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80 rear diff

Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 3:08 pm
by 80WEPN
I own a 80 series 4.5 petrol landcruiser. I have recently put a turbo on it and am pushing 250 RWKW. Since i have done this i am constantly shearing bolts off the rear hub. Have had changed to unbrako's and also removed both dowell pins and replaced with unbrako bolts also. Can anyone please give advice on what to do as an upgrade. Was possibly thinking of GQ or GU nissan rear diff, customised using parts from both diffs being 80 series and nissan parts????? Can this be done and engeneered?????

Re: 80 rear diff

Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 3:28 pm
by RUFF
80WEPN wrote:I own a 80 series 4.5 petrol landcruiser. I have recently put a turbo on it and am pushing 250 RWKW. Since i have done this i am constantly shearing bolts off the rear hub. Have had changed to unbrako's and also removed both dowell pins and replaced with unbrako bolts also. Can anyone please give advice on what to do as an upgrade. Was possibly thinking of GQ or GU nissan rear diff, customised using parts from both diffs being 80 series and nissan parts????? Can this be done and engeneered?????

Still running stock axles?

Re: 80 rear diff

Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 6:18 pm
by 80's_delirious
redrill and tap the hubs and axle flanges for 10mm bolts and dowells

Re: 80 rear diff

Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 7:51 pm
by MUD80D
i used the dowells from the 100# cruiser and then used 45mm long socket head cap screws with a 10mm clear shank on the bolt and use a 8mm allen key and have not broken one yet running rear locked on 39" tyres also i dont use the cone washers either

Re: 80 rear diff

Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 7:13 am
by RIZZO
throw a whole new gu trol diff in, make sure ratios are right, prob solved

Re: 80 rear diff

Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 8:15 am
by hulsty
Except a GU diff wont fit and probably wont be any stronger overall.

Replace all the studs with the 100's equivalent which are 10mm VS 80 series 8mm

Re: 80 rear diff

Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 11:03 am
by 80WEPN
yes still running standed axles but they are not the prob. i have been told not to drill out to 10mm besause you dont end up with bugger all steel left on out side of hub


MUD80D

any chance of a bit more detail.

Re: 80 rear diff

Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 11:47 am
by crankycruiser
80WEPN wrote:yes still running standed axles but they are not the prob. i have been told not to drill out to 10mm besause you dont end up with bugger all steel left on out side of hub


MUD80D

any chance of a bit more detail.
It will be fine. Changed to ten mm years ago, but use socket head bolts instead of studs and have never had a problem.

Re: 80 rear diff

Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 11:50 am
by crankycruiser
Another thing, have u checked ur wheel bearings lately.? Loose bearings will snap studs no matter how good they are .

Re: 80 rear diff

Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 6:58 pm
by RUFF
80WEPN wrote:yes still running standed axles but they are not the prob. i have been told not to drill out to 10mm besause you dont end up with bugger all steel left on out side of hub


MUD80D

any chance of a bit more detail.

If your not snapping the STD axles with 8 Unbrako (Grade 12) bolts then your problem probably isnt the added HP. You could either have a bent housing or a wheel bearing issue. If it was HP related then the grade 12 bolts should hold up and the axles should twist off at the spline.

Re: 80 rear diff

Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 6:55 am
by wrinkled bits
had the same problem, i replaced the 8mm dowels with 10mm ones , and drilled two more positions ,(4 dowels) still running 8mm studs, haven't had any more problems.
running air lockers, standard 4.2 diesel ,and 35"simex .

Re: 80 rear diff

Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 9:35 am
by TacoRunner
Here is a bolt in solution, run ARP studs.

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscom ... 0b1221b201" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;