Bodylifts n radiators!!!!!

[A1zook]

Got the body lift in the Mav on mondy night , no major probs

But i was just wonderin whether any1 has had any temp dramas from not liftin the radiator the same as the body, I was just planin on cuttin an inch or so out of the lower rad hose to get rid of the kink at the top of the hose.

But i have realised i now have a strange noise comin from either fan or alt (n yes i did remove lower section of cowling on shroud),
upon viewin the area i was thinkin that it may well be the fan passin past the edge of the shroud cause on the passenger side it only misses by bout 3 mm( so i might trim some of this off) any 1 else experienced any thing similair,


I also modded round gear levers (steel upper plate ) but will have to modd boots or move the hole section back slightly as i cant get low range and there is slight pressure on lever in second and fourth, i dont really want to stuff about with levers ?

[Drafty]

When you work out a solution to the hose problem let us know, we have the same situation under our hood.

[Wendle]

drop the radiator if it is that close. the fans flex and move around a lot when they are running, you need a bit of space.. The ones I have helped friends with that were 2" lift didn't need any work around the levers? weird.. Maybe grab a couple of replacement levers from the wreckers & play around with bending them, rather than bend the good ones on the truck?? You need to leave the boot there, a lot of hot air gets pushed down through that tunnel, like lots & lots.. !

[big red]

on my old GQ i just elongated the mounts on the shroud and moved it about 5 to 10 mm, never touched again.
I also removed the transfer case lever and straightened it a bit and had no trouble with it.
just be carefull as there is a plastic bush at the bottom of the lever which could melt if you heat lever up too much or it can shatter if you just bend lever with a sledge hammer.
radiator was still in original position and never got any hotter than normal.
it was a NA 4.2 diesel wagon

[turps]

I was thinking of just getting some aftermarket boots from a car shop (autopro), as my GQ is an early one it required alot more ajustmeant then some of the later ones. Still haven't tidy'ed it up yet the carpet is still sitting out side on the fence.

Turps
note- to self put carpet in shed

[A1zook]

Thanx 4 the info

Havent sorted rad out yet but im in the process of gettin a replacement 1 so i will sort n fix probs then (will b soon!!) .

Thing is noise may well be a dry bearing (strange noise but didnt seem as bad on saturday arvy .

Ended up modding the gear lever boot assembly ,by moving the upper plate back bout 20mm and dunn sum trimmin of the rubber boot and also moved it back the same . Also on the lower plate (the large 1) i elongated the holes slightly 2 move back bout 5mm , i can now get low range n 2nd n 4th is much betta.


Will let u know how i go with the rad modds

cheers Dan

[JK]

What lift have you put in? I will be installing a 40mm lift in a week or so.

[A1]

Jk

James ended up goin with the trusty old age 2" lift,
Bar work next....................................................

[big red]

oh yeh, forgot about the radiator hose problem...all i did was push the hose further on the spigot [over the little raised bit] about 40mm or so until the kink was gone.

[JK]

Jk

James ended up goin with the trusty old age 2" lift,
Bar work next....................................................

OK, Did you have any probs with the fuel hoses between the body and fuel pump? I have been told that they need to be extended.

[duncan]

Ive done a couple of peoples 2 inch lifts and always left the radiator were it was no worries even on my vehicle that has a 3 1/4 inch lift never moved the rad cooling is fine I did have the lower radiator hose out let shortened and tilted to suit my tyre compressor fittment which also took out the kinck in the radiator hose.I certainly would not cut the floor and boots so that you can get low range this is what i did originaly and have regreted it as dust hotair and water can now enter the car .Take the transfer case lever of and the gearbox lever out of the top of the box easy job and cut the section out were the rubber inside steel section is then add a length of steel equivilent to the lift at the same time place on a different angle so as to clear the transmission plates far better option

[JK]

Take the transfer case lever of and the gearbox lever out of the top of the box easy job and cut the section out were the rubber inside steel section is then add a length of steel equivilent to the lift at the same time place on a different angle so as to clear the transmission plates far better option

I can't quite visualise what you are talking about here. Where do you add the length of steel you mention?

[MKPatrolGuy]

I think he means in the actual shaft of the gearstick that is inside the car, just above the pivot.

[JK]

Yikes!!! I shouldn't have to worry about that with a 40mm lift.

[MKPatrolGuy]

Yikes!!! I shouldn't have to worry about that with a 40mm lift.

We didn't when we did my mates

[A1]

Duncan

I didnt cut the boots , i modified the plate that holds them ...........the only rubba i cut was the the splash seal unit ,and and 2 compensate 4 your above mention probs ,i ctut a new rubba section and X cut it in the required place to acheive all gears and glued onto old section so i now virtually have dual dust and water covers.

Some people ive spoken to have also said that once lifted they had probs with the gear lever hittin the cig lighter ....... , i dont have this prob , and cant c how cause mine clears by heaps!!!!!

Dan