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Got a little over ambitious with my rollover bars, the problem is I can't make two bends on different angles close enough due to the clamping nature of my bender, even tried doing the smaller bend with the oxy, failed miserably.
Should I just leave it without the fill bend ? personally it looks like sh!t. half finished or something like that.
Or Should I make up a plate to cover it and put some go fast holes lights something in to fill between the main hoops. :o
Or come up with a different alternative, I've spent hours trying to figure it out and it's annoying the crap out of me!! :mad:
Maybe if I'd had more sleep lately....or wasn't so bloody stressed out bout other crap I could figure it out......
First thing that came to mind for me was - piss off one of the pairs of backstays, probably the middle one as it's not straight (for normal backstay building principles.) It looks like you couldn't make up your mind which hoop to build off and went for both. More steel (weight) than you need and takes up room.
Secondly, walk away from it for a few days and do something else. Fresh eyes and taking a step back does wonders sometimes.
rockcrawler31 wrote:First thing that came to mind for me was - piss off one of the pairs of backstays, probably the middle one as it's not straight (for normal backstay building principles.) It looks like you couldn't make up your mind which hoop to build off and went for both. More steel (weight) than you need and takes up room.
Secondly, walk away from it for a few days and do something else. Fresh eyes and taking a step back does wonders sometimes.
Hope this helps
Had to put the bends in the stays for the tool boxs to work. cage won't meet specs for CCDA anyway as it's not CRS or CRW.
Also, under the gun as far as time goes, going away next week hopefully
Could try sand bending. Block of one end of the tube fill with dry sand and compact. Keep topping up with sand and compacting until full then block the other end too. Heat with oxy and bend. The sand stops the pipe colapsing. With a bit of practice its possible to obtain a very nice curve.
The piece of curved pipe you have put between the two back stays looks good.
Anything is possible, it just comes down to time and money.
Ferals build www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic164570.php
Have a picture of what I want in my head.
Dual stays make up in some way for the strength lost in bending them.
Also, there's a removable hinging Tyre mount going to hang off them later.
and, it'll make it easier to add a canvass top later due to the duck tailed rear.
Have you considered making the outer fill bend so that the curve spans a smaller arc so the ends, where it welds to the hoop and rear brace, join to those parts at a greater angle?
Have you considered making the outer fill bend so that the curve spans a smaller arc so the ends, where it welds to the hoop and rear brace, join to those parts at a greater angle?
Cheers for the input guys. problem is, it's 2" tube, generally you can't bend a radius any smaller than 3x the diameter of the tube without deforming it. atm I'm using a 6.5" Radius die and it's already starting to deform a little.
That and I don't have a 6" one, though I doubt 1/2 an inch would make much difference
Bush65 wrote:Have you considered making the outer fill bend so that the curve spans a smaller arc so the ends, where it welds to the hoop and rear brace, join to those parts at a greater angle?
Cheers for the input guys. problem is, it's 2" tube, generally you can't bend a radius any smaller than 3x the diameter of the tube without deforming it. atm I'm using a 6.5" Radius die and it's already starting to deform a little.
That and I don't have a 6" one, though I doubt 1/2 an inch would make much difference
Sorry I wasn't clear. I did not mean smaller radius, but smaller arc, which is the angle through which the bend is made.
It looked to me that your issues were coming from how the bend was joining into the hoop and brace, and that was what I would consider altering.
With the bar where it originally was I had to get to get two different bends at different angles to each other.
it had to kick out, and then down, couldn't do it in the space required due to the nature of the clamping system on my bender.
Cutting and shutting two sections of pipe wouldn't work either due to the slight deformation of the pipe in the bend.
in the last picture posted above this post, see where the curved fill piece is tacked on at the rear, well get your grinder and cut your stay off about 50mm towards the rear of the car from that tack point.
now get some tube that slides into your 2"tube and slide it 100mm down the tube and weld it in there by drilling holes in the 2 inch, fitting the smaller tube then welding through the holes onto the smaller tube.
once thats done bend up another fill piece same as you have or maybe a bit different but make it so it slides onto the piece of smaller tube then jouns onto the second b pillar just as the fill piece in picture does.
this may not work 100% you might have to put a kink in the stay first to bring the top of it out so everything lines up better.
hope that helps you
Many thanks to Buds Customs, for all their ongoing support
Call Buddy on 0417 708 598 for all your custom and off the shelf parts, fabrication, and installation
just re read your last post, you need to cut and shut on straight pieces of pipe, if not just do it and get funky with your grinding and flap disks.
Many thanks to Buds Customs, for all their ongoing support
Call Buddy on 0417 708 598 for all your custom and off the shelf parts, fabrication, and installation