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GQ 4.2 PETROL - MECHANICAL ADVICE
GQ 4.2 PETROL - MECHANICAL ADVICE
Hello all,
I have a 4.2 petrol Maverick that has developed a oil seep from the front crank shaft seal. I am tempted to try and replace it myself to avoid a large bill and was hoping someone here had done it.
What I need to know is do I have to loosen the head to remove the front cover of the engine and can the job be done with the engine still in the car (with the removal of the radiator, fan etc).
Mex
I have a 4.2 petrol Maverick that has developed a oil seep from the front crank shaft seal. I am tempted to try and replace it myself to avoid a large bill and was hoping someone here had done it.
What I need to know is do I have to loosen the head to remove the front cover of the engine and can the job be done with the engine still in the car (with the removal of the radiator, fan etc).
Mex
SWB MAVERICK
Job can be done with engine still in car.
Remove harmonic balancer and any interference in the timing case to be removed.
whilst timing case removed give it a clean and use a hammer and a tap and lightly tap the seal from behind the timing case to push it out slowly screwdrivers can be used for leverage as well.
Then use loctite gasket glue to tap it back in lighly until it it is in place.
Okay...
I believe harmonic balancer, idler pulley
and belts may have to be loosened to get to the seal. As well as radiator.
PITA to put it back together, gasket goo to put it back on and the harmonic balancer has to be torqued to nearly 320 ish nm (got a big torque wrench?) then everything back on that was in the front. Dont forget to put a skin of oil around the lip of the crankshaft seal or it'll burn out.
TO answer your question, the head doesnt need to be removed.
TOM
Remove harmonic balancer and any interference in the timing case to be removed.
whilst timing case removed give it a clean and use a hammer and a tap and lightly tap the seal from behind the timing case to push it out slowly screwdrivers can be used for leverage as well.
Then use loctite gasket glue to tap it back in lighly until it it is in place.
Okay...
I believe harmonic balancer, idler pulley
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PITA to put it back together, gasket goo to put it back on and the harmonic balancer has to be torqued to nearly 320 ish nm (got a big torque wrench?) then everything back on that was in the front. Dont forget to put a skin of oil around the lip of the crankshaft seal or it'll burn out.
TO answer your question, the head doesnt need to be removed.
TOM
I've done the same seal before...
GQ got it spot on.. You'll be fine.
GQ got it spot on.. You'll be fine.
Arguing over the internet is like running in the Special Olympics...
...Even if you win, you are still retarded!
A good friend will bail you out of jail... But a true friend, will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!"
...Even if you win, you are still retarded!
A good friend will bail you out of jail... But a true friend, will be sitting next to you saying, "Damn...that was fun!"
MEX wrote:Thanks for the advice, much appreciated. I'm breaking out the tools this weekend.
Mex
forgot.. you'll need a 3 jaw puller to remove harmonic balancer.
One thing you'll need to do.. since a cone resides inside the harmonic balancer,, it'll need to be removed b4 using the 3 jaw puller. - try shock.. put the nut back on.. and a metal block on top of the nut. and give it a sharp blow with a metal hammer to loosen the cone.
When you remove the harmonic balancer bolt,, you'll see what im talkin about.
TOM
GQ wrote:MEX wrote:Thanks for the advice, much appreciated. I'm breaking out the tools this weekend.
Mex
forgot.. you'll need a 3 jaw puller to remove harmonic balancer.
One thing you'll need to do.. since a cone resides inside the harmonic balancer,, it'll need to be removed b4 using the 3 jaw puller. - try shock.. put the nut back on.. and a metal block on top of the nut. and give it a sharp blow with a metal hammer to loosen the cone.
When you remove the harmonic balancer bolt,, you'll see what im talkin about.
TOM
Also it might be a left handed thread from memory?
Pat,
Brisbane, Australia,
JK 4door Rubicon, currently 4 Sale :(
It's a Jeep thing, I don't understand........
Brisbane, Australia,
JK 4door Rubicon, currently 4 Sale :(
It's a Jeep thing, I don't understand........
Rainbow Warrior wrote:GQ wrote:MEX wrote:Thanks for the advice, much appreciated. I'm breaking out the tools this weekend.
Mex
forgot.. you'll need a 3 jaw puller to remove harmonic balancer.
One thing you'll need to do.. since a cone resides inside the harmonic balancer,, it'll need to be removed b4 using the 3 jaw puller. - try shock.. put the nut back on.. and a metal block on top of the nut. and give it a sharp blow with a metal hammer to loosen the cone.
When you remove the harmonic balancer bolt,, you'll see what im talkin about.
TOM
Also it might be a left handed thread from memory?
Diesels were right handed thread -
I do know range rovers are left handed thread on some of their stuff.. but nissans
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Not sure about petrols thou.. maybe u could be right.. anyone care to corrobate??
TOM
GQ wrote:Rainbow Warrior wrote:Also it might be a left handed thread from memory?
Diesels were right handed thread -
I do know range rovers are left handed thread on some of their stuff.. but nissans
Not sure about petrols thou.. maybe u could be right.. anyone care to corrobate??
TOM
Yep, my memory playing up, remembering the Rangie motor, got me thinking so I just went downstairs & checked one of my spare TB42's, thread is normal right handed on that one anyway. False alarm.
Pat,
Brisbane, Australia,
JK 4door Rubicon, currently 4 Sale :(
It's a Jeep thing, I don't understand........
Brisbane, Australia,
JK 4door Rubicon, currently 4 Sale :(
It's a Jeep thing, I don't understand........
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