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Bending front radius arms
Moderator: Micka
Bending front radius arms
Hi
had enough of the stiff front steering in my 91 rr so am going to get it sorted once and for all . It has a 2 ' spring lift and its a bit twitchy . From the past posts soem people have problems and some don't . Well going to take it into a tyre shop and get then to check the castor angle and see what it is . If its out I will look at new arms . Van across an old post that someone has bent there arms .
How did this go ? Anyone else tried this and how did you do it .
Also my steering is notichy each 90 deg , I would say due to the 2 ' body lift it also has that the joints in the shaft are binding . What can you do about this .
Cheers
Chris
had enough of the stiff front steering in my 91 rr so am going to get it sorted once and for all . It has a 2 ' spring lift and its a bit twitchy . From the past posts soem people have problems and some don't . Well going to take it into a tyre shop and get then to check the castor angle and see what it is . If its out I will look at new arms . Van across an old post that someone has bent there arms .
How did this go ? Anyone else tried this and how did you do it .
Also my steering is notichy each 90 deg , I would say due to the 2 ' body lift it also has that the joints in the shaft are binding . What can you do about this .
Cheers
Chris
Chiss,
bending the arms is very easy and will not effect them.
Just heat up untill dull red then bend.
there is a guy a NZ who also did this and got them approved by NZ rego.
http://www.rangie.com/articles_topic.ph ... &subCat=94
Michael.
My front arms.
bending the arms is very easy and will not effect them.
Just heat up untill dull red then bend.
there is a guy a NZ who also did this and got them approved by NZ rego.
http://www.rangie.com/articles_topic.ph ... &subCat=94
Michael.
My front arms.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
had a press to bend with .
also have just used a vice or similar.
Have used both oxy to heat with and used to have full blacksmiths shop forge excet.
Michael.
also have just used a vice or similar.
Have used both oxy to heat with and used to have full blacksmiths shop forge excet.
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Ok i found a very good condition set of front and rear arms all for 55 bucks each. i think thats no to bad . gonna get them on the weekend and give bending them a go. Gonna crank and strengthen the rears while im in the mood. hey HSV, could you post another pic of your rears for me on this thread?
drew
drew
MOVE OVER, HERE COMES ROVER!!!
G'day Drew i dont no about cranking the original rears they are not very strong to start with and i have heard of a few defenders which have had the rears let go and make a hell of a mess.Maybe you could cut the bush end off and make a set out of heavy wall tube for the rear.Michael will have a better idea as i believe he made a set of rears for his rangie
Cheers Kev
Cheers Kev
"Why do the British drink their beer at room temperature? Because Lucas builds their refrigerators."
sleveing them is what i was going to do. The other option is maybe that i might bend the original rears first then get some heavy angle and weld it on the underside of them for strength. Dave, did you bend the rears once or twice on your truck? if bent once does the knuckle that attaches to the axle housing bind on full droop with your rear setup ?
drew.
drew.
MOVE OVER, HERE COMES ROVER!!!
110 TUFF wrote:Ok i found a very good condition set of front and rear arms all for 55 bucks each. i think thats no to bad . gonna get them on the weekend and give bending them a go. Gonna crank and strengthen the rears while im in the mood. hey HSV, could you post another pic of your rears for me on this thread?
drew
Rears are made from 40*20 dom tube.
regards
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Bending front radius arms
G,day all.
Just a quick querie, if you bend the arms in one or two places doesn't that make their overall length shorter, and might the reduced length upset the geometry and or pull the axle lines closer together .
The rear seems easy to lengthen, but not so much the front.
My 9/34's rub on the firewall at full stuff with about 30mm clearance before they would hit the top of the inner guard with a 40mm body lift.
If possible I would like to push the front out, and still get the benefits of the bends.
Regards,
Michael.
Just a quick querie, if you bend the arms in one or two places doesn't that make their overall length shorter, and might the reduced length upset the geometry and or pull the axle lines closer together .
The rear seems easy to lengthen, but not so much the front.
My 9/34's rub on the firewall at full stuff with about 30mm clearance before they would hit the top of the inner guard with a 40mm body lift.
If possible I would like to push the front out, and still get the benefits of the bends.
Regards,
Michael.
out of my mind, back soon.
Re: Bending front radius arms
Rotazuk wrote:Hi
had enough of the stiff front steering in my 91 rr so am going to get it sorted once and for all . It has a 2 ' spring lift and its a bit twitchy . . .
Cheers
Chris
Reduced camber resulting from a spring lift should make the steering light, not stiff.
You might have some other problem, maybe to do with power steering, siezed uni-joints in shaft between steering column and steering box, or large scrub radius from large rim offset!
John
andrew e wrote:i am considering bending the front arms on my county. HSV rangie how did you cool yours? slow in sand or lime or fast in water? would this be a way to fix my camber issue (4" springs) or is rotating the swivels better option?
just let them air cool.
they are made of soft crap steel.
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
-------------------
Reduced camber resulting from a spring lift should make the steering light, not stiff.
You might have some other problem, maybe to do with power steering, siezed uni-joints in shaft between steering column and steering box, or large scrub radius from large rim offset!
-------------------------
Yep it has made the steering light , but twitchy as it does not want to stay in a straight line . I believe the body lift is binding up the u joints making the steering stiff . As I said it is only stiff at each 90 deg , have not had a good look at them yet , too lasy but on the list this weekend .
Cheers
Chris
Reduced camber resulting from a spring lift should make the steering light, not stiff.
You might have some other problem, maybe to do with power steering, siezed uni-joints in shaft between steering column and steering box, or large scrub radius from large rim offset!
-------------------------
Yep it has made the steering light , but twitchy as it does not want to stay in a straight line . I believe the body lift is binding up the u joints making the steering stiff . As I said it is only stiff at each 90 deg , have not had a good look at them yet , too lasy but on the list this weekend .
Cheers
Chris
Bending front radius arms
Michael,
How do you make sure the arms are bent straight,ie perpendicular to the bolt holes .
REgards Michael.
How do you make sure the arms are bent straight,ie perpendicular to the bolt holes .
REgards Michael.
out of my mind, back soon.
Hi chris,
The notch that you are getting about eveery 90' is most likely 99% your stearing shaft uj's. For the past 10 to 20 or 30 years of our vehicles at standard they only ever had to rotate throught a cirtain radius / angel. Then us folk grab the rigg and throw 2" lift in the body and they now have to go further than ever before. These areas are normally in a near state of seizure because the area has never been used.
To fix use a penitrant oil preferably or inox or similar before you go to bed on both joints heavily then in the morning all should be better. re do same in the morning and repeat medication every couple of months depending on type of use. VERY expensive to replace them.
The notch that you are getting about eveery 90' is most likely 99% your stearing shaft uj's. For the past 10 to 20 or 30 years of our vehicles at standard they only ever had to rotate throught a cirtain radius / angel. Then us folk grab the rigg and throw 2" lift in the body and they now have to go further than ever before. These areas are normally in a near state of seizure because the area has never been used.
To fix use a penitrant oil preferably or inox or similar before you go to bed on both joints heavily then in the morning all should be better. re do same in the morning and repeat medication every couple of months depending on type of use. VERY expensive to replace them.
If in dobt just smile, it won't change what is broken but it will make it feel a whole lot better.
Probably will not make much noticeable difference offroad. But it does make a difference to the rubber bushes, and the radius arm mods (together with castor corrected swivels) fixes other issues.cooter wrote:how much difference does this make offroad and does any1 have an arm they could show me
For pic of modified radius arm, see 2nd post in this thread.
John
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