Hey guys again. i just picked up my paj this week and am very happy with it.
i have been told on here that my car being a 2.8 td already has a factory 40mm body lift? is this true? is it just the rubber mounts between the body and chassie or do all pajeros have this?
the reason i askis i wanna machine up some 2" alloy ones.
Also i have tone the torsion bars up and it now matches the back but want to put a lift in the back and have run out of lift on my torsions how can i even it out? and whats this i hear about people removing the rear sway bar for more flex. thanks guys you have all been great help
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97 GLS Pajero lift HELP
Moderator: -Scott-
Perhaps you can tell us what you want to accomplish with the lift and how you plan on using the truck. That would make it easier to give good advice. Also whether it's a swb or a lwb.
So, if the car currently has no suspension lift but you have run out of adjustment on the torsion bars, you can re-index the torsion bars. You can search for the exact procedure on here but it's basically just pulling one end out and turning the torsion bars one "rile" before reinstalling them. To lift the rear you can either install longer springs (Patrol GQ shocks for a lwb, lwb springs for a swb) or a spring spacer.
As I understand it, all 2.8td and 3500 petrol pajeros have a factory 40mm body lift. This was done to fit the transmission. It was accomplished by moving the body mounts up on the frame during assembly, so there are no spacers. You can tell by looking at the relationship between the frame and body over the rear axle, if there is a good gap between the frame and body, your truck has the lift.
The rear sway bar limits the downwards articulation in rear. Removing it adds articulation but obviously Mitsubishi installed it for a reason, it's useful on asphalt and dirt roads. All a question of how you plan on using the truck.
In front you can gain more articulation by shaving the bumpstops on the upper wishbones and doing a ball-joint flip (both terms you can search for on the forum).
Obviously if you increase the articulation, you have to make sure your brake lines are long enough and probably fit longer shocks. If you fit longer shocks you have to make sure they don't bottom out, typically by lowering the bump stops in rear, not sure about the front. You could also move the spring mounts, in rear the shocks will tend to bind on the swingarms once you increase the articulation.
As for the body lift, you can machine up some spacers. A two inch body lift is supposedly relatively painless. You have to either lower the radiator or just remove the shroud, make the hole for the 2wd/4wd lever a bit bigger to be able to get it into 2h and a few other things. Again search is your friend, this has been covered many places, with pictures and step by step instructions. Additionally, up here at least, it's recommended to move a few body mounts up, typically the rearmost ones and the ones under the firewall. This is done by cutting them off and re-welding them higher on the frame. This counteracts the effect of the body being on "stilts". Make sure your blocks are as wide as they can be, that also helps.
Hope this helps and please tell us a bit more about your plans for the truck, what you intend to use it for and what tires you want to fit etc.
So, if the car currently has no suspension lift but you have run out of adjustment on the torsion bars, you can re-index the torsion bars. You can search for the exact procedure on here but it's basically just pulling one end out and turning the torsion bars one "rile" before reinstalling them. To lift the rear you can either install longer springs (Patrol GQ shocks for a lwb, lwb springs for a swb) or a spring spacer.
As I understand it, all 2.8td and 3500 petrol pajeros have a factory 40mm body lift. This was done to fit the transmission. It was accomplished by moving the body mounts up on the frame during assembly, so there are no spacers. You can tell by looking at the relationship between the frame and body over the rear axle, if there is a good gap between the frame and body, your truck has the lift.
The rear sway bar limits the downwards articulation in rear. Removing it adds articulation but obviously Mitsubishi installed it for a reason, it's useful on asphalt and dirt roads. All a question of how you plan on using the truck.
In front you can gain more articulation by shaving the bumpstops on the upper wishbones and doing a ball-joint flip (both terms you can search for on the forum).
Obviously if you increase the articulation, you have to make sure your brake lines are long enough and probably fit longer shocks. If you fit longer shocks you have to make sure they don't bottom out, typically by lowering the bump stops in rear, not sure about the front. You could also move the spring mounts, in rear the shocks will tend to bind on the swingarms once you increase the articulation.
As for the body lift, you can machine up some spacers. A two inch body lift is supposedly relatively painless. You have to either lower the radiator or just remove the shroud, make the hole for the 2wd/4wd lever a bit bigger to be able to get it into 2h and a few other things. Again search is your friend, this has been covered many places, with pictures and step by step instructions. Additionally, up here at least, it's recommended to move a few body mounts up, typically the rearmost ones and the ones under the firewall. This is done by cutting them off and re-welding them higher on the frame. This counteracts the effect of the body being on "stilts". Make sure your blocks are as wide as they can be, that also helps.
Hope this helps and please tell us a bit more about your plans for the truck, what you intend to use it for and what tires you want to fit etc.
Just fyi, my 1998 2.8TDI lwb NL has the factory body lift and a 40mm suspension lift, along with some minor work done to the front fenders. It easily fits the 33x12.50R15s it's currently running and would fit 35x12.50R15s. Not much lift is necessary at all to run 35s.
Before I removed the mudguards in front and did some minor cutting of the fenders, the 33s would rub a little with full lock under flex, but that could have been fixed with some work on the mudguards, no cutting necessary I believe.
Before I removed the mudguards in front and did some minor cutting of the fenders, the 33s would rub a little with full lock under flex, but that could have been fixed with some work on the mudguards, no cutting necessary I believe.
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