor somewhere, but aren't you sticking all of this is a patrol?? cause if so the autobox/tranfer bolts up in the same place an you get to use the same tailshafts. Back there you didn't want different shafts so they are easily replaced.
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Post by Suspension Stuff »

So you are saying that the easiest way to replace stuff if it breaks is to mate the LS1 to a Patrol auto with the adapter at this point.

If so, what are your thoughts about the stregth of the Patrol auto vs the strength of the 4L60E
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