Brake Charge light -please advise

[Jimmy L]

Hi
Im having problems with the dreaded BRAKE CHARGE light on the dash again. It seems to be flashing on and off but stays on when idle and when you accerate over 2000 rpm it goes off. I'm hoping it's a loose wire or something and not the alternator. The alternator is aftermarket bosch and I wouldn't expect to break after 2.5 years. Any info or advise would be apprieciated.
Thanks
Jimmy

[crowey]

Sad to say it mate, but it sounds like the alternator.
It doesnt really matter how old it is to have problems, if you have been through any mud or water that can affect it pretty quickly.

If when you rev the engine the light goes out, it sounds like there might be a bit of dirt in the there. give it a good spray and make sure the plug in the back is on nice and tight!

The tigher the better

[SimplyPV]

also make sure your negative terminal on the alternator is making full contact.... mine was coming apart (holding on by 2 strands!) when i found it and it had caused shitloads of problems... and i was just about to replace the alternator too! so take it out, clean it up real good, put it back and and make sure all connections are secure, then go from there like crowey said.

[Jimmy L]

I hit it with a hammer and screwdriver and it's working fine now, I check the connections before next weeks trip. Fingers crossed

[lowndsie]

I had the exact same thing happen to me. I was tapping the alternator to keep it going but in the end I had to fork out 300 bucks for a new one. I hope there's no more dramas for u

[Jimmy L]

Tell me about it I've had to change mine three times in 5 years, and it's a time consuming job if your not mechanical. I remember thinking how good I was for doing the exchange myself only to find my cooling system leaking like a sift. Why couldn't they bolt the alternator near the top of the engine bay.

[DeVooluff]

Sounds like the brushes are (were) not contacting the slip rings. Mine were exhibiting similar behaviour as the brushes and slip rings wore to the point where there was insufficient pressure pushing the two together.
(factory standard alternator)

If one of the brushes had siezed, perhaps the hammer tap liberated it.

See the 'idiot lights' article at;
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=238167&highlight=#238167

The fix in my case (one slip ring worn badly) was to desolder the brushes and swap them around, saved me spending $300 on a new one (for how long though?). Been working fine ever since. The point to take from this is that when the brake light stays on and the brake fluid is fine, it's worth checking out the alternator.

[BundyRumandCoke]

I got to agree. Dont shell out for a replacement alternator without first checking for worn brushes. They eventually wear out, and have insufficent length to contact the armature. Replacements will set you back around $20, and fitting is pretty easy.

[SimplyPV]

why doesnt anyone try mouting the alternator somewhere else on the block? more towards the top that is.... or maybe even directly on top! anything is possible! if i'm able to hang onto my truck and retire it by buying a pos junk car, i'll save enough money to redo the entire drive line with a SAS..... (oh yeah baby) and an engine with an alternator thats mounted towards the top of the thing..... maybe a desiel.... i dunno.. dreaming at this stage....