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Firewall Clearance

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

Moderators: lay80n, sierrajim

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What should i do?


Complete the planed lift (springover)
9
64%
Start hammering the footwells
2
14%
Cut and shut the footwells for clearance
3
21%
 
Total votes: 14

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Firewall Clearance

Post by Mudzuki »

Tried to fit my new tyres and rims (thanks bigsteve :D ) and I am having firewall clearance issues. When the swampers are on the front, steering is restricted to about 1 turn, lock to lock. I hammered the bejezus out of the seams, but they still hit. What should I do? I could wait, as im getting a SPOA soon, which will move the diff forwards slightly, or invest in a bloody big hammer, or get out the grinder and get someone on here to help me weld it shut.

Hears a pic of the trial fitting

Image

I also tested out the gearing, and i can live with it at the moment. Love the dragster look :D

Image

Had to remove the lights off the roof to fit out of the garage :lol: and sorry about the image quality. :cry:
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Post by DeWsE »

Why would you go spring over to fit the tyres, they fit spring under!

Now that I have that out of the way, I cut my seems off and hammed the guard…I also moved the diff forward 1.5 inches though.

What kind of gearing are you running at the moment?
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Post by bigsteve »

:cool: Tyres dude

As Matt said move the diff forward, or throw in a standard rear spring.

I wouldn't cut the firewall, sure they will fit but when you change the front spring setup (either by SPOA or a longer spring) you will have the clearance and everybody will be able to see your mangled firewall.
yeshemesh
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Post by bigsteve »

Make up something like this

Image

Should be a simple and cheap work around
yeshemesh
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Post by Mudzuki »

Gearing is stock 88 1.3 widetrak. Was fine for driving onroad, by low range is shattered.

With firewall trimming, i was thinking that something similar to 45ed sills would be how it ended up, as in you cut some off, then patch it up with flt plate. Anyway, spoa ain't that expensive, especially as my exams are finnished on monday, so ill work heaps, and hopefully get it done asap.
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Post by Mudzuki »

Those pictures are of diff relocators right, as it the centrepin on the diff goes in one hole, and the pin on the plate goes on the spring?

Are they commercially available in aus?

Will there be associated problems with driveline, shock, etc?
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Post by bigsteve »

Snake racing may sell them??

Your shocks should handle a bit of forward movement of the diff.

It would be pretty basic to fab a set up .

Steve
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Post by Mudzuki »

Clearance at the moment is only about an inch when the wheels are straight ahead. Would need to drop the bumpstops down heaps to give me about 2" of up travel for this setup to work. Seems like a lot of mucking around for a temp soloution.
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Post by nicbeer »

You can redrill the diff perches as well. you will be able to get about .5 to a 1" from that.

I have done this on mine.

cheers
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Post by roc box »

go the springover it brings much joy :armsup: :armsup: :armsup:
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Post by Wolverine »

Cut your guards or maybe a 2inch body lift. Both cheap and easy options.
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Post by grimbo »

You'll need a 2" body lift and need to move the front diff forward about 45mm forward. You will probably need to extend your bumpstops too
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Post by Mudzuki »

Whoops, forgot to say, 2"BL already in :D

Leaning towards the springover
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Post by christover1 »

nicbeer wrote:You can redrill the diff perches as well. you will be able to get about .5 to a 1" from that.

I have done this on mine.

cheers


I did this, got 22mm, with the hole drilled exactly in centre of available metal, worx a treat, I spaced the bottom of the shox back about 5mm, max without fabbing, thio it probly not needed, christover
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Post by sierrajim »

go SPOA, much more entertaining for others out wheeling with you when you end up on your side.
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Post by roc box »

ive got spoa 2in bl 32s stability is good and ive had it on some real nasty angles hasnt flopped yet :lol:
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Post by Gonzo »

roc box wrote:ive got spoa 2in bl 32s stability is good and ive had it on some real nasty angles hasnt flopped yet :lol:


Such a big lift for such small tyres

Maybe if you try the big speed bumps at the mall it will flop :lol:
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Post by redzook »

sierrajim wrote:go SPOA, much more entertaining for others out wheeling with you when you end up on your side.


i get sic of hearing that

have u seen a well setup soa work?

if you do go spoa move the front diff forward as far as you can mine is moved 4+ inches it clears the firwall easily

also drop the body lift
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Post by Mudzuki »

christover1 wrote:
nicbeer wrote:You can redrill the diff perches as well. you will be able to get about .5 to a 1" from that.

I have done this on mine.

cheers


I did this, got 22mm, with the hole drilled exactly in centre of available metal, worx a treat, I spaced the bottom of the shox back about 5mm, max without fabbing, thio it probly not needed, christover


Any pics of this, may hve to get out the drill :twisted:
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Post by grimbo »

redzook wrote:
sierrajim wrote:go SPOA, much more entertaining for others out wheeling with you when you end up on your side.


i get sic of hearing that

have u seen a well setup soa work?

if you do go spoa move the front diff forward as far as you can mine is moved 4+ inches it clears the firwall easily

also drop the body lift


have you seen a badly setup spoa, much more common.
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Post by Mudzuki »

The guy that will be doing mine will be quite capable
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Post by sierrajim »

who's going to do the work for you?

Be sure to go out for a run in a car that he has done to make sure that they work well not just look good.
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Post by Mudzuki »

Joe at 4Play is doing it, will make sure i take one for a ride, he has offered that to me, and from all the people ive spoken to, his nae just keeps popping up.
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Post by roc box »

i agree with redzook a well set up spoa works well i reckon the extra flex makes it all the more stable mine is no more un stable than it was with extended shackles and 30s if any thing it works far better
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