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35" clearence
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
35" clearence
well BJ has actually made some sense about skipping 33"s and going straight to 35"s.
so i want to do run 35"s on my hilux but i dont think i will have enough clearnce on the front, it will have 2" body lift and 2-2.5" higher than standard springs. what do people reckon?????
so i want to do run 35"s on my hilux but i dont think i will have enough clearnce on the front, it will have 2" body lift and 2-2.5" higher than standard springs. what do people reckon?????
Blair,
90 2.8D HILUX s/c
33" BFG m/t
90 2.8D HILUX s/c
33" BFG m/t
35's
you will need to chop the guards
mine has 2" body lift and 3" spring lift and just clears 32's at full up travel
mine has 2" body lift and 3" spring lift and just clears 32's at full up travel
At the moment, I run 33" BFG with no body lift and stock springs. The tyres rub on the drivers side firewall, and the pitman arm at compression. . I've belted the seam flat and hacked the guards. The drivers side rubs enough to stop the tyre rotating at compression and make the opposite side spin wildly (no diff lock). I will have a 2" body lift in the next few weeks as well as longer shackles, dropped hangers and better springs so I should get rid of that problem - hopefully. I will be running at least 35" some time next year but will try to achieve this without tubbing the firewall. I will be converting to crossover and moving the front diff forward at least a couple of inches. Hopefully enough for 38"
Your results may be different due to having better springs. My normal ride height is probably almost full compression on any descent (?) spring.
Your results may be different due to having better springs. My normal ride height is probably almost full compression on any descent (?) spring.
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With my 38.5s I now have my front diff forward a total of 4.5inches and my springs have been limmited in up travel before they negitive arch.They rub just slightly on the firewall now on full lock full compression.If you want springs to last you have to limmit the up travel before the negitive arch or you will be replacing them all the time.I also use the full length of the 9012s in the front now.
Sounds and looks cool.
Well what if my springs have a negative arch at normal ride height - must be a hilux! Anyway, how did you move your diff forward? - did you shift the front hangers at all, are your front shackles longer than stock, and how much longer are your springs than stock?
When limiting compression, did you extend bumpstops adn if so how much.
If I'm asking trade secrets, tell me to piss off!
Well what if my springs have a negative arch at normal ride height - must be a hilux! Anyway, how did you move your diff forward? - did you shift the front hangers at all, are your front shackles longer than stock, and how much longer are your springs than stock?
When limiting compression, did you extend bumpstops adn if so how much.
If I'm asking trade secrets, tell me to piss off!
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you can redrill the hole in front perch. one side has a hole about one inch behind the center hole , take it out to the rigth size and duplicate on the other side. diff will now be positioned in new holes and site 1 inch further forward. to go further put rears up front and move front spring hang forard 1 inch, this will move the diff 3 inchs forward.
hanger 1 INCH
springs 2 INCHS
hanger 1 INCH
springs 2 INCHS
35"s
thanks dudes
if the diff goes foward then ill need a new draglink right???
but if i cut a bit from the guards it should clear ok with 2.5" spring lidt and 2" body lift????? can anyone explain where and how to do this????
panel shop will cost $$$$$
Dave nice tube bar, is that custom or do overkill sell em????
if the diff goes foward then ill need a new draglink right???
but if i cut a bit from the guards it should clear ok with 2.5" spring lidt and 2" body lift????? can anyone explain where and how to do this????
panel shop will cost $$$$$
Dave nice tube bar, is that custom or do overkill sell em????
Blair,
90 2.8D HILUX s/c
33" BFG m/t
90 2.8D HILUX s/c
33" BFG m/t
Nice bar work on the gold 4runner! Do you know if that's custom or off the shelf?
I'd prefer to put another crossmember (say 50x75) through under the front hangers if I was going to space anything forward and rely on the crossmember to lower the hangers.
I'd prefer to put another crossmember (say 50x75) through under the front hangers if I was going to space anything forward and rely on the crossmember to lower the hangers.
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Now that I've looked at it again - I really like the barwork. Is the winch supported by the bar or a separate cradle?
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..
i just ran some 75x50 acroess the chassis and it was simple 2 do but i am gunna cut mine off and move it forward 1.5"
HYPOFAB
Thanks to:
Polyperformance
Yuri 4x4
Longfield
Thanks to:
Polyperformance
Yuri 4x4
Longfield
Same with ARB bars. I know that it looks like the bar supports the winch, but there doesn't seem to be enough support. Obviously there is more than meets the (my) eye.
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Does it have a C section bolting over the original crossmember?
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Sounds very similar to an arb style of mounting but yours looks much more functional.
Sam, I would also be interested in the bar that you make for the lux.
Sam, I would also be interested in the bar that you make for the lux.
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Dudes, I saw the Mighty Lux today with the new tyres and it's starting to look much better. It still needs more lift to clear but should be quite good once the short tray goes on.
Blair, just get a USB scanner from a computer swap meet for around $150. It should be adequate for digitising photos to web quality images.
Blair, just get a USB scanner from a computer swap meet for around $150. It should be adequate for digitising photos to web quality images.
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