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Same as above GQ's need their proportioning valve bleed.
Otherwise line lock each hose and see which one makes the pedal stay firm,that pinpoints the problem.
PS if it's the prop valve the problem persists because there is no hose before it.
J Top
did you go l/h/r, r/h/r, l/h/f, r/h/f? and don't
press the brake pedal completly to the floor.
i don't exactly no why this shouldn't be done
as i can't remember this old bloke i used to work
with always said not too. is the brake proportioning
valve adj right?
The theory behind not pushing the pedal to the floor is the M/C never travels this far so there can be rust in the unused part of the bore and the M/C cups will destroy themselves on it.Most new M/C's are alloy so this is probably less of a problem.
J Top
GQ wrote:Bled the brakes with engine off (this correct procedure?? )
nice and tight.
Turn engine on..
pedal goes to the floor.. spongy.. and tightens up after a few pumps.
and wait a few seconds... press brakes again.. pedal goes to the floor.
Am i right in thinking theres still more air in the brake system?
Should i take it to a brake shop and have it power bled?
TOM
Last power bleed I had from a major tyre outlet they didn't bleed the rears or all the front valves. And they didn't was the brake fluid off the car.
If after you have pumped up the brakes with the engine on can you push on the pedal gently and apply pressure and reach the floor ? If so two things
1. Seals in MC could be stuffed and it is allow fluid to pass back past the piston.
2. MC could be undersized for the brake line arrangement, i.e. it can't displace enough fluid to fully pressurize the system.
This is the original braking arrangment that came with the 2.8. Worked fine until i removed brake lines to install longer lines and did the engine conversion.
GQ wrote:This is the original braking arrangment that came with the 2.8. Worked fine until i removed brake lines to install longer lines and did the engine conversion.
So hopefully air in the system.
TOM
I think it would be a safe bet that there is air there, bleed it first thing in the morning so some of the bubbles can all run together and come out as one big bubble instead of heaps of small ones, I priced various pressure bleeders - ranging from ones that just screwed into the resevoir and allowed you to pressurise it and bleed from there.
The only disadvantage is that you only get the volume of the resevoir to play with. IIRC I found them at repco for about $100 - not the cheapest place but I was running out of other suppliers - anyone else got any ideas ?
