Anyone put GQ diffs under their RR

[auto_eng]

Has anyone here done this? Is there much difference in track?

Is it a good way to go or are you better off paying for jacmac stuff.

Just waiting for my std RR diffs to go pop.

[HSV Rangie]

Its a good option I think Lockee did it or almost did it,

the only neg I can think of is that you loose ground clearance due to the size of the nis diff.

Michael.

[Loanrangie]

I think there is too much engineering required, toy centers would be the easiest option.

[steel]

Nissan rear axles have a centered diff & Rover's are offset, problem?

[Woop]

I'm not if anyone has done this, but to get a rear Nissan diff in offset to match the RR transfer case output, you would need to use an MQ/MK housing which the H233B GQ diff centre will go into. BUT it would need to have its long-side axle housing tube extended to match the GQ housing width. You could use a cut-down GQ axleshaft in the short side, but i would think you would need to get an axle shaft custom made for the long side.. as a standard GQ axle shaft would not be long enough.

I would think UNI-joint life would be pretty short if you were to use a normal cetered GQ housing with the ofset RR Transfer case ouput.

Nick

[CRUSHU]

I would think UNI-joint life would be pretty short if you were to use a normal cetered GQ housing with the ofset RR Transfer case ouput.

Nick

why? what is the difference between a uni flexing up and down, or left to right? how far off centre is the rangie output? BTW Locky was using a NP 203 transfer.

[daddylonglegs]

You shouldn't have propshaft problems running a centred rear diff, but your ''A''frame mounting to the axle will have to be considerably higher than on an offset diff.The centred diff also makes it slightly easier to get stuck in deep mud and on deeply rutted tracks. I have heard that the GQ front end virtually plugs in to the Rangey radiusrod and spring mounts but you need a hybrid draglink and panhard rod
Bill.

[hotrod4x4]

yeh pretty simple swap over
many guys in sydney have it done

matt at trailcraft has done quite a few

[GURU]

from what I know front is more or less plug in (like Bill said)

rear abit more of a fiddle. but well worth it.

Plan to put nissans in mine soonish

[Maggot4x4]

For less than $2k drive in drive out from a guy in Newcastle (plus diffs).

Here's some photos of one done.

http://ccda.4wd.org.au/cms/modules.php?set_albumName=040404-XWCC_Booral&id=Img0555&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

http://ccda.4wd.org.au/cms/modules.php?set_albumName=040404-XWCC_Booral&id=Img0552&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

[A*D*A*M]

I've been looking at the Landcruiser 80 & 100 Series diffs. Front and rear are both offset to the Right, same as RR. I haven't had a chance to get under one yet with a Tape measure, but has anyone tried grafting on a complete set of Landcruiser diffs? It would make getting spares (and wheels for that matter) easier than the toy centre to RR housing.

Am I way off track?

[daddylonglegs]

I know that Nissan/ Landcruiser diffs are very strong and are probably the most practical option, but with the ever increasing restrictions on vehicle modifications, particularly in regard to tyre sizes, Land Rover axle assemblies are about the only ones on which you can legally run tyres up to 36 inches in diameter so a Salisbury 110/defender in the rear and a beefed up Maxidrive or Mcnamara front would be my choice.
Bill.

[auto_eng]

I had not considered the Cruiser diffs. That may be a good option. I have a 80 series here so I will measure the track and see how close it is.

I will only be running my 31's to keep it legal because it will be doing a lot of heavy towing.

[GRIMACE]

I know that Nissan/ Landcruiser diffs are very strong and are probably the most practical option, but with the ever increasing restrictions on vehicle modifications, particularly in regard to tyre sizes, Land Rover axle assemblies are about the only ones on which you can legally run tyres up to 36 inches in diameter so a Salisbury 110/defender in the rear and a beefed up Maxidrive or Mcnamara front would be my choice.
Bill.

Sorry to hijack the thread... but can you PM me bill inregards to why this is the case

Also even after reading this thread I still think the knowledgable should be opting for the toy centre conversion, such as landy_man has done, or if you have to much money get maxi's or mcnamara complete setup

[landy_man]

anthony it was not really a question of $$ more strength and available ratios...with maxi only offering 4.1:1 as a replacement ratio
the toyota centre swap would be stronger than a GQ or complete toyota swap due to the custom axles and longfield cv's and you have a huge range of ratios to play with... in the long run the 2 work out at about the same price once you have found your ARB's etc.

[GRIMACE]

are thats where I would have been caught out. I was thinking how much cheaper it is to do the whole centre conversion etc but never alloud the cost for the ARBs
I still think the way you went is best cause as you said not so much strength but definately the size and availability of ratios.
The reason I said not so much strength is cause the ratios can be weak as you go to high, But yes the toy 4.1 will be as strong as a rover 3.54, if not abit stronger.
When you are ready to sell me your axles I will kindly consider it

[Dozoor]

You shouldn't have propshaft problems running a centred rear diff, but your ''A''frame mounting to the axle will have to be considerably higher than on an offset diff.The centred diff also makes it slightly easier to get stuck in deep mud and on deeply rutted tracks. I have heard that the GQ front end virtually plugs in to the Rangey radiusrod and spring mounts but you need a hybrid draglink and panhard rod
Bill.

I agree with the angles bill , its a matter of how far the offset is out , my engineer agreed to to up to 30% and i think given the length of the shaft in the RR, the gq to RR would probly make that limit easy enough.
One thing That I wouldn,t do is use a cardan joint as there not designed for a double angle .

Interested in the tires size ? I was told 35s on GQ gear .
Anthony by what i have heard the the 4.1 toy centre would be considerably stronger , and as strong as the after market RR ones. ?

Larry.

[landy_man]

the toyota high pinion 4.1 front would be much stronger than the 4.1's available for Rovers
my 4.5's looked to have more beef in the cw&p than the 3.54 rover
and they are 30 spline...

[GRIMACE]

yes I know that is why i was comparing the 3.54 to the toys 4.1.
Ratio to ratio the Toys are stronger thats is also why I was glad to consider bying your current axle setup

[landy_man]

if you are serious about purchasing axle setup... you can pm/email me

[A*D*A*M]

So, has anyone out there tried bolting on 80/100 series Diffs? I'm thinking that this would have the double benefit of being considerably stronger than stock Rover as well as saving quite a bit of money for things like wheels, etc (retain toyota stud pattern). At a later date, I could still fit Longfield CVs & custom axles if I needed it, but stock Toyota still quite strong and readily available from wreckers. Rear diff of a land cruiser is stronger than a hilux one too. Plus, I don't have to wait around for having JACMAC stuff made up if I need spares. Probably more likely to find things like diff-locks second hand for toyota diffs than RR.

Has anyone done this before?

[landy_man]

for me it was easier to drill a few holes in the housing, send in spindles and swivels for machining, order some bits from jacmac.... and fit it all together....

doing an axle swap will involve lots more work and time...if you can do it yourself and get everything engineered..no probs.. if not you will be spending on getting all the bits welded...with the toy stuff it all looks factory... is a large initial outlay $$ wise.. but you get strength reasonably cheap and simple...if you do it yourself

[HSV Rangie]

The parts from JM are mostly off the shelf.

swapping in the toy centres allows you to use toy/arb difflocks if you so wish.

The toy swap does not require engineering as wouuld the full toy axle swap.

Lots of unnesacary work involved in trying to fit toy front axle into the rover. and you still only have the 8 inch toy R&P, CV ect.

and by using the hilux centres you get almost unlimited diff ratios at a reasonable price. the CORRECT ratio to suit the tyres you will run.

Michael.

[auto_eng]

What list of part would be required to conver to toyota hilux centres?

Which axles to you run?

Cheers

[landy_man]

guys this has been covered soooooooooo many times now...
high pinion bundera or 80 series front diff
hilux rear diff
jac mac axles and flanges
stub axle machining
swivel machining
bush for swivels

thats about it if I remember correctly

[derangedrover]

gq track:
front 1530mm
rear 1535mm

rangie track:
front and rear 1490mm


With the right offset wheels you could engineer this in qld.

Wonder how strong stock gq axles are compared to 30spl Jac Mac's?

Plus the gq's can be had for ~$1000 a pair and you get a great rear lsd.

the gq's plus one airlocker would have to be cheaper than a comparable setup using toy bits, ie one toy lsd one arb and jac mac axles? ignoring the loss of clearance, engineering issues.

Add some haultech cv's to the gq front end and I reckon it could be a strong set of axles for a fair price ~2500? if you can do the links/steering yourself.

Jac mac stuf is ~$1100 just for axles and flanges, before machining work and centres. Add price of centres say ~$600, arb $1000 and your up to ~$2700 using stock toy cv's.

Limited ratio choice in the gq's is a bit of a problem for some.

rear sals is about $1000 from wreckers and you still need traction device and cwp of choice, then front end $'s would end up pretty expensive.

Rambling/thinking out loud over.....

Cheers
Daryl

[landy_man]

but you would need to run bigger tyres to get the same clearance under the nissan diff

[derangedrover]

true

im thinking more along the lines of a play/winch challenge/obc rig on a budget. Quick easy replacement parts for gq axles/cv's, but then failure of a jm axle without a cwp breaking first is probably pretty remote and yota centres are easy to find too...

I think the loss of ~25mm of ground clearnce once you get up around 36-37" tyre isn't that much of an issue, lots of others are in the same boat and being competative.

Sals are big too.

thinking too hard about under diff clearance starts dreams of portals....

Cheers
Daryl

[daddylonglegs]

The reason I say that Landrover axle assemblies are probably the only ones you can legally run up to 36 inch diameter tyres on is that all models from the 1960's on had a 1 ton or forward control 1.5 ton payload version which used the same swivel housings, hubs,wheel bearings, spindles etc as the standard model, these higher capacity variants all had 9.00x16 tyres which with some brands, Michelin for example were almost 37 inches in diameter and 10.5 inch section width.
Because earlier Range rovers also used the same size swivels hubs etc, there should be no argument from RTA engineers as to their suitability for similar tyre sizes. Of course most of us know that Rover type diffs and halfshafts are not really up to turning these large wheels but due to fully floating hubs if a diff or axle breaks safety is not compromised, the wheels will stay on and you can still drive the vehicle safely in front wheel drive. The same thing cannot be said for Nissan GQ/GU rear diffs except for the leaf sprung coil cab models. Toyota Landcruisers have full floating front and rear axle assemblies , but as far as I am aware there wasn't a factory approved optional tyre size any where near 36 inch, anywhere in the world, so if an engineer knocked you back on 35's you couldn't really argue the point with him, even though Landcruiser swivels, hubs, spindles,
diffs and axles etc are superior to Rover ones .

[derangedrover]

but if you live in qld (soon to be national rules?) its still only ever going to be +25mm over largest tyre on placard regardless.

for the money you save over a sals you could carry a couple of spare axles.

even the big tyre/big hp/big weight brigade aren't breaking gq rear axles are they so the technical merits of a full float rear end are moot?

serious questions, not trying to make out im any sort of authority here..

Cheers
Daryl