Front end Grinding Noise

[MereMale]

Hi Guys
Not knowing much mechanicly and not having a manual as yet for an 86 MQ, I have no idea about a grinding noise coming from the front when driving
Seems to be more on the Pass side esp when turning left.
Had a look at the brake pads and there seems to be heaps left on those.
The rig as the auto lockers, and not sure if it might have been these playing up. IF so are they hard to change to manual ones?
Or the only other thing I could think of was the front diff starting to let go, and if so what involved there please.
Seems to be getting worse over time.

[roadrunner]

Take the weight off with a jack and give the wheel a shake from the top and bottom. If you feel any slack or you can move it at all, you've done a wheel bearing.


If so, get it fixed straight away, as if it continues it'll do major damage and there's a possibility of the wheel and axle parting ways with the rest of the assembly

Hope this helps

[MereMale]

Thanks Raod Runner I'll give it a try and see what I come up with.

[MereMale]

As far as I can tell you were right on the $$$$$$$$$$$ Road Runner.

Now all I have to do is work out how to do it and what needs to come off

If anyone can advise it would be gr8ly appreciated.
The rig is an MQ.

[V8Patrol]

REPLACE THE OTHER SIDE WHILE YA AT IT !!!!

REPLACE THE KING PIN BEARINGS ON BOTH SIDES ASWELL !!!!

PLAN TO DO THE REAR DIFF IN THE NOT TOO DISTANT FUTURE !!!!

it may cost now but it will be far cheaper in the long run......

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

To Fix wheel bearings.....

Jack up rig and remove front wheels

remove locking hubs ( auto or manual hubs)

remove split pin from tierod end & then remove tierod end ( steering arm between the 2 hubs )




now we concerntrate on the guts of the hub itself.........

remove the 2 spacer shimms ( up against the actual hub, you'll need em out so that the socket will fit in )

remove circlip on the end of the splined drive shaft ( prick of a job !! )

remove inner toothed hub drive from splined drive shaft

straighten out locking tab between the 2 big nuts ( it should be folded both ways over each nut.

Undo and remove the 2 nuts ( 54 mm socket required here)

hub now free to come off

replace bearings and reverse the disasembly process

doing all the front bearings ( king pin included ) should take 5 hours

have a nice day

Kingy

[MereMale]

Thanks Kingy

Just made my day, not.
As for 5 hours, I think I'll make that a couple of days as I don't have a clue for sure and this will be my first time at doing something like this.
As for King pins I'll try and work out what they are.

[V8Patrol]

sorry

King pins = the bearings that the hubs swivel left and right on !!!

look down from at the top of the hub .....

see those four 12mm bolts forming a square and about 45mm apart ....

well they are bolting a plate to the top of the hub and if ya remove the bolts and then the plate you'll find another bearing that is attached to the other side of that plate !
thats ya top king pin bearing.... the bottom bearing is accesiable from the bottom of the hub ! and yep they are similar to a wheel bearing to look at !

good job for the w/end, easy to do and above all ........ ASK IF UNSURE !

Repco and others carry a complete rebuild kit for the MQ front hub, ask Screwy Screwball for a price.
Kit includes all bearings seals and the big "wiper" seal that sweeps clean the ball part of the axle.

If all else fails ask some-one from this board to help ya...... no-one here reads minds ................................... yet

Kingy

[buger man]

when all that fails call the tow truck to take it to the garage

[bogged]

Thanks Kingy

Just made my day, not.
As for 5 hours, I think I'll make that a couple of days as I don't have a clue for sure and this will be my first time at doing something like this.
As for King pins I'll try and work out what they are.

you could do a road trip to Kingys place

[MKPatrolGuy]

Don't go to REPCO for the bearings, you will get ripped off. Go to one of the bearing places, like Bearing Wholesalers. Heaps cheaper.

[MereMale]

Thanks Dave.
Thanks Kingy I've just sent Screwy an email.

Now just to give you all something else to LAUGH about.
Thought I had the Mrs car to use to get parts, now that is making a weird noise and it aint the bearings as the wheel doesn't move. Its a front wheel drive carolla seca , which now just leave the dirt bike to get things.
Hope the cops aren't out as it isn't registered
If the bike starts to play up I'm really gonna spit it and jump it off the end of the peir.

[roadrunner]

If the bike starts to play up I'm really gonna spit it and jump it off the end of the peir.

No time for having a swim, you gotta fix the Patrol

So hows it going, you fit all the parts you needed

[MereMale]

The front Passenger was ok, but has been replaced.
Had no idea so got the local mobile mech out, who happen to do his apprentiship on them.
He was stuffed by it also as the noise was still there, he went over the car and it happens to be the passenger rear.
So now have to take out the axle and get it done at a 4x4 place

[V8Patrol]

The rear axle........

so much easier than the front one to do !

[MereMale]

It the rear wheel bearing, the seal let go and the bearings gone on the inside.
The sound was traveling to the front, he was stuffed by it too.
Have to get something pressed off and then a bearing kit put thru it.
His mate has a GQ and his 20 tonne press couldn't do it, so has advised a couple of places.

[V8Patrol]

has advised a couple of places.

Its called "oxy accetelene" ..... the bearing is stuffed so just cut it off !

You'll need a 60 tonne press to move some of em if you go this way..... I had an MQ one that wouldnt budge even with 60 tonne and heat applied at the same time, end up cutting it off and have done em that way ever since.
refitting em is a piece of pi$$

Kingy

[beretta]

Give it a nip with the gas axe, heaps better and quicker than stuffing around with presses....heaps more fun! Just hold the tip paralell with the axel and cut it off, that way you're not putting direct heat onto the axel itself, just the bearing.