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Best way to get flex!
Best way to get flex!
G'day guys
Looking at selling the old cruiser and geting a mav/gq. I will be looking at going around a 6inch lift with flexy coils and super flex arms. Now to achieve the best flex out of this. Should i run no sway bars or sway bar only in rear? I will so be looking at drop out cones! Any info is good info. I want to do the suspenion on this once and get it right the first time!
Thanks Barno
Looking at selling the old cruiser and geting a mav/gq. I will be looking at going around a 6inch lift with flexy coils and super flex arms. Now to achieve the best flex out of this. Should i run no sway bars or sway bar only in rear? I will so be looking at drop out cones! Any info is good info. I want to do the suspenion on this once and get it right the first time!
Thanks Barno
1996 HZJ75RP, DTS turbo with 3inch exhaust, rear locker, MTZs, 2inch shackles, 2 inch custom packs!
flex
Hi Barno111
It is up to you if you want to run sway bar or not. I have 4-5" flexy coils don't run them. Depends on how much you drive it on road you could just put sway bar disconects on and have the best of both worlds. As for drop out cones you won't need them in the front and depending on that shocks you run you may not need them in the back ether but if you do want drop out cones I can sell you weld in one for $35 each plus postage or bolt in ones for $60 each. regards Steve
It is up to you if you want to run sway bar or not. I have 4-5" flexy coils don't run them. Depends on how much you drive it on road you could just put sway bar disconects on and have the best of both worlds. As for drop out cones you won't need them in the front and depending on that shocks you run you may not need them in the back ether but if you do want drop out cones I can sell you weld in one for $35 each plus postage or bolt in ones for $60 each. regards Steve
Thanks steve! i dont really plan on running them! I was just curious becuase in some of the big lift cruisers to get the front to flex properly they run swaybars in the back! But i more then likely wasnt going to run with them! Dur to everyone else whom i drive with, with big lift patrols dont run them. They dont really seem to have dramas on the road either. Yer how do the flexy coils go compared to normal coils? And would i really need to run drop out coils?
1996 HZJ75RP, DTS turbo with 3inch exhaust, rear locker, MTZs, 2inch shackles, 2 inch custom packs!
drop out cones
Barno111
The flexy coil are a good spring they give alot more travle. as for drop out cones it will depend on what shocks you run if you run a long travle shock and the spring comes loose you will have to put in spring retainers
you may get way with out the drop out cones but your springs will make a shitty noise as they relocate I have them in my wagon and springs move in and out of they sit with no noise. Try yiur setup out first and then get them if you think you need them.
The flexy coil are a good spring they give alot more travle. as for drop out cones it will depend on what shocks you run if you run a long travle shock and the spring comes loose you will have to put in spring retainers
you may get way with out the drop out cones but your springs will make a shitty noise as they relocate I have them in my wagon and springs move in and out of they sit with no noise. Try yiur setup out first and then get them if you think you need them.
Thanks for the replys guys! all will be taken into consideration when doing the set up! If i go with drop outs i will be running coil retainers as well! TJM75b do you run just the rear sway bar in with extended links?
Cheers Barno
Cheers Barno
1996 HZJ75RP, DTS turbo with 3inch exhaust, rear locker, MTZs, 2inch shackles, 2 inch custom packs!
i only have the rear sway bar there are no holes on the superior arms for the front bar yeah i made up some disconnects for the sway bar with every intention of disconnecting the bar off road but it was heaps better connected so i am stoked no climbing under the car in the mud to connect or disconnect the sway bar
my cents
stiffen your rear coils, that will automatically make the front "flex" better, ill explain the inverted commas later.
trolls love hard rear coils cause it makes the front chassisflex plus 'droop' the front end.
now you kill two birds with this setup (tight arse end) the five link on the back doesnt really care how tight the coils are it will still flex. we all know it does so moot point.
now the next best thing you can do is measure ya shocks properly (not lift kit shocks sold in the kit) I mean measure.
last ... fix the inadequacies of the nissan front end. Stoopid mushroom bushes ....... and also the limiting factor of the front trailing arms that locate the axle.
Superior make good quality stuff but be forewarned, none of this is legal without going through the almighty "engineer".
stiffen your rear coils, that will automatically make the front "flex" better, ill explain the inverted commas later.
trolls love hard rear coils cause it makes the front chassisflex plus 'droop' the front end.
now you kill two birds with this setup (tight arse end) the five link on the back doesnt really care how tight the coils are it will still flex. we all know it does so moot point.
now the next best thing you can do is measure ya shocks properly (not lift kit shocks sold in the kit) I mean measure.
last ... fix the inadequacies of the nissan front end. Stoopid mushroom bushes ....... and also the limiting factor of the front trailing arms that locate the axle.
Superior make good quality stuff but be forewarned, none of this is legal without going through the almighty "engineer".
We are put on this earth for one thing, and one thing only, to die. What you do in the mean time is entirely up to you!
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic52067.php
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic52067.php
Mate putting in a 6inch. dont really care if the super flex arms are illegal, cant get engineered in queensland anyway! Thanks for the advice! i was going to run H/d coils anyway due wanting rear bar plus doors and cargo barrier. Whats wrong with the mushroom bushes and how can this problem be solved! And trailing arms would be fix with super flex arms wouldnt you say??
1996 HZJ75RP, DTS turbo with 3inch exhaust, rear locker, MTZs, 2inch shackles, 2 inch custom packs!
Barno111 wrote:Mate putting in a 6inch. dont really care if the super flex arms are illegal, cant get engineered in queensland anyway! Thanks for the advice! i was going to run H/d coils anyway due wanting rear bar plus doors and cargo barrier. Whats wrong with the mushroom bushes and how can this problem be solved! And trailing arms would be fix with super flex arms wouldnt you say??
the only way to (well only way in my limited exp to deal with the stoopid nissan brain freeze) is getting a lancruiserlike front housing for the front trailing arms.... involves a U shaped saddled onto the chassis and an eyelet made to fixe the arm .......
We are put on this earth for one thing, and one thing only, to die. What you do in the mean time is entirely up to you!
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic52067.php
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic52067.php
Or run drop boxes, with standard geometry superflex arm.
Or even just drop boxes, that will help with most of the binding from the mushroom bushes and bring the front end back to ideal geometry.
Or even just drop boxes, that will help with most of the binding from the mushroom bushes and bring the front end back to ideal geometry.
2001 GU Patrol DX wagon, TD42, Air Lockers, twin spare carrier, Barrett HF, 35" Treps, high pinion rear, Staun beadlocks, 60l Engel and more!
I wanted to keep away from drop boxes though. Just dont want something hanging down 6inch on my chassis rail. I thought the super flex arms to suit the lift were droped enough to eliminate all binding on the bushes??
1996 HZJ75RP, DTS turbo with 3inch exhaust, rear locker, MTZs, 2inch shackles, 2 inch custom packs!
the only way to (well only way in my limited exp to deal with the stoopid nissan brain freeze) is getting a lancruiserlike front housing for the front trailing arms.... involves a U shaped saddled onto the chassis and an eyelet made to fixe the arm .......[/quote
this would not be legal without engineering either
this would not be legal without engineering either
Thats and ideal solution but not entirely necessary. eg: if you have your truck on a hoist and let the front diff hang down, (with proper arms) the diff should hang on the shocks at full extension, then take the shocks off and the diff should drop quite a bit further before the bushs start to bind.tim75b wrote:the only way to (well only way in my limited exp to deal with the stoopid nissan brain freeze) is getting a lancruiserlike front housing for the front trailing arms.... involves a U shaped saddled onto the chassis and an eyelet made to fixe the arm .......[/quote
this would not be legal without engineering either
WWW.TEAMDGR.COM
WWW.SUPERIORENGINEERING.COM.AU
WWW.LOCKTUP4X4.COM.AU
WWW.SUPERIORENGINEERING.COM.AU
WWW.LOCKTUP4X4.COM.AU
X2 to maximum flex from end I had to fit the rear sway bar, it handles better onroad and offroad.tim75b wrote:my car is far more balanced and flexes in the front far better wit the sway bar fitted and operational i also have a superior flex arm fitted
Nitto Mud Grapplers, Lockrite, 4.3s, Trail Ready BL, PTO, High pinion rear,Gu diff with Buds Customs armour and heaps of Superior gear, 24% Reduction .
Thanks for the replys guys! Now what if i only wanted to run a 4inch lift! how much flex would i loss?? i would still be able to run 35s. So is there much between the 6inch and 4inch?? And when getting the coils they would be all heavy duty! Dur to barwork and winch. Plus draws and rear bar and two tyres!
1996 HZJ75RP, DTS turbo with 3inch exhaust, rear locker, MTZs, 2inch shackles, 2 inch custom packs!
flex
You don't need 6" coils to get good flex you just need the right setup the higher you go the more unstable your rig will be. I have 4-5" lift and you can see if (I have posted the photos right first time Ihave posted photos My wagon has more flex that you need.[/url]http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/465 ... 92ee_s.jpg[/url]http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4011/465 ... f42c_s.jpg[/url]http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/465 ... 55a6_s.jpg[/url]
Barno, if you want it to handle good on road and flex awesome off, leave the standard arms in but with drop boxes (this can be engineered as a chassisBarno111 wrote:Mate putting in a 6inch. dont really care if the super flex arms are illegal, cant get engineered in queensland anyway!
mod in QLD). Throw the sway bars in the shed and when you want to flex it up off road, pull the passenger front radius arm bolt. It will out flex the
superior SF arms and it will out handle them on road with the bolt in. That's from first hand experience. Be sure to put the bolt back in before driving on
the road, it will want to lay over in corners alot more and it unsettles the chassis balance when braking hard.
Don't take life too seriously...it isn't permanent.
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