Converting Airconditioner to On board air.

[ToNkA]

Did a search but most of the info is in regards to York compressors etc.
(plus with pics down, some of the threads make no sense)

My new engine has the airconditioning pump on it, that I will not be using for airconditioning. Thinking I could use it for onboard air. I already have an ARB compressor in the Tray for the lockers and happy to keep it there. Thinking I could use the airconditioning pump/compressor for pumping tyres and air tools (using a tank).

Do I need to do anything to th e pump/compressor or is it simple plumbing to a tank?

Info please?

[ISUZUROVER]

Exactly the same as with a york, but if you want it to last you need to put an air/oil separator after the compressed air outlet and run a capillary line from the bottom of the separator bowl to the compressor inlet. This keeps the compressor oil circulating around like in an air con system.

[De-lux]

dont know if this thread helps you in any way cLiX0r

[Hybrid]

this has pics and a diagram

http://www.yankeetoys.org/Documents/air ... nails1.htm

[ISUZUROVER]

this has pics and a diagram

http://www.yankeetoys.org/Documents/air ... nails1.htm

The problem with that setup is you have to continually empty the separator and refill the tool oiler. With a capillary line from the separator bowl to the air intake, you remove the need for the tool oiler, and you just have to drain the water from the bowl occasionally. The capillary line should be drilled and tapped into the bowl just above the bottom, to allow some water to sit in the bowl without being sucked up by the line. The bowls of most separators are polycarbonate, which can be drilled and tapped easily.

[Gribble]

Whats wrong with using crankcase air? It would have enough oil vapour to happilly keep an aircon pump lubricated as long as you werent running mega high air pressures. And as long as your air tank has a drain valve i couldn't see a drama with it. Thats the system I intend to run anyway. Standard A/C compressor with a smallish truck air tank fitted under the tray. Have an outlet at each side at the front of the tray. Pressure limit it to about 110psi so its locker safe. With a big enough tank, 20-25l is what i want to run, there should still be more than enough flow to pump up a tyre in a few mins, prolly quicker.

[Woop]

Adding to Isuzu Rovers post, use high temp braided hose or aircon hose on the pump discharge hose to the tank. Use an industrial pressure switch with a built in unloader valve. Install a check valve on the inlet to the tank and a T PIECE between the compressor outlet and the check valve. Run the third port of the TPIECE to the unloader valve in the pressure switch. The other port on the pressure switch connects to the airtank. Install a SAFETY VALVE in the tank. Run 12V to the compressor clutch via the contacts in the pressure switch.

The idea behind this is that when the pressure switch switches off the electric clutch on the compressor, it then 'unloads' the air out of the compressor discharge line, thus operating the check valve. This prevents leaks back via the compressor rings and means the compressor starts under no load. These industrial pressure switches are used on most types of portable air compressors and are adjustable to cut in at 80PSI and out at 120PSI.

Nick

[ISUZUROVER]

Good advice Nick. I bought my pressure switch from Tradetools (QLD) new for under $30 - it is the same as they use on their compressors. They are fully adjustable down to about 40psi or lower and up to about 250psi.

I have a slightly different (simpler) setup though (I didn't use the unloader valve on the pressure switch). I use a metal one-way (vacuum brake) valve from a nissan bluebird just after the compressor outlet (I use special high temperature air line from the compressor to the one way and from the one way to the oil/water separator, then standard industrial air hose for all other connections. The one way valve allows the compressor to bleed off pressure when it shuts down, without losing pressure from the system. I run a safety valve on one of the two air tanks connected to the system.

[bogged]

Adding

how many tanks you got now, last time I saw was 3 i think...?

also about 7 comms radios....

[bigbluemav]

Take the tank to an air compressor parts/service place and buy a non return valve. My tank came off a truck and the threads were the same. As well as the main inlet line, there's also a port for a 5mm line that goes to the pressure cut off switch, if you wish to purchase one. I'd strongly suggest it.

Get a switch with one inlet (bottom) and three outlets. On one I put a pressure release valve to set at whatever pressure you wish, a pressure gauge on one and the air outlet to the other. I also made up a manifold from three "T" pieces that I got from Enzed.

Both the pressure cut off switch and the relief valve you have to set yourself, its not hard......even I can do it!!!


The stuff from the air compressor shop (pressure cut off switch, relief valve, pressure gauge, 4m of 5mm line and thread tape, I got for $50. The other fittings and line cost me $120 from Enzed.

Its well worth the effort, mine works a charm for airing up tyres and for air lockers, with my 10 litre tank. The only thing I'd change would be a larger tank, or an array of tanks.....maybe soon.


Regards

[bazzle]

Been putting a pump of Moly in my Endless air once every 6 months for 6 years now, no lube problems. Any grease that gets past comp just drops to bottom of air tank and is removed when I bleed tank yearly.

Bazzle

[ToNkA]

Been putting a pump of Moly in my Endless air once every 6 months for 6 years now, no lube problems. Any grease that gets past comp just drops to bottom of air tank and is removed when I bleed tank yearly.

Bazzle

Are you saying I dont need to run all these capillary oil lines like mentioned above?

[bogged]

www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/yorkair.html
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/body/york/
http://www.wt4wheeling.com/tech/york.htm
http://homepage.mac.com/rv6a/oba.html
http://www.webejeepin.com/Glenns_Jeep/onboard-air1.htm
http://www.jeepaholics.com/tech/OBA2/

[ToNkA]

[ISUZUROVER]

Been putting a pump of Moly in my Endless air once every 6 months for 6 years now, no lube problems. Any grease that gets past comp just drops to bottom of air tank and is removed when I bleed tank yearly.

Bazzle

Are you saying I dont need to run all these capillary oil lines like mentioned above?

The air con compressors sold by endless with their kits have a grease nipple tapped into the bolt at the top of the compressor body. However, air con compressors are designed to run with continuous lubrication, so they will work better and last longer if you do fit oil circulation.

[ausyota]

this has pics and a diagram

http://www.yankeetoys.org/Documents/air ... nails1.htm

The problem with that setup is you have to continually empty the separator and refill the tool oiler. With a capillary line from the separator bowl to the air intake, you remove the need for the tool oiler, and you just have to drain the water from the bowl occasionally. The capillary line should be drilled and tapped into the bowl just above the bottom, to allow some water to sit in the bowl without being sucked up by the line. The bowls of most separators are polycarbonate, which can be drilled and tapped easily.

So how exactly do you set up this capillary line?
You drill and tap the oil/water separator and fit what sized line? made of what?
And attach this to the air intake how?
Paul.

[Woop]

Adding

how many tanks you got now, last time I saw was 3 i think...?

Yes Bruce, still 3 tanks--2 40l and 1 little 5 l tank under neath the winch.. Using Endless air to fill via an airbrake unloader valve/dryer combo then on to a 4 way valve which fills each tank in turn, or only fills the tank that needs filling.

As far as the oiler goes, i THINK that you use an oil/water seperator, then in place of what would normally be its drain valve, you run a small airline feeding back into the air intake of the compressor. The oil that builds up is pumped out under pressure via the airline on the drain of the seperator then back into the compressor thus keeping it lubricated........

Nick

[ISUZUROVER]

[
So how exactly do you set up this capillary line?
You drill and tap the oil/water separator and fit what sized line? made of what?
And attach this to the air intake how?
Paul.

The easiest way is to get some polyurethane tube with about 1mm internal diameter and one or two "pushlock" fittings. These are sold by any place that sells pneumatic fittings will have what you need.

Here is where I buy all my fittings from at the moment (sorry it is in German) - I forget who the australian supplier was at the moment.
http://www.landefeld.de/index2.htm

You drill and tap the polycarbonate bowl, leaving some space for water. Then the same on the compressor intake, push the hose in and you are done.