GTurbo CT26 1HD-T 24psi 201hp @ wheels 35" Tyres

[CustomTurbos]

Held for 10 seconds to get decent pyro number, pre turbo, done in 4th gear. Just Jap (like eBay) front mount intercooler.

I havent seen 200hp @ wheels on a 1HD-T before, so you could say I'm very happy

AFR's lean at 19.3:1 at the measured point and above 19 from 1900 to 3100rpm.

Owner is modifying inlet manifold (boxing it out). I will provide photos to this, all instincts tell me it will lean off the AFR's further by evening the distribution of air between the cylinders.

After this, and the fittment of a Holley red in line fuel pump (as a kind of lift pump), it will be returned and afrs will drop to 17.5:1 for a power tune. On this basis, I would expect over 165kW, probbaly 170kW.

Owner is on holiday for a month or so then will do the mods mentioned and a retune.

[TheBigBoy]

The power looks great. But, isnt 600 degree's a lil high .

[MJ80]

Thats a huge amount of boost... are you guys even slightly considering reliability in your packages/tunes ?

Can you run high boost safely as long as your EGT's are acceptable ? 600 is pretty high...

[horndog]

Stated 600 PRE turbo which is pretty good i thought. Post turbo and it would be right up there.

[TheBigBoy]

Stated 600 PRE turbo which is pretty good i thought. Post turbo and it would be right up there.

Who does their egt's post turbo?

[CustomTurbos]

The dyno tune was done by United Fuel Injection in Perth. I would say they have tuned probably over a thousand times the old 1HDT and this tune is a safe performance tune.

The owner wants power and understands the strength of these engines. Many turbos I do make massive gains when running 17psi and that's great, but not all owners want the same thing. You want an excellent 15psi turbo, I'll build you one.

You really must remember that these engines were engineered to handle 30psi on a semi continuous basis, so the limit isn't mechanical, rather it is thermal.

620deg C pre turbo when held for 10 seconds is quite acceptable (most people have post turbo thermocouples and there is at least one injection shop in Perth that says they will only tune if it's post - ????)

The key here is the whole tune. The AFR's are great, boost if dropped to 22psi would probably cause another 10nm and a few kW gain in power. The AFRs were initially so high at 28psi they weren't measurable, dropping boost picked up 13nm and a few kW, so Matt actually pulled boost out. At 28psi, EGTs were lower....so was power at the same fuel load.

[TheBigBoy]

The dyno tune was done by United Fuel Injection in Perth. I would say they have tuned probably over a thousand times the old 1HDT and this tune is a safe performance tune.

The owner wants power and understands the strength of these engines. Many turbos I do make massive gains when running 17psi and that's great, but not all owners want the same thing. You want an excellent 15psi turbo, I'll build you one.

You really must remember that these engines were engineered to handle 30psi on a semi continuous basis, so the limit isn't mechanical, rather it is thermal.

620deg C pre turbo when held for 10 seconds is quite acceptable (most people have post turbo thermocouples and there is at least one injection shop in Perth that says they will only tune if it's post - ????)

The key here is the whole tune. The AFR's are great, boost if dropped to 22psi would probably cause another 10nm and a few kW gain in power. The AFRs were initially so high at 28psi they weren't measurable, dropping boost picked up 13nm and a few kW, so Matt actually pulled boost out. At 28psi, EGTs were lower....so was power at the same fuel load.

I have been told from eveyone including alot of people from this site that if I run more than 15 my crank will be in 2 peices and stock turbo will do the dissapearing trick.

Can a stock block run 17-18psi comfortably?

[CustomTurbos]

Who told you that the engine will die?

OK, A heads up - fact not hersay or "I think" or "probably". There is alot of that around (And I say it alot when talking about things I dont know about). It seems the majority of folk think 20psi boost is potentially twice as much power or pressures internally as 10psi..... so the misconceptions start from the basics. Of course, 20psi, excluding other factors, is a 40% increase.

The exact same head, valves, crank, block and rods in the 1HDT is also used in the Yanmar and Yamaha Marinised version of this engine. In Marine form they sit on 3800rpm and up to 270hp (201kW), Peak torque is ~ 700nm and boost is just on 30psi. The 1HD-FT version is good for 230kW!!!!

They dont break cranks either.....

What is different is the pistons to lower the compression slightly and HEAPS of cooling ability and an awesome intercooler that cannot be beat on the road.

So, to run one of these to this power level on a continuous basis on the road, you would need an amazing radiator and a fantastic intercooler and probably 38psi boost (because inlet air temp will be higher, you need more air mass). And in that state of tune, it will still not be as safe as the marine version however due to engineered safety factors, is "probably", "possibly" or "maybe" ok. I plan to try it. The old TD42 could take 38psi of VNT Turbo boost and the Toyota 1HDT is far better suited for it.

Of course, in a marine environment you need the power for extended periods, but on a land vehicle , load is very transient apart from long hills. But in those cases, you pull the hill at high boost at 2000rpm where the engine is very efficient, not 3800rpm.

So will the crank break due to 30psi boost pressure? Only if it was about to fail anyway... And if people use the old 1HDT bearing failure issue as a reason not to do it, they may be well intentioned, but also misguided.

[TheBigBoy]

Right, so the factory internals (apart from pistons to lower compression) will handle over 200hp comfortably solong as its cooled properly. My engine has 180k on it. But I cant wait to rebuild it for peace of mind. Or Ill sell it and rebuild a clunker 1.

[CustomTurbos]

Right, so the factory internals (apart from pistons to lower compression) will handle over 200hp comfortably solong as its cooled properly. My engine has 180k on it. But I cant wait to rebuild it for peace of mind. Or Ill sell it and rebuild a clunker 1.

I just edited a little bit btw, but at 180,000km your engine is very young. If its been looked after it should be in it's prime. The 1HDT shouldn't need a rebuild if looked after until it gets well north of 300kkm and more realistically ~ 450kkm.

The injector pumps need to be rebuild every 150-200kkm and the injectors at the same internal (they can last longer and last 2-4 times longer than those in the 1HZ).

If your engine runs really nicely or at least you know it well, I say stick with it rather than risk an unknown... similar to relationship counselling advice.....

BTW, I never said anything about running more than 15psi on a stock turbo....must be substantially modified.....

Did you notice the km's on the engine in the dyno action photo?

[TheBigBoy]

No, you didnt mention that. Thats just the advice ive been told. My engine was rebuilt by a rited diesel fitted when it was still my mates truck. But, I HATE leaving anything to chance and would rather start with a fresh 1 so I know its done right.

[MJ80]

Stated 600 PRE turbo which is pretty good i thought. Post turbo and it would be right up there.

Who does their egt's post turbo?

The vast majority...

So this is a stock 1HDT with a FMIC 3" Zaust and which once of your turbos ? Anything else ?

I really only drive my car on the weekend so im chasing a bit of power out of it but certainly don't want to come close to risking the engine. It had a rebuild to the tune of around 8K due to blown BEB less than 80000Kms ago and dont want to go through that again.

[CustomTurbos]

Stated 600 PRE turbo which is pretty good i thought. Post turbo and it would be right up there.

Who does their egt's post turbo?

The vast majority...

So this is a stock 1HDT with a FMIC 3" Zaust and which once of your turbos ? Anything else ?

I really only drive my car on the weekend so im chasing a bit of power out of it but certainly don't want to come close to risking the engine. It had a rebuild to the tune of around 8K due to blown BEB less than 80000Kms ago and dont want to go through that again.

Totally dead stock 1HDT including pump, manual, 240kkm on clock, eBay front mount intercooler, 3" exhaust, GTurbo CT26 "Bad Boy" spec, 35" tyres. I dont know if the owner is active on the forums, Ill ask him.

Not a single other thing. I havent actually even seen the vehicle, but I think it has factory airbox too.

When you consider what people spend on Patrols to make them this powerful, Under $3k worth of kit (in total - turbo, cooler, exhaust) and its transformed it; yet still drives normally!

[MJ80]

Interesting, its a pitty my front bar limits what i can do FMIC wise will be left with TMIC options.

And the more important question of what sort of NM is this kit making and where in the rev range ?

Edit:

Correct me if im wrong but is this the 80 in question ?

http://www.offroad80s.com/marko-s-80-15 ... t6430.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If so, this is actually 1HZ powered, for whatever reason he has a direct injection sticker on the side like a factory TD but its a HZJ80. Assuming its the same car as he said hes been dealing with Customturbos and that the safe tune of 24PSI (seriously???) made 150RWKW and 500NM @ 3250RPM which is very high imo ?

[CustomTurbos]

Yes it's Markos truck, yes I've seen his black beast of a commodore.

He told me it's a 1HDT, I'm sure he knows what he's on about. Just because it might be a hzj80, doesn't mean the original engines still in there.

EDIT: I spoke with Marko, he said yes its 1HDT, he made an error in his profile - not only that, the engine is original 330,000km..... the dash was replaced, thats why it says 240,000.

As far as peak torque rpm, you can take it with a pinch of salt because like I've made the point on most occasions, it's an inertia dyno - reread what I said about that.

As an example, and I can post the dyno tomorrow, with the "Grunter" Spec on an FT engine, the dyno on shootout said peak torque around 2200, but in actual fact it was closer to 1500. Running it at 1500 and gradually loading it up resulted in smokey clutch - now that's impressive.

I did mention that when it's all tuned up with manifold change etc, I'll put it on a dyno dynamics dyne, have ramp rate set nice and slow at 070 and post the result.

[MJ80]

Confusing eh if he told you it was a 1HDT hes probably right but confused as to why he lists it in his offroad80s profile as a HZJ and people refer to his engine as a HZ.

Right cheers for clearing the torque question i had up, im only asking so much because im very interested as you know in working on my 1HDT, so cheers for answering my q's But very keen to see how this progress's and once i can sort out a decent TMIC that doesn't cost a bomb i will be speaking to you about sending a turbo my way.

And lastly just to clarify the temps you posted are pre turbo ? what are they post turbo as that's what i can relate too, my EGT probe is positioned in the dump like most.

[80's_delirious]

MJ80, I'd be changing the location of your thermocouple probe, the difference in egt's before and after turbo can differ drastically and the difference is not a constant. It's no good saying post turbo is 200degrees less, I've seen charts with pre and post turbo egt's measured on the same engine and there is no way I would be relying on post turbo temps.
You already have the probe and wiring, it would only take an hour or two to drill and tap the manifold for pre turbo probe position. People put the probe in the dump pipe because it is easier, it's a lazy option IMO.

[CustomTurbos]

Just found out the engine is original and its done, 330,000kms!!

[UGOTNUFN]

The dyno tune was done by United Fuel Injection in Perth. I would say they have tuned probably over a thousand times the old 1HDT and this tune is a safe performance tune.

The owner wants power and understands the strength of these engines. Many turbos I do make massive gains when running 17psi and that's great, but not all owners want the same thing. You want an excellent 15psi turbo, I'll build you one.

You really must remember that these engines were engineered to handle 30psi on a semi continuous basis, so the limit isn't mechanical, rather it is thermal.

620deg C pre turbo when held for 10 seconds is quite acceptable (most people have post turbo thermocouples and there is at least one injection shop in Perth that says they will only tune if it's post - ????)

The key here is the whole tune. The AFR's are great, boost if dropped to 22psi would probably cause another 10nm and a few kW gain in power. The AFRs were initially so high at 28psi they weren't measurable, dropping boost picked up 13nm and a few kW, so Matt actually pulled boost out. At 28psi, EGTs were lower....so was power at the same fuel load.

There is a lot left in this combo, due to the efficiency of the Turbo and intercooler when the manifold is done we will see higher AFR's across the range. This is really only a base tune so far, the owner is away for a while i believe and we have set it very safe for his trip.

As Graeme has said these engines are very tough in different guises and we will revisit the tune in due course with a lot to be gained.

MAtt

[MJ80]

MJ80, I'd be changing the location of your thermocouple probe, the difference in egt's before and after turbo can differ drastically and the difference is not a constant. It's no good saying post turbo is 200degrees less, I've seen charts with pre and post turbo egt's measured on the same engine and there is no way I would be relying on post turbo temps.
You already have the probe and wiring, it would only take an hour or two to drill and tap the manifold for pre turbo probe position. People put the probe in the dump pipe because it is easier, it's a lazy option IMO.

Good info mate, okay so will change it from post to pre, iv done all my learning and reading about what is and is not acceptable temp wise specifically for post turbo readings. So what would the pre turbo equivalent of around 550 deg post turbo be ?

Cheers.

[UGOTNUFN]

MJ80, I'd be changing the location of your thermocouple probe, the difference in egt's before and after turbo can differ drastically and the difference is not a constant. It's no good saying post turbo is 200degrees less, I've seen charts with pre and post turbo egt's measured on the same engine and there is no way I would be relying on post turbo temps.
You already have the probe and wiring, it would only take an hour or two to drill and tap the manifold for pre turbo probe position. People put the probe in the dump pipe because it is easier, it's a lazy option IMO.

Good info mate, okay so will change it from post to pre, iv done all my learning and reading about what is and is not acceptable temp wise specifically for post turbo readings. So what would the pre turbo equivalent of around 550 deg post turbo be ?

Cheers.

All depends on what turbo,exhaust size,manifold,wastegate etc.

Ive done a lot of testing on this and EMP's , some temp drops are upto 200 degrees while others are 150 ish.

MAtt

[flexytime]

Hi, I thought I would put my 2c in as my 80 seems to be the hot topic of conversation at the moment

The engine is the original 1HDT that was fitted to the vehicle and has travelled 330000 kms, I didn't realise that I had made a mistake and listed it as a HZJ80 on my offroad80s profile but that has been rectified now also the dash has been changed as the speedometer was faulty and that's why it's only showing 240000 kms on the dyno pic. Sorry for the confusion.

Also it is a 5 speed manual.

The engine has never had a rebuild as far as I'm aware and I have not had the injector pump or injectors overhauled since I have owned it, it has however had the big end and main bearings replaced by the previous owner.

The engine is dead stock except for a K&N filter and snorkel, 600x300x75mm bar and plate intercooler with 2.5" outlets from just jap, 2.5" stainless steel intercooler piping, 3" dump pipe into 3" mandrel bent mild steel exhaust with 1 hot dog, port matched and polished factory exhaust manifold and of course Graeme's turbo.

I am well aware of the limitations of this engine and am quite happy to pump 24+ psi through it, as Graeme stated these engines in a marinesed form (lower compression, larger injector pump, massive turbo and large heat exchanger) are able to handle 30 psi boost all day long without any dramas and are pumping out much more power and torque than I would ever hope to get out of mine.

Also my intercooler setup seems to be working quite efficiently as after we had done a power run on the dyno the pipe out of the turbo was so hot you couldn't hold your hand on it while the pipe from the intercooler to the inlet manifold was still cool.

As long as EGT's are kept in check this combo should hold together for many more kilometers of happy motoring

I am very happy with Graeme's turbo, before I put it on I had the standard turbo boosted up to 17 psi and I thought it went pretty well but the performance was nothing compared to what it is now! The new turbo spools up earlier and holds boost all the way to redline, it's also much torquier although I cant quote any previous figures as I never had it dynoed with the standard turbo.

I am heading to Tassie in it next month so when I get back I will box the inlet manifold up and fit the electric fuel pump then see what sort of numbers we can screw out of it.

Will keep everyone updated with the progress.

cheers

Marko

[TheBigBoy]

Hi, I thought I would put my 2c in as my 80 seems to be the hot topic of conversation at the moment

The engine is the original 1HDT that was fitted to the vehicle and has travelled 330000 kms, I didn't realise that I had made a mistake and listed it as a HZJ80 on my offroad80s profile but that has been rectified now also the dash has been changed as the speedometer was faulty and that's why it's only showing 240000 kms on the dyno pic. Sorry for the confusion.

Also it is a 5 speed manual.

The engine has never had a rebuild as far as I'm aware and I have not had the injector pump or injectors overhauled since I have owned it, it has however had the big end and main bearings replaced by the previous owner.

The engine is dead stock except for a K&N filter and snorkel, 600x300x75mm bar and plate intercooler with 2.5" outlets from just jap, 2.5" stainless steel intercooler piping, 3" dump pipe into 3" mandrel bent mild steel exhaust with 1 hot dog, port matched and polished factory exhaust manifold and of course Graeme's turbo.

I am well aware of the limitations of this engine and am quite happy to pump 24+ psi through it, as Graeme stated these engines in a marinesed form (lower compression, larger injector pump, massive turbo and large heat exchanger) are able to handle 30 psi boost all day long without any dramas and are pumping out much more power and torque than I would ever hope to get out of mine.

Also my intercooler setup seems to be working quite efficiently as after we had done a power run on the dyno the pipe out of the turbo was so hot you couldn't hold your hand on it while the pipe from the intercooler to the inlet manifold was still cool.

As long as EGT's are kept in check this combo should hold together for many more kilometers of happy motoring

I am very happy with Graeme's turbo, before I put it on I had the standard turbo boosted up to 17 psi and I thought it went pretty well but the performance was nothing compared to what it is now! The new turbo spools up earlier and holds boost all the way to redline, it's also much torquier although I cant quote any previous figures as I never had it dynoed with the standard turbo.

I am heading to Tassie in it next month so when I get back I will box the inlet manifold up and fit the electric fuel pump then see what sort of numbers we can screw out of it.

Will keep everyone updated with the progress.

cheers

Marko

I know Im a bit shocked. There has been sooo many people saying "no you cant" This will break and that will break. You'll have to do this and have to do that. Its good to see some real evidence and hard facts. As they are obviously just diesel w@nkers who think they know. I will build up my rig now. Before and after dyno's etc. To back up whats been stated. Ps. How much will this turbo set me back?

[MJ80]

The main concern comes from people wanting this sort of setup still wanting to not lose 7K worth of engine after 20000-50000Kms Its all well and good to run it on the dyno and everything come out fine and even all well and good for the customer to report in in 6-12 months time and still everything fine, but you dont really know how long this sort of thing is good for is where the main concern comes from. You will also find alot of the people who say " no you need this you need that, its unsustainable ect" have been there and done that, alot of these guys have been past the 12months/years and seen what happens after more time has passed and are talking from experience, although there are just as many who have NFI too.

Regardless id say that ill be going with something similar for mine as its not daily driven and really only sees weekend work/trips away, so the engines not going to be copping it everyday or even each week will closly monitor EGTs and change BEB's ect before going ahead with it.

Would be interested to hear what Northside4x4 has to say about this though as always more informed people into the discussion is always good.

[TheBigBoy]

I know of a guy who has 300bhp out his 1hdt, Cant tow anything or it will detonate. So I know what can be done. But, thats not going to last long, nor is it a stock block and internals. Im interested to see how the standard stuff holds up.

I would custom make exhaust manifold and get exhaust ports machined bigger. Change turbo, Ballance it, Intercool it and run 18psi. Already have everything else. I would do all this to get 200hp. But, im not going to if I cant get that result and it not be reliable. Trying to find a happy medium. I promised myself I wouldnt change the engine on this 1. And just make do with the best I can (its a tourer) but can never have too much power.

[Shadow]

I know of a guy who has 300bhp out his 1hdt, Cant tow anything or it will detonate. So I know what can be done. But, thats not going to last long, nor is it a stock block and internals. Im interested to see how the standard stuff holds up.

I would custom make exhaust manifold and get exhaust ports machined bigger. Change turbo, Ballance it, Intercool it and run 18psi. Already have everything else. I would do all this to get 200hp. But, im not going to if I cant get that result and it not be reliable. Trying to find a happy medium. I promised myself I wouldnt change the engine on this 1. And just make do with the best I can (its a tourer) but can never have too much power.

detonate?

[flexytime]

So what other block could you use if you don't think the stock block is up to the task?
Also why would you make a custom exhaust manifold when the standard one is doing the job?
I'm not sure if you would get 200hp out of a 1HDT at 18psi boost but I imagine if you tried to the AFR's would be through the roof and reliability would suffer.

[CustomTurbos]

Here is a photo taken in 2006 on a trip around Australia.

This is a 1990 Jap import HDJ81 VX-Limited 1HD-T

Towed a van for 31,000kms in this tune, even ran it over Andy at Diesel Tec's dyno on the way around Oz.

Currently vehicle is owned by my Uncle, has done over 100,000 since this turbo which by the way, was my first high performance turbo for a Diesel, so Im kind of proud of that one :-)

This shot was taken in 4th overdrive at ~ 100km/h while I was chasing a friend in the van way up ahead, revs around 2000rpm

Lower gauge is inlet manifold pressure, upper gauge is exhaust manifold pressure and centre gauge is pyro pre turbo in Farenheit. To convert to degrees C, subtract 32 and multiply by 5/9. so was at 650 deg C.

It was July and we were driving to Karijini National Park from Exmouth. I towed the van up to Threadbo even, we went everywhere. Not a single engine drama and never has had any engine dramas, original engine and pump.

[hulsty]

I need to get a 1HDFT those things seem to have heaps left in reserve in the fuel pumps. Any idea how close these are to maxing out the pumps?

After this, and the fittment of a Holley red in line fuel pump (as a kind of lift pump), it will be returned and afrs will drop to 17.5:1 for a power tune. On this basis, I would expect over 165kW, probbaly 170kW.

What is the purpose of the lift pump and what benfit does it provide? Its mean mentioned to me about fitting one to my car, but I have a inline pump. Only guy I know with one is on a high km 1HZ and it helps keep fuel up to it as the pump is pretty worn.

[CustomTurbos]

I need to get a 1HDFT those things seem to have heaps left in reserve in the fuel pumps. Any idea how close these are to maxing out the pumps?

After this, and the fittment of a Holley red in line fuel pump (as a kind of lift pump), it will be returned and afrs will drop to 17.5:1 for a power tune. On this basis, I would expect over 165kW, probbaly 170kW.

What is the purpose of the lift pump and what benfit does it provide? Its mean mentioned to me about fitting one to my car, but I have a inline pump. Only guy I know with one is on a high km 1HZ and it helps keep fuel up to it as the pump is pretty worn.

The 1HDT Pumps seem to flow basically the exact same, they all got the 12mm plunger

As for the lift pump, I don't really know how much difference, but for one it guarantees that no small amount of air gets in the fuel which really messes these pumps around.