Im new to rovers and chasing a defender im thinking the 1999 single cab 2.5L td.
I want to lift the truck 4-6 inches, 35's, etc.
Just have a few questions?
* who in Aust, deals with aftermarket parts, kits etc? Pref Websites,
* any major isssues that need to be sorted out stright away?
* Rough price for Maxi drive lockers and axels ?
* how tough are they?? trannys etc...
Cheers, Sorry for all the questions, and if your going to reply with "Search" dont bother.
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New To Rovers, Chasing a Defender,
Moderator: Micka
Re: New To Rovers, Chasing a Defender,
1999 was the changeover point between the 300Tdi and the TD5 - both are 2.5L but one is 4cyl mech. inj. and one is 5cyl EFI.nick.fry wrote:Im new to rovers and chasing a defender im thinking the 1999 single cab 2.5L td.
I want to lift the truck 4-6 inches, 35's, etc.
Just have a few questions?
* who in Aust, deals with aftermarket parts, kits etc? Pref Websites,
* any major isssues that need to be sorted out stright away?
* Rough price for Maxi drive lockers and axels ?
* how tough are they?? trannys etc...
Cheers, Sorry for all the questions, and if your going to reply with "Search" dont bother.
T-case and rear diff is fairly bulletproof. Boxes are strong, engines OK if looked after. Tdis can have head issues if overheated and a few people have worn out bottom ends. TD5s need a few fixes to make them reasonably bulletproof (go to http://www.aulro.com/afvb" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and search for "oil pump bolt" and "oil in the loom").
Many of these issues will already have been sorted on a 1999 model.
MD lockers are sold by MR automotive at redcliffe, and the axles by hitough engineering at carrara. There are also http://www.rovertracks.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and Jack McNamara who sell lockers and axles for them.
4-6" lift is not needed. 2" is all you need for 36" wheels (and maybe a guard cut).
Most parts suppliers are in the UK, but there are a few small-time guys in OZ who make stuff. Again - have a search on http://www.aulro.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Re: New To Rovers, Chasing a Defender,
Not sure with Defenders, but about mid 99 was the change over for disco I to II, when they changed from the 300Tdi to TD5 engine. Defender may not have gotten the TD5 till a bit later. Both 300Tdi and TD5 are 2.5 litre.
4" is getting on the big side for lifting for a Defender - not needed to fit 35's. The stock front driveshaft will probably object to the angle - you will probably want a new one with landcruiser double cardan joint. You will need slotted swivel balls to correct the castor.
MR Automotive were starting to manufacture maxi-drive lockers. http://www.mrautomotive.com.au/
HT engineering are manufacturing maxi-drive axles
Jack McNamara make very good lockers for Land Rovers http://www.mcnamaradiffs.com.au/ his axles and other stuff like one piece cross shaft for centre diff are also very good.
Rovertracks are good for axles and cvs, as are Ashcroft.
All the common spring makers, Dobinson, King, etc. make springs. Billi and Koni are good shockies for rovers.
Drive line except for LT230 transfer case and rear Salisbury diff is weak.
Rear Salisbury is strong but axles are only 24 spline. Jack McNamara and Rovertracks can fix that for you.
Edit: link to Ashcroft Transmissions http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/
4" is getting on the big side for lifting for a Defender - not needed to fit 35's. The stock front driveshaft will probably object to the angle - you will probably want a new one with landcruiser double cardan joint. You will need slotted swivel balls to correct the castor.
MR Automotive were starting to manufacture maxi-drive lockers. http://www.mrautomotive.com.au/
HT engineering are manufacturing maxi-drive axles
Jack McNamara make very good lockers for Land Rovers http://www.mcnamaradiffs.com.au/ his axles and other stuff like one piece cross shaft for centre diff are also very good.
Rovertracks are good for axles and cvs, as are Ashcroft.
All the common spring makers, Dobinson, King, etc. make springs. Billi and Koni are good shockies for rovers.
Drive line except for LT230 transfer case and rear Salisbury diff is weak.
Rear Salisbury is strong but axles are only 24 spline. Jack McNamara and Rovertracks can fix that for you.
Edit: link to Ashcroft Transmissions http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/
John
Re: New To Rovers, Chasing a Defender,
Defender change over point from the Tdi to TD5 was early/mid '99.
My late '98/first registered 99 is one of the last Tdi's and has the 'K' suffix R380 (built for the TD5, stronger 'box than the Tdi 'J' suffix R380) ) and had OAT coolant and Cold Climate (green) power steering fluid too. (both TD5 fluids)
John and Ben have covered most everything and as said, no need for more than 2" lift for 35's, 255/85's (33.3") fit without rubbing (except for the radius arms on full lock) with only a small lift in the front.
Hardy Spicer stock the HD double cardan joint to to weld to the t/case end of the driveshaft when you lift a landy a bit too much. You will need the t/case output flange from a Disco II for the conversion. http://www.hardyspicer.com.au/double_cardan_2006.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Basically you don't need the same lift on a Defender for a particular tyre size as, say a GU Patrol, it already has more clearance at stock ride height.
The 300 Tdi is a bit asthmatic and while it can be tuned up a bit it you shouldn't go too far IMO for long term reliability.
I've killed big ends in mine, (appeared to be typical overload failure) although I found out recently from a switched on Land Rover mechanic that the only big end/crank failures he's seen (as opposed to big end wear that 300,000km examples typically exhibit) came from a run of VIN's, which mine happens to match so it just may be a bad batch of big end shells.
Cooling, both water and oil are a bit marginal with the wick turned up too but fine stock.
My late '98/first registered 99 is one of the last Tdi's and has the 'K' suffix R380 (built for the TD5, stronger 'box than the Tdi 'J' suffix R380) ) and had OAT coolant and Cold Climate (green) power steering fluid too. (both TD5 fluids)
John and Ben have covered most everything and as said, no need for more than 2" lift for 35's, 255/85's (33.3") fit without rubbing (except for the radius arms on full lock) with only a small lift in the front.
Hardy Spicer stock the HD double cardan joint to to weld to the t/case end of the driveshaft when you lift a landy a bit too much. You will need the t/case output flange from a Disco II for the conversion. http://www.hardyspicer.com.au/double_cardan_2006.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Basically you don't need the same lift on a Defender for a particular tyre size as, say a GU Patrol, it already has more clearance at stock ride height.
The 300 Tdi is a bit asthmatic and while it can be tuned up a bit it you shouldn't go too far IMO for long term reliability.
I've killed big ends in mine, (appeared to be typical overload failure) although I found out recently from a switched on Land Rover mechanic that the only big end/crank failures he's seen (as opposed to big end wear that 300,000km examples typically exhibit) came from a run of VIN's, which mine happens to match so it just may be a bad batch of big end shells.
Cooling, both water and oil are a bit marginal with the wick turned up too but fine stock.
300Tdi Defender 130 CC
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