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Need help! Replacing Brake Pads

Tech Talk for Mitsubishi owners.

Moderator: -Scott-

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Posts: 14209
Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2004 11:36 am
Location: Adelaide

Need help! Replacing Brake Pads

Post by -Scott- »

Help!

I'm replacing the brake pads on the Pajero - I've done it with previous cars - it's easy!

So I get the new pads in, and I need to force them further apart to get them back over the disc. But they won't go far enough. :?

:idea: If at first you don't succeed, read the instructions! :roll:

I break out the Gregory's manual, and it says to remove half the brake fluid from the master cylinder, to make sure there's room for the calipers do displace fluid as you open them up for the new pads. Doh! Why didn't I think of that?

So I pop the bonnet and try to remove the cap from the master cylinder. The usual message on top of the cap about "clean first, fresh fluid, closed container yada yada yada..." No indication of how it comes off. So I twist anti-clockwise - nothing. I twist clockwise - nothing. I try to lift, and feel like I'm about to break the reservoir. :x

:idea: Read the Owner's manual!

It says the master cylinder has a special cap to prevent air getting in, and I shouldn't remove it! :bad-words: It goes on to say that the level will drop as the pads wear, and that's completely normal. :x Mine is choc-a-bloc full - I can't see the fluid level because it's up inside the cap somewhere.

In desperation I removed the brake caliper from the other wheel, hoping that I'd get enough "space" in the system to get one caliper back on with the new pads - nope!

I'm now out of ideas.

Anyone?

Thanks,

Scott :drinking:
Posts: 2739
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2002 7:50 am
Location: Melbourne

Post by Bitsamissin »

The cap sort of pops off and is a bitch.
You can open the bleeder screw on that caliper to let some fluid out as you push the pistons back to make enough room.
A good investment is a piston spreader ($10 at Autobahn) coz sometimes they can jam a bit.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Posts: 14209
Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2004 11:36 am
Location: Adelaide

Post by -Scott- »

Thanks Frank.

I cracked the bleed valve and used a pair of pliers as pad spreaders. I got there eventually, but even with a hose on the bleeder, dipped into a jar of brake fluid, I have a horrible feeling there's air in there somewhere. :?

A problem for tomorrow... :drinking:

Cheers,

Scott
Posts: 2739
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2002 7:50 am
Location: Melbourne

Post by Bitsamissin »

Another thing to is to keep those sliding pins well greased with rubber grease. If you drive a lot of mud or even dust they can bind causing uneven pad wear. I wore out a set of Bendix 4x4 rear pads after 3 winter/trips until I sussed it out. I do this job as well grease all the nipples, Armour All CV boots and all door seals after every muddy trip.
An ounce of prevention .........................................
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Posts: 14209
Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2004 11:36 am
Location: Adelaide

Post by -Scott- »

Interesting - I noticed on both sides, the pad with the little noise maker tab was worn significantly more than the other. Slide back the little boot and apply some grease? What is this rubber grease of which you speak - got a brand / name handy?

Thanks,

Scott
Posts: 2739
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2002 7:50 am
Location: Melbourne

Post by Bitsamissin »

Yep it's PBR rubber grease, black tube, available at any Autobahn store.
I usually remove both the rear sliding pins (top & bottom) clean any gunk off and regrease before refitting them.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
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