clutch slipping

[70DDZ]

i have a td42 with a new clutch it has a clutch booster but after i drive for a while or let it idle for a bit the clutch slips untill i get goin and in top gear it stops and is fine again untill i do the same thing any help would be great cheers todd

[purplebus]

from a standing start does the clutch grab when the pedal comes just off the floor or does it grab when the pedal is almost right out. if the latter it may need adjusting via the adjuster under the dash or maybe the fluid has shat itself from the heat. maybe let all the fluid out refil and rebleed. good luck.also check the lower rod between the throw out fork and slave cylinder is in correctly. did you machine the flywheel.?

[70DDZ]

it has a custom flywheel on it i was told the clutch pedal is all the way out
i was also told maybe a vacume leak but i will try the new fluid

[purplebus]

i think if it has a vacum leak it is just like a brake pedal to push, very hard. mine split the little hose of the alternator and it was a painful drive from cruiser to kilcoy. there is normally a rod under the dash that is a pain to adjust but you can take it off the pedal and wind it in or out to adjust where the clutch grabs, some time if it is wound out to far the clutch will only 95% grab as it will only allow the slave cylinder to release that far. annoying job but cost free to try. hope this helps.

[70DDZ]

cheers shane

[gu town]

hopefully you've fixed it and i'm too late but....

i think if it has a vacum leak it is just like a brake pedal to push, very hard. mine split the little hose of the alternator and it was a painful drive from cruiser to kilcoy. there is normally a rod under the dash that is a pain to adjust but you can take it off the pedal and wind it in or out to adjust where the clutch grabs, some time if it is wound out to far the clutch will only 95% grab as it will only allow the slave cylinder to release that far. annoying job but cost free to try. hope this helps.

you can just take your clutch fluid reservior off (the two bolts on the front of the master cylinder) dont worry, no fluid will come out. Take it off and if you get some one to stand on the clutch pedal or jam it down with something the rod will then stick out then all you need is some pliers and a 6mm ring spanner IIRC to wind the little black bolt in the end of the rod in only one turn at a time. Be careful with the rod as any movement up, down or side to side, not in or out, may let air past the seal and make your clutch master cylinder do funny things.

A good way to tell if you need to do this is to get under the car and push your clutch fork back towards the slave cylinder. If the slave lets you do this easily (one or two finger push) the rod is set correctly and you can then maybe check your freeplay but you are pretty well buggered for cheap fixes at this point. However, if it is hard to push back refer to the previous paragraph.

I went through two clutches because of this with one thrust bearing going through the clutch fingers and another slipping sorta like yours before finding all this out..

Adjusting that rod lets a little piston under the reservior, go back far enough for the clutch fluid to return to the reservior, not leaving any pressure in the line and taking the weight off the thrust bearing AFAIK.

Hope this helps.