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Bumpstop length/inverse spring

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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Bumpstop length/inverse spring

Post by DeWsE »

Hey guys I noticed on the weekend when I was flexing the front that the springs are bending past flat and going convex before getting to the bump stop. Is this going to stuff the springs up or is it okay. So this brings me on to my next question if it is okay to do then I won't have to extend the bump stop as far or should I extend it so that it stops when it is totally flatened out?

At this stage I have extended it two inchs
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Post by 85zook »

sorry dude i cant see the springs from the drivers seat!!
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Re: Bumpstop length/inverse spring

Post by Barathrum »

DeWsE wrote:Hey guys I noticed on the weekend when I was flexing the front that the springs are bending past flat and going convex before getting to the bump stop. Is this going to stuff the springs up or is it okay. So this brings me on to my next question if it is okay to do then I won't have to extend the bump stop as far or should I extend it so that it stops when it is totally flatened out?

At this stage I have extended it two inchs


my stock springs would go convex if i flexed it up.

PS. if you run large enough rubber the tire will rub on the guards before the springs over compress :D
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Post by moose »

need to work out tyre clearance & shock compression !!
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Post by Gwagensteve »

The more you invert the spring, the shorter its life, and the flatter it will become.

There is a balance between travel, ride height and spring life too.

I sould figure out how low you want the car to run, maybe inverted springs are fine for the height you want to run. If you want to hold arch in the springs though, you will need to bumpstop it down to a point where the springs aren't inverting too heavily.

Most SPOA conversions run no bumpstops or bumpstops that are far too short to have decent spring life, although the articulation looks cool.

Theoretically, when you go spoa, you should lower the bumpstops the same amount that the car was lifted, so generally, about 5". This will give you the longest spring life. However, you will only have stock wheel travel, and there are other factors with a spoa that reduce spring life.
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Post by DeWsE »

Thanks I will extend to bumps so the springs don't go past flat.

It is spua with 33x12.5 mtrs. The answer to tire clearence moose is the grinder.
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Post by Gwagensteve »

Bear in mind that I reckon a little bit of inversion is not too bad - even the factory permit the springs to invert a little- maybe an inch past flat should be OK??
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Post by redzook »

DeWsE wrote:Thanks I will extend to bumps so the springs don't go past flat.

It is spua with 33x12.5 mtrs. The answer to tire clearence moose is the grinder.


why not leave the factory bump stops there should they be the right height?
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Post by Gwagensteve »

Yeah - good question Redzook, I was assuming SPOA too.
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Post by DeWsE »

redzook wrote:
DeWsE wrote:Thanks I will extend to bumps so the springs don't go past flat.

It is spua with 33x12.5 mtrs. The answer to tire clearence moose is the grinder.


why not leave the factory bump stops there should they be the right height?


Yeah I'm not to sure why but the stocks where to high. It may be from moving the stop forward to suit the ruf or the fact that the shackle has been extended two inchs which I think would be the same as the spring over issues because you are pushing the spring away from the chassis
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Post by redzook »

id only use bumpstops to keep the tires out of the body ;)

so if they aint rubbin dont worry bout it

i dont run any
my springs are still fine
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Post by DeWsE »

Well I'll run the extentions till I know how the car is offroad, then I may change it. I still have the spring clamps on as well that I remove/ straighten once I know how the car handles.
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