Hi
I'm sure its been covered on the forum before, but I cant for the life of me find where. I've tried the forum search and also going through the forum pages...
I've got a problem shifting from 3rd, 4th or 5th back down into 2nd gear. going from 1st to 2nd is no problem though.
Think it might be a design issue or something, as I remember i read something somewhere about it.
As far as i can recall, it has something to do with a nut or something, and can be remedied by replacing the Daihatsu nut with a Toyota one.
Has anyone else encountered the issue before?
I don't really have too much of an issue with it, but I would rather resolve it if I can, especially when my girlfriend drives my car, she gets freaked out about it.
Any advice?
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Rocky Gearbox problem
Moderator: Tiny
Re: Rocky Gearbox problem
If you were to replace the Daihatsu nut with a toyota nut, all that would happen is the driver would complain about wanting to upgrade to a patrol, instead of wanting to upgrade to a land cruiser 
ferog wrote:I've had worse smelling fingers though.
Re: Rocky Gearbox problem
Common issue. You have to pull the transfer case off the back of the gearbox, and tighten the nut inside the output gear sleeve.
Mud makes excellent toothpaste.
Re: Rocky Gearbox problem
so you dont need to actually replace the nut? is it a nut or a bolt?
Re: Rocky Gearbox problem
Its a 32mm nut, on the end of the output shaft. They have a locking tab that gets punched into the shaft keyway. Any time one of these nuts is loosened, or removed, they "should" be replaced. For some reason they work themselves loose, but dont fall off because the splined input into the transfer case hold them in place.
Mud makes excellent toothpaste.
Re: Rocky Gearbox problem
great i'll have a crack at fixing this soon. Does anyone have any photos relating to this procedure? or any advice or tips?
Cheers
Alex
Cheers
Alex
Re: Rocky Gearbox problem
thanks BRC, i have the same prob in my new/old gearbox.
Re: Rocky Gearbox problem
Its actually pretty easy to access.
Put the vehicle in first gear.
Drain gearbox and transfer case oil.
Undo both tailshafts from the transfer case only.
Remove transfer case lever from above.
Disconnect transfer case wiring and breather from above.
Undo the side transfer case mount and speedo cable.
Undo 8 (I think it is) 14mm bolts connecting transfer case to gearbox. Make sure you get the correct ones. There are 4 long ones, and 4 I think short ones. You want to remove the transfer case, and the cast iron (approx 3 inch long) spacer between the 2. The spacer stays on the transfer case, its actually the front face of the transfer case.
Its good to have a helper here, because the transfer case is heavy, about 20kg, if I remember correctly, and lobsided.
Pull the transfer case about 2 inches to the rear, then drop down to the ground.
You will then have exposed the rear face of the gearbox, with 5th gear visible, and the offending nut inside the splined gearbox output at the top.
Lock up the motor and gearbox somehow, a socket and long bar on the harmonic balance will do, or use a rattle gun to tighten the nut. Dont forget to use locktite, and to punch the locking tab into the shaft keyway.
Reassemble the whole lot in reverse order, using either copious quantities of sealant, or manufacture a new gasket using either the old one, or the transfer case face as a pattern.
Whole job, if your reasonably competant, should take about 3 or 4 hrs.
Put the vehicle in first gear.
Drain gearbox and transfer case oil.
Undo both tailshafts from the transfer case only.
Remove transfer case lever from above.
Disconnect transfer case wiring and breather from above.
Undo the side transfer case mount and speedo cable.
Undo 8 (I think it is) 14mm bolts connecting transfer case to gearbox. Make sure you get the correct ones. There are 4 long ones, and 4 I think short ones. You want to remove the transfer case, and the cast iron (approx 3 inch long) spacer between the 2. The spacer stays on the transfer case, its actually the front face of the transfer case.
Its good to have a helper here, because the transfer case is heavy, about 20kg, if I remember correctly, and lobsided.
Pull the transfer case about 2 inches to the rear, then drop down to the ground.
You will then have exposed the rear face of the gearbox, with 5th gear visible, and the offending nut inside the splined gearbox output at the top.
Lock up the motor and gearbox somehow, a socket and long bar on the harmonic balance will do, or use a rattle gun to tighten the nut. Dont forget to use locktite, and to punch the locking tab into the shaft keyway.
Reassemble the whole lot in reverse order, using either copious quantities of sealant, or manufacture a new gasket using either the old one, or the transfer case face as a pattern.
Whole job, if your reasonably competant, should take about 3 or 4 hrs.
Mud makes excellent toothpaste.
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