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4 inch lift for SWB GQ??

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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4 inch lift for SWB GQ??

Post by Quadcamshorty »

Hi guys,


Was looking for a 4inch spring lift kit for my shorty, which kits do you guys reckon are the best?
What parts are required with the kit?
What price should i expect to pay?


Thanks in advance.
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Post by blkmav »

Go see Mark and get the EFS kit.

I've got the 3inch and it's excellent.

http://www.4wdconnections.com.au/
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Post by morkz »



why do u always put his website up theres nothing there
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04 GU TD6 wagon with some ARB stuff
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Morkz Media Web and Graphic Design
Also webhosting and domain registration.
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Post by Quadcamshorty »

blkmav, I'm sure you put the website so i had number. Ill give em a call


Would i be right in saying I need
Springs
Shocks
Camber plates
Longer panhards, either adj or custom made longer


How much have you paid for your setup?

cheers
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Post by blkmav »

Quadcamshorty wrote:blkmav, I'm sure you put the website so i had number. Ill give em a call


Would i be right in saying I need
Springs
Shocks
Camber plates
Longer panhards, either adj or custom made longer


How much have you paid for your setup?

cheers


Pretty much, if you're lucky it won't vibrate. Don't know price as I got it all done with a heap of other work.
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Post by blkmav »

morkz wrote:


why do u always put his website up theres nothing there


Contact info and what's your point?
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Re: 4 inch lift for SWB GQ??

Post by bogged »

Why do you need a 4inch lift?

way too many dramas with shortys.

3in and 2in body will get you past 36's.
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Post by morkz »

blkmav wrote:
morkz wrote:


why do u always put his website up theres nothing there


Contact info and what's your point?


just messing around
---------------------------------------------
04 GU TD6 wagon with some ARB stuff
---------------------------------------------
Morkz Media Web and Graphic Design
Also webhosting and domain registration.
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Location: Gold coast

Post by Quadcamshorty »

bogged, Was unsure whether 3 and 2 would be sweet for 36's, which i eventually want to run.

Whats the best 3 inch kit?
I was thinking dobinsons springs, but unsure about shocks. I have alot of money still to spend on the drivetrain, so cost is an issue.
Also I would rather have a more articulate setup than a perfect road setup. ie softer springs etc
Do i need to modify shock mountings?
What form of castor correction do you recommend?
Do you know the extra length required on the panhards for 3 and 4 inch lfts, as i can get them made no worries?
Obviously lengthening the rear trailing arms would be a good idea with a 3 inch.
Are the 12mm(i think) spacers enough for the front?
Also, I'm not particularly worried about legalities if this affects your answers.

Any other info you got, i'm keen to here it.

PS. Sorry for all the questions!!!

cheers.
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Post by robbie »

do a search or find the "lifting a GQ" thread.. there is 8 pages of info in it & all has been covered
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Post by Quadcamshorty »

robbie, i had a look through the searches, but didnt see that one.
Will have a look

Thanks.
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Post by robbie »

quick search on "GQ lift" & found it:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ht=gq+lift
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Post by bogged »

Quadcamshorty wrote:Also I would rather have a more articulate setup than a perfect road setup. ie softer springs etc

More lift doesnt mean more articulation.
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Post by Quadcamshorty »

I realise that, I was just mentioning it i thought it may alter your suggestions on springs/shocks etc etc.
Anyway, ill look through the thread.

Thanks guys.
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Post by bogged »

Quadcamshorty wrote:I realise that, I was just mentioning it i thought it may alter your suggestions on springs/shocks etc etc.
Anyway, ill look through the thread.

Thanks guys.


shorties can end up with mega vibs due to tailshaft angles, robbie has them now with 2inch lift.
then you want gearbox packers etc etc... that sometimes fixes it. Unless you want lift for bling bling, stay lower... doesnt have the cum on the fingers factor, but works.
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Post by Quadcamshorty »

thanks.
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Post by hottiemonster »

bogged wrote:
Quadcamshorty wrote:I realise that, I was just mentioning it i thought it may alter your suggestions on springs/shocks etc etc.
Anyway, ill look through the thread.

Thanks guys.


shorties can end up with mega vibs due to tailshaft angles, robbie has them now with 2inch lift.
then you want gearbox packers etc etc... that sometimes fixes it. Unless you want lift for bling bling, stay lower... doesnt have the cum on the fingers factor, but works.


whats the use of lifting a car and then adding packers, you lift it to gain clearance, then lose it with packers :shock: just drive it with the vibes and have more clearance :D
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Post by bogged »

hottiemonster wrote:whats the use of lifting a car and then adding packers, you lift it to gain clearance, then lose it with packers :shock:

I agree 100%

just drive it with the vibes and have more clearance :D

I disagree 100%.
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Post by KIWI »

While on the subject of lifts, anyone know tthe difference (roughly) in articulaion between a standard,2,3, and 4" lift?
Reason is, I have a 2" Tough Dog lift, and have found the springs too stiff, so am looking at either keeping the shocks and getting different springs, or replacing the lot with a bigger (3 or 4") lift.

Just want to at what point am I no longer gaining articulation, and would be better off with a body lift/ bigger tyres.


Cheers,
Dave
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Post by bogged »

KIWI wrote:While on the subject of lifts, anyone know tthe difference (roughly) in articulaion between a standard,2,3, and 4" lift?

one more time for the kiwis.

Articulation is not controlled by the size of the lift. you can have more articulation on a 2in lift than a 6in lift..
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Post by GQ TROL »

While on the subject of lifts, anyone know tthe difference (roughly) in
articulaion between a standard,2,3, and 4" lift?
Reason is, I have a 2" Tough Dog lift, and have found the springs too stiff, so am looking at either keeping the shocks and getting different springs, or replacing the lot with a bigger (3 or 4") lift.

Just want to at what point am I no longer gaining articulation, and would be better off with a body lift/ bigger tyres.


Dave,
You've discovered the same thing I did after going to a TD lift. Springs are too hard, lifts tyres off the ground when punting it up hills and knackers the shocks. Give me another month or so till I've got my 4" lift sorted and I'll let you know the details.

As Bruce says, a soft 2" lift coil can sometimes give more articulation than a hard 6" lift coil.

Cheers
Mitch
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Post by hottiemonster »

bogged wrote:
just drive it with the vibes and have more clearance :D

I disagree 100%.


i suppose there are other ways to fix the vibes without gearbox packers :)
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Post by muzza_fattire »

hottiemonster wrote:
bogged wrote:
just drive it with the vibes and have more clearance :D

I disagree 100%.


i suppose there are other ways to fix the vibes without gearbox packers :)


Yep. Cardan joint on the rear tailshaft = ~$900
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Post by blkmav »

muzza_fattire wrote:
hottiemonster wrote:
bogged wrote:
just drive it with the vibes and have more clearance :D

I disagree 100%.


i suppose there are other ways to fix the vibes without gearbox packers :)


Yep. Cardan joint on the rear tailshaft = ~$900


Don't need a DC if you have adjustable rear arms
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Post by muzza_fattire »

blkmav wrote:
muzza_fattire wrote:
hottiemonster wrote:
bogged wrote:
just drive it with the vibes and have more clearance :D

I disagree 100%.


i suppose there are other ways to fix the vibes without gearbox packers :)


Yep. Cardan joint on the rear tailshaft = ~$900


Don't need a DC if you have adjustable rear arms


Possibly...
Driveshafts vibrations are actually constant acceleration/decceleration of the shaft. This happens when the angle of the output shaft of the gearbox does not match the input shaft of the diff (within a few degrees). The universal joints in the shaft are not CV (constant velocity) joints and therefore accelerate/decelerate in a cycle every rotation.

The thing is, when you have both universal joints turning, the acceleration/decceleration cancels each other out and you get no vibrations.

When you have a DC joint in there, you line up the input shaft of the diff, with the driveshaft (adjustable trailing arms required) so the rear universal joint has constant velocity ie. no acceleration/decelleration. The DC joint at the transfercase end is a CV joint itself so does not create acceleration/deceleration problems. --> no vibrations.

If you just adjust the trailings arms so the transfercase and diff shafts are aligned you can cancel out the vibrations, but the operating angles of the universal joints in the driveshaft might exceed their maximum and fail.

Crap. I hope that makes sense... I have been at the RSL for lunch :D
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Post by bazzle »

Couldnt put it better myself... Wait
I did 3 months ago :P :P :P :P :P :P

Bazzle
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Post by muzza_fattire »

Sorry Baz. Didn't know you had done so.
At least you didn't say I was wrong, which means i got it right! :D
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Post by Quadcamshorty »

Bazzle, Sorry mate!


OK, ill put it this way.

Do i need a DC joint installed on my tailshaft?
Do i also need adj rear trailing arms? If so, what happens to the spring and shocks mounts to keep them level after you rotate the housing, I imagine that is the reason for them.

Do these answers change if i go to a 5inch lift?


cheers.
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Post by LmcD »

hey quad,
i had 5 inch lift in my shorty before turning it middy and had to do the following .
2x gearbox packers each side
longer trailing arms
and lifting the motor with new mounts
and even then i still had vibes.

and this all but erased the vibes :lol:
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Post by bogged »

Quadcamshorty wrote:Do these answers change if i go to a 5inch lift?

again, why do you NEED a 5inch lift?
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