Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Bled the brakes with engine off (this correct procedure?? )

nice and tight.

Turn engine on..

pedal goes to the floor.. spongy.. and tightens up after a few pumps.

and wait a few seconds... press brakes again.. pedal goes to the floor.

Am i right in thinking theres still more air in the brake system?

Should i take it to a brake shop and have it power bled?

TOM

bleed it with the engine running?

h

you might hav to adjust the brakes .
list your make and model ?
i use a air opperated bleader . one man can blead the brakes by himself .

rock hopper wrote:you might hav to adjust the brakes .
list your make and model ?
.

Sorry.. thought my name was obvious enough

its a 96 GQ patrol which previously was a 2.8 TD now a 4.2 TD

TOM

we didn't have any problems with bleeding your old crummydore back in 2000 at caboolture......

Memories

Had a similiar prob with the 80, so i bled the proportioning valve and it's a bit better now.

Same as above GQ's need their proportioning valve bleed.
Otherwise line lock each hose and see which one makes the pedal stay firm,that pinpoints the problem.
PS if it's the prop valve the problem persists because there is no hose before it.
J Top

did you go l/h/r, r/h/r, l/h/f, r/h/f? and don't
press the brake pedal completly to the floor.
i don't exactly no why this shouldn't be done
as i can't remember this old bloke i used to work
with always said not too. is the brake proportioning
valve adj right?

thanks fellas.. ill give the proportioning valve a look at tomorrow.

Why cant the brake pedal be depressed into the floor??

I did Left rear, then right rear, then left front then right front.. working my way from longst to shortest.

Ill see how i go tmw and let ya all know.

TOM

The theory behind not pushing the pedal to the floor is the M/C never travels this far so there can be rust in the unused part of the bore and the M/C cups will destroy themselves on it.Most new M/C's are alloy so this is probably less of a problem.
J Top

i knew some one would know. thank's J Top

GQ wrote:Bled the brakes with engine off (this correct procedure?? )

nice and tight.

Turn engine on..

pedal goes to the floor.. spongy.. and tightens up after a few pumps.

and wait a few seconds... press brakes again.. pedal goes to the floor.

Am i right in thinking theres still more air in the brake system?

Should i take it to a brake shop and have it power bled?

TOM

Last power bleed I had from a major tyre outlet they didn't bleed the rears or all the front valves. And they didn't was the brake fluid off the car.

If after you have pumped up the brakes with the engine on can you push on the pedal gently and apply pressure and reach the floor ? If so two things

1. Seals in MC could be stuffed and it is allow fluid to pass back past the piston.
2. MC could be undersized for the brake line arrangement, i.e. it can't displace enough fluid to fully pressurize the system.

Tom

This is the original braking arrangment that came with the 2.8. Worked fine until i removed brake lines to install longer lines and did the engine conversion.

So hopefully air in the system.

TOM

GQ wrote:This is the original braking arrangment that came with the 2.8. Worked fine until i removed brake lines to install longer lines and did the engine conversion.

So hopefully air in the system.

TOM

I think it would be a safe bet that there is air there, bleed it first thing in the morning so some of the bubbles can all run together and come out as one big bubble instead of heaps of small ones, I priced various pressure bleeders - ranging from ones that just screwed into the resevoir and allowed you to pressurise it and bleed from there.

The only disadvantage is that you only get the volume of the resevoir to play with. IIRC I found them at repco for about $100 - not the cheapest place but I was running out of other suppliers - anyone else got any ideas ?

Tom

After a 2nd attempt..

I called the mobile brake guy.

He duplicated what i did and traced the problem to a master cylinder which was rooted.

240 for a reco'd one coming my way now and hopefully should put the brake problems to rest.

TOM

so are you coming to oww2?

antt wrote:so are you coming to oww2?

still a big question mark there...

found out my front callipers are siezed. gettin them reco'd tmw. then ill take her for a long drive somewhere to run in the engine.

Ive had all sorts of dramas ever since engine got started - overheating.. - replaced thermostat, wheel bearing failure which saw the disc crack.

Reverted back to old braking system and find that the master cylinder and the front callipers are rooted.

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

I'll see what hapepns and it could be a last minute up and go.

TOM

always the way. as soon as you touch
one thing another stuff's up.