Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Defender Faults
Moderator: Micka
Defender Faults
Looking at buying a 1993 Defender Wagon. Anyone know any common faults with these? And possible things to look out for?
Is it a 200Tdi or a 300Tdi? 1993 was about the changeover point.
The 200Tdi is a good engine but has a narrower timing belt than a 300Tdi. The 300Tdi is also a good engine but suffered from misalignment problems with the timing belt pulleys. Land Rover produced a 3-stage kit (depending on vin) to fix the problems. A 1993 300Tdi would need the full kit - you need to check it has been fitted.
The 200Tdi was fitted with the LT77S gearbox and the 300Tdi had the R380. The R380 is stronger, but both the LT77S and very early R380 boxes had problems with rear mainshaft/Tcase input oiling. If fixed early enough it required a new, cross drilled T-case input gear and/or an oil feeder fitted to the rear (pto) cover plate of the T-case. If not caught in time the T-case input gear, gearbox mainshaft, and even 5th gear on the LT77S needs to be replaced. Problems with this issue can be noticed when you go on and off the accelerator and get a loud "clonk" from the drivetrain taking up the extra backlash. The clonk can also be caused by the centre diff or the rear suspension A-Frame ball joint - lock the centre diff and see if the clonk goes away, and check the A frame ball joint.
Also check for leaking PAS box, general oil leaks, suspension bushes, etc.
That is about it besides rust if it has been used on the beach.
The 200Tdi is a good engine but has a narrower timing belt than a 300Tdi. The 300Tdi is also a good engine but suffered from misalignment problems with the timing belt pulleys. Land Rover produced a 3-stage kit (depending on vin) to fix the problems. A 1993 300Tdi would need the full kit - you need to check it has been fitted.
The 200Tdi was fitted with the LT77S gearbox and the 300Tdi had the R380. The R380 is stronger, but both the LT77S and very early R380 boxes had problems with rear mainshaft/Tcase input oiling. If fixed early enough it required a new, cross drilled T-case input gear and/or an oil feeder fitted to the rear (pto) cover plate of the T-case. If not caught in time the T-case input gear, gearbox mainshaft, and even 5th gear on the LT77S needs to be replaced. Problems with this issue can be noticed when you go on and off the accelerator and get a loud "clonk" from the drivetrain taking up the extra backlash. The clonk can also be caused by the centre diff or the rear suspension A-Frame ball joint - lock the centre diff and see if the clonk goes away, and check the A frame ball joint.
Also check for leaking PAS box, general oil leaks, suspension bushes, etc.
That is about it besides rust if it has been used on the beach.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Everything Ben mentioned plus if it is a 300TDI it may have grease filled hubs with shorter drive flanges and shorter softer axle shafts. These are junk and should be replaced with Maxidrive components.
Pry the plastic caps of the rear axles to check that they haven,t been welded to the drive flanges .I have done this myself to keep poverty stricken mates worn out stuff going. This is an old trick started by Bodge It And Scarpa Motors whilst I was on their payroll.
Bill.
Pry the plastic caps of the rear axles to check that they haven,t been welded to the drive flanges .I have done this myself to keep poverty stricken mates worn out stuff going. This is an old trick started by Bodge It And Scarpa Motors whilst I was on their payroll.
Bill.
Thankyou very much
Thanks heaps guys. I dont know whether it is a 200Tdi or a 300Tdi, but i do know it is a 2.5lt tdi.
Re: Thankyou very much
4wdn00b wrote:Thanks heaps guys. I dont know whether it is a 200Tdi or a 300Tdi, but i do know it is a 2.5lt tdi.
Both the 200 and 300Tdi are 2.5L 4-cylinder engines. However it is easy to spot the difference because a 200Tdi sits a lot further back in the engine bay (will be a big gap between engine and radiator and a long fan shroud) and the turbo is very high on the motor.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
OK i can help here.
My Fender is a 200TDI and its a Dec 94 Build. Last of the 200's
Vented front disc came in in mid 93
Solid rear disc at the rear instead of Drum.
LT77S Gearbox and the input gear was shagged, now fixed.
200's had no cooling fan at the front for the Air cond, only the radiator fan.
Most have got Oil Fed bearings, but check it by prising the cap off to see if its been welded. If so be carefull.
Sadly Most Defenders have had a Hard life, they are Trucks and are used as a Truck. I was lucky, mine was a one owner Chick in her 50's who only used 4WD in the Snow.
Expect to pay about $10k for a good 93 model, 95 300's fetch about $13k upwards
I know of a good 95 300tdi Hardtop (3 door) he wants about $8k its in Sydney. Has Dual battery's, Snorkle, Maxi axles few other bits.
Steve
My Fender is a 200TDI and its a Dec 94 Build. Last of the 200's
Vented front disc came in in mid 93
Solid rear disc at the rear instead of Drum.
LT77S Gearbox and the input gear was shagged, now fixed.
200's had no cooling fan at the front for the Air cond, only the radiator fan.
Most have got Oil Fed bearings, but check it by prising the cap off to see if its been welded. If so be carefull.
Sadly Most Defenders have had a Hard life, they are Trucks and are used as a Truck. I was lucky, mine was a one owner Chick in her 50's who only used 4WD in the Snow.
Expect to pay about $10k for a good 93 model, 95 300's fetch about $13k upwards
I know of a good 95 300tdi Hardtop (3 door) he wants about $8k its in Sydney. Has Dual battery's, Snorkle, Maxi axles few other bits.
Steve
1986 County, Auto, Locker, Maxi Crawler gears.
1987 RRC, Auto, Lockers, Himount. POS
1987 RRC, Auto, Lockers, Himount. POS
andrew e wrote:sclarke7171 wrote:
My Fender is a 200TDI and its a Dec 94 Build. Last of the 200's
Steve
thats weird. i had a 4/94 defender 110 ute that was a 300tdi R380(definately factory fitted before you ask). i always assumed that the cutoff point for 200tdis was march.
Andrew.
Tis Strange, unless they ran both as a phase out?
Service manual states last of the 200's were feb 95 in Fenders.
Who would know?
I'm happy with mine. Good package with the disc all round and 200 and a 6 gear carrier in the front all as std.
1986 County, Auto, Locker, Maxi Crawler gears.
1987 RRC, Auto, Lockers, Himount. POS
1987 RRC, Auto, Lockers, Himount. POS
The 300 is an update on the 200. All 300s had the same power output, whereas 200s in Defenders were lower tuned than 200 Discos. The turbo mounting is high on a 200 Defender, but lowish on a 200 Disco.
Supposedly less NVH with the 300, at the cost of more belt problems. But those days are over, really.
Chassis & suspension essentially the same, but the R380 is ther better gearbox.
Regards
Max P
Supposedly less NVH with the 300, at the cost of more belt problems. But those days are over, really.
Chassis & suspension essentially the same, but the R380 is ther better gearbox.
Regards
Max P
Stereo by Simex!
They have been known to land on their roof if you aint careful. I wouldn't buy one for this reason.
MY JEEP BUILD
v840 wrote: [Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
Yep, both 200 and 300 are good engines. As has been said, the 300 has a little more power and torque than a 200 in a Defender (easy to sort that, though ). The 300s also a little more refined. If you speak to some of the big engine reconditioners over here, they reckon the 200s a bit tougher but there's realy not that much in it. One of the bigger downsides with the 200 is the alternator's very low making it very vunerable to mud.
The changeover point was some time early to mid '94, that's when my 90 was built (was an early 300) although Land Rover had a fair few 200s left at that point, most were gone by the end of 1994. In that respect, there's no solid cut off point for 200s, only a start date for 300s
Both LT77S and R380 boxes are pretty tough as long as the main shafts are OK. I reckon the R380s a nicer box to use but the LT77 isn't too bad.
The changeover point was some time early to mid '94, that's when my 90 was built (was an early 300) although Land Rover had a fair few 200s left at that point, most were gone by the end of 1994. In that respect, there's no solid cut off point for 200s, only a start date for 300s
Both LT77S and R380 boxes are pretty tough as long as the main shafts are OK. I reckon the R380s a nicer box to use but the LT77 isn't too bad.
Will Warne
Err, it was a 300tdi Defender 90
Err, it was a 300tdi Defender 90
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests