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RR swivel h & cv stub axle to defender
Moderator: Micka
RR swivel h & cv stub axle to defender
Hi guys. Am getting over replacing cv's to my 96 defender. Have upgraded to 110cvs and still breaking which is expected i guess. Was wondering how hard it is to fit range rover swivel housings, cv's and stub axles?
Just thinking it would be a lot easier and cheaper to replace a stub axle in the field and save returning home with no front tailshaft and drive flanges. Would rather keep things simple instead of going to the hassle of toy centers and cv's. As the guys in the bobbed orange RR in the outback challenge run standard driveline without any problems. Have only been in the CQ Offroad club for about 1 and half years so far. And can get the RR parts cheap.
I run a 130 defender choped to 100, 2" lift and 2" body lift. ZF auto 300 tdi, Maxidrive rear and front axles and ARB lockers front and rear turning 35 pedes on standard gearing and diffs.
I run a 130 defender choped to 100, 2" lift and 2" body lift. ZF auto 300 tdi, Maxidrive rear and front axles and ARB lockers front and rear turning 35 pedes on standard gearing and diffs.
Problem is, it is not safe to drive with a blown CV as it could jam your steering at the wrong time.
I would suggest talking with Sam at Haultech Engg in Brisbane. Pull your 110 CVs and get them heat treated with a ring welded on. These should strong enough with your setup if you don't drive really crazy. Plus won't cost much.
Watch this thread at PBB. We are trying to get Longfield to do a special run of hos chrome moly / 300M CVs in 110 CV size. If this happen, it will be a straight swap and be stronger than the rest of the axle.
I would suggest talking with Sam at Haultech Engg in Brisbane. Pull your 110 CVs and get them heat treated with a ring welded on. These should strong enough with your setup if you don't drive really crazy. Plus won't cost much.
Watch this thread at PBB. We are trying to get Longfield to do a special run of hos chrome moly / 300M CVs in 110 CV size. If this happen, it will be a straight swap and be stronger than the rest of the axle.
[color=red]1991 Landrover 90 ex-MOD[/color]
Yes thanks for the advice. Have spoken to haultech last year. They want $400 a cv so was going to wait until i blew one. Only just put a new one in between stages at the logan challenge, but think i will go RR. Have been doing research and just have to axle changed from 24spline to 10 on the cv end. Then everything else standard RR. Can get the parts of a mate for cheap. But the longfields do sound interesting!
Vice President Cqoffroad.org.au
Yes, mate has standard on his RR with 400hp. Running double maxi drive lockers and 35's. Went to 110cv's and broke 2 the first trip out. Went back to RR again and hasnt had a prob. Rang up maxi drive and they said they are going back to RR cause they seem to work better.
Vice President Cqoffroad.org.au
I haven't heard of too many stubs on RR's breaking, inner axles or CV's go first, even then they hold up okay.
front locker is the killer on any CV, no matter how strong. stronger it is the longer it will last, but is still likely to break in the long term
front locker is the killer on any CV, no matter how strong. stronger it is the longer it will last, but is still likely to break in the long term
[i]DAS[/i]
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
CQ Davo
You must give it heaps a mate has a defender 110
trayback he all so gives it heaps all he`s broken is a
standard rear axel. Have you done work on the tdi??
Auto is usually easier on the drive line as well.
Like to see a pic of your defender if possible.
Cheers JEFF
You must give it heaps a mate has a defender 110
trayback he all so gives it heaps all he`s broken is a
standard rear axel. Have you done work on the tdi??
Auto is usually easier on the drive line as well.
Like to see a pic of your defender if possible.
Cheers JEFF
rover money pit on mogs !!!
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