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FUSE /SWITCH BOARD

For all things Electrical.

Moderator: -Scott-

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Posts: 902
Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2004 5:29 pm
Location: Sydney

FUSE /SWITCH BOARD

Post by stool »

Where can I buy a 12v switch /fuse board to run 4 or so things off
Ive run a cable as thick as a finger to to back and want a neat board with individual fuse`s and run things from there im in sydney
GQ with big nuts
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Location: Adelaide

Post by -Scott- »

Narva make a neat little fuse block to hold 4 blade fuses, but they have individual spade connections on both sides. I'm not sure how you'd connect one thick cable to four 6.3mm spades - but where there's a will, there's a way!

Most larger auto stores should have them.

A slightly dearer option, to increase the bling, would be the car sound mobs - they have all sorts of flash looking wiring accessories.

Cheers,

Scott
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Location: Norway

Post by totto »

Or, if, as it seems, you want a combined switchbord/fusebox look in boat accessories shops, they have these small boards ready for mounting with both switches, and the fuses changable from the front..... :cool:
totto
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Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2004 11:31 am

Post by Top Cat »

Im guessing that what you mean by a finger width cable is in fact something like an orange circular with 4-5 cores inside.

If you were planning to put all the switches at the back then you only needed one normal sized cable..........but maybe you have switches in the cab???

You must ensure that the cable you have run is protected with a fuse or fuses as close to the battery as possible.

Other than that.....as mentioned above you can get them at Bias boating warehouse or higher quality ones with less cutesy stuff at any decent auto parts store.

Not supercheap or anything like that...thats a auto accessories cheapo store.....u need to go somewhere where u can actuially order real car parts.
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Post by turps »

The way I did mine. Was I ran the wire to where I wanted it (behind the drivers seat), with a circuit breaker (45amp) near the battery. Then using a 6 terminal Narva fuse block. We stripped about 3" of insulation off it then soldered the wire to all terminals. Then put abit of split conduit over it to protect it ($10/roll from Bursons). Much easier than doing a heap of little loops and using spade connectors.
Currently there is only 2 terminals in use. 1 is earthed via a selftapper into the body. The other uses the the rear drawer system to earth to the body.
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY....
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