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4.2 petrol injected gq patrol
4.2 petrol injected gq patrol
Hey all. Wondering if someone can help. It drives well cold temp, when warms up it wont rev above 3000rpm. I fitted 4 inch stainless snorkel. Would this effect if not dyno tuned before i drove or should computer adjust to this fuel/air mixture.
Id be checking your AFM it sounds like its goint into a limp mode.
No need to dyno tune a TB42e, there is nothing that can be done that the computer isnt already doing, anyone that tells you otherwise is ripping you off. They are a pretty basic engine that obey some fairly basic inputs not much can be tweaked exept for slight mixture adj on the AFM and base timing.
I would bet the new snorkel has just highlighted a already failing part. Disconnect the AFM and if it runs no different its knakered.
No need to dyno tune a TB42e, there is nothing that can be done that the computer isnt already doing, anyone that tells you otherwise is ripping you off. They are a pretty basic engine that obey some fairly basic inputs not much can be tweaked exept for slight mixture adj on the AFM and base timing.
I would bet the new snorkel has just highlighted a already failing part. Disconnect the AFM and if it runs no different its knakered.
GU TB45 tractor
Mine is doing the pretty much the same!
Easy way to find out is to disconnect the AFM, if I disconnect mine it runs better than when it is connected but wont rev above 3000rpm,
Nissan quoted me a new AFM $900 and is exchange!
They can shove that up their arse!
I have finally found some Used for $250 no exchange 3 month warranty!
I think it is a bargain! Its only taken me three weeks ringing everywhere in AUS
Just got to show it's running so I can sell the Engine combo for the LS2
Easy way to find out is to disconnect the AFM, if I disconnect mine it runs better than when it is connected but wont rev above 3000rpm,
Nissan quoted me a new AFM $900 and is exchange!
They can shove that up their arse!
I have finally found some Used for $250 no exchange 3 month warranty!
I think it is a bargain! Its only taken me three weeks ringing everywhere in AUS
Just got to show it's running so I can sell the Engine combo for the LS2
Dont hold back, Limiter is there for a reason!!!
sorry to hi jack the thread, but my bro in law's tb42e has the same problem, and after its warmed up from driving for a while it gets worse and starts to\ back fire a lot and not rev between gears like its got no power, what should we look at??
we have changed spark plugs to ridium ones, new leads new dizz cap and rotor button and ign coil?? any pointer to what it could be??
we have changed spark plugs to ridium ones, new leads new dizz cap and rotor button and ign coil?? any pointer to what it could be??
Opposite Lock RockVegas
mine had a similar problem, ran better with the afm disconnected.
turned out to be the fuelpump.
fuelpump was still working but not producing sufficient fuel pressure to even crack open the fuel pressure regulator.
easiest way to check if its the fuel pump is to remove the return hose at the fuel presure regulator, then turn the key to ignition and see if fuel spurts out.
does anyone know if the TB42S vehicles had an electronic lift pump in the tank?
turned out to be the fuelpump.
fuelpump was still working but not producing sufficient fuel pressure to even crack open the fuel pressure regulator.
easiest way to check if its the fuel pump is to remove the return hose at the fuel presure regulator, then turn the key to ignition and see if fuel spurts out.
does anyone know if the TB42S vehicles had an electronic lift pump in the tank?
Sounds like MAF sensor that sits on the airbox
the MAF or AFM sensor is only read after the engine starts to warm up, on cold start the computer goes into a program mode that just increases fuel to the engine and uses the temp sensor, when it gets to a set temp the ECU reads from the MAF, if its dead then it won't rev as the ECU won't know how much air to put in
the MAF or AFM sensor is only read after the engine starts to warm up, on cold start the computer goes into a program mode that just increases fuel to the engine and uses the temp sensor, when it gets to a set temp the ECU reads from the MAF, if its dead then it won't rev as the ECU won't know how much air to put in
AA's for Quitters
we now have the exhaust o2 sensor working properly, but its still a bit doey on 33's, what do ppl recommend to make them run a bit better, we are running 36's for play aswell?? going to possibly put 4.3's in the diff's when we locker it up,
but engine mod wise whats best?? individual coil packs?? what set up?? who is running what??
but engine mod wise whats best?? individual coil packs?? what set up?? who is running what??
Opposite Lock RockVegas
not exactly.... if you have the AFM pluged in it will run like shit... when you unplug in it runs rough but better and the AFM voltage gos from 5V farked to .08V so unplug it and if it does change than its fark...Brunsy wrote:Id be checking your AFM it sounds like its goint into a limp mode.
No need to dyno tune a TB42e, there is nothing that can be done that the computer isnt already doing, anyone that tells you otherwise is ripping you off. They are a pretty basic engine that obey some fairly basic inputs not much can be tweaked exept for slight mixture adj on the AFM and base timing.
I would bet the new snorkel has just highlighted a already failing part. Disconnect the AFM and if it runs no different its knakered.
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