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Idea for diff breathers. Will it work?

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Idea for diff breathers. Will it work?

Post by ausyota »

I was thinking (always a bad thing :) ) that I could tap a fitting into the side on my air cleaner box and run my front diff breather into it.
I have a snorkle so I would efectivly have my breather at roof height.
Will this work?
Or will there be to much suction from the engine?
What if I run it into the pipe that goes into the aircleaner from the snorkle?
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Re: Idea for diff breathers. Will it work?

Post by suprasurf »

ausyota wrote:I was thinking (always a bad thing :) ) that I could tap a fitting into the side on my air cleaner box and run my front diff breather into it.
I have a snorkle so I would efectivly have my breather at roof height.
Will this work?
Or will there be to much suction from the engine?
What if I run it into the pipe that goes into the aircleaner from the snorkle?
Paul.


You don't want negative air pressure in the diff housing, you really should push compressed air in to the diff at about 4 PSI
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Post by greg »

Ausyota,

If you run your breathers up to somewhere like the engine bay, just mount them with one or more loops in them at the top. This will mean that you have trapped air in there just incase you have water all the way up your fire wall when crossing rivers etc...

note: add one more complete loop in the breather tube for every complete roll over you plan on doing whilst in the water :wink:

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Post by purefmx »

with the remote breathers.... are you running a oneway valve at the end of the? or just the breather hose on its own?
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Post by greg »

purefmx wrote:with the remote breathers.... are you running a oneway valve at the end of the? or just the breather hose on its own?


i gather you are asking me?

i'm just running the breather tube. there is no valve on the top though it was suggested that i could have a little fuel filter or something on them?

the breathers i am running were installed by ARB when they fitted my air lockers - cost 100 bucks from and rear fully installed... good insurance to protect those lockers i thought.

i was actually thinking that a smart thing to do would be to put a rubber baloon over them - that would expand if the air heated up a little... no doubt it would get weathered after a while, but would be cheap to replace, and you never know when a baloon will come in handy :D
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Post by grimbo »

just use a chemical/oil resistance hose and run it up high with a bend at the top into a fuel filter. Very cheap and effective way to insure against water entry. As to running into your air cleaner you don't want it to be drawing the air out of the diff under suction. The idea with vents is to let air out when needed not constantly. Can't imagine it would be a good thing for the diffs if there was a backfire and the sudden increase in air pressure, probably force oil out of the axle seals (maybe)
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Post by purefmx »

Yeah Greg, anyone actually, I tend to use the little oneway valves, such as the ones on early pollution gear (ex air pump etc). I know that if i ran remote breathers into the engine bay that they would basically serve no purpose as when im in the mud or water, the depths are usually greater than the top inside of the engine bay. I need to route both breathers into the engine bay and then add oneway breathers on the ends to prevent excess water or moisture finding its way in.
If the breathers didnt have the valve, all it takes is one gut full of water to find its way in and its all over redrover. The idea of the fuel filter is ok, however, keep in mind that fuel filters are designed to flow liquid i.e fuel, so inturn it is still possible for moisture or water to make its way past the filter and into your housing, only in the most extreme of cases.
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Post by ausyota »

ok so the air intake idea was a bad one
was just an idea I had floating around in my head.

IDEA No 2.

I might run a hose up inside my roll bar on my tray.
That will get em nice and high!
Do you guys reckon that will be too long a hose from the front diff?
Should I use a larger diameter hose to compensate for the long length?
Thanks
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Post by grimbo »

the extra length shouldn't be a worry as it is not great volumes of air. As long as it can expell the heated air and suck in the colder it should be ok. Into the roll bar is not a bad idea. My rear breather exits on my roll bar and the front one is up behind the battery in the engine bay where it is nicely shielded
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Post by BUNDERA »

I extended mine to the firewall using fuel hose and put the original valves on the top. see image below.

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Post by RUFF »

purefmx wrote:Yeah Greg, anyone actually, I tend to use the little oneway valves, such as the ones on early pollution gear (ex air pump etc). I know that if i ran remote breathers into the engine bay that they would basically serve no purpose as when im in the mud or water, the depths are usually greater than the top inside of the engine bay. I need to route both breathers into the engine bay and then add oneway breathers on the ends to prevent excess water or moisture finding its way in.
If the breathers didnt have the valve, all it takes is one gut full of water to find its way in and its all over redrover. The idea of the fuel filter is ok, however, keep in mind that fuel filters are designed to flow liquid i.e fuel, so inturn it is still possible for moisture or water to make its way past the filter and into your housing, only in the most extreme of cases.



What ever you do DO_ NOT fit one way valves otherwise you will suck water straight through the axle and pinion seals the first time you enter water.

When the diff is hot it pushes air out of the diff, when it is cooled rapidly it sucks air into the diff and if there is a one way valve fitted it will turn the seals inside out as it creats a vacume in the diff.

Make 2 loops at the top and of the breather and then fit a pair of fuel filters.

Without extended breathers the main reason a diff sucks oil in is because the factory fitted breather becomes blocked with mud and it cant breath so the seals wear out fast and the first time you enter water it just runs in past the damaged seals.
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Post by RUFF »

Also make sure you use good quality re-inforced hose so it doesnt colapse and the larger the hose the better.
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Post by suprasurf »

I've found that no matter how big the breathers are water will still make its way in. Theres quite a bit of water pressure when you start getting in to the deep stuff ( water over the door handles - happen alot round here 8) )

A cheap method is to buy a 12v airbed pump and fit a 4-5 PSI bleed valve. Hook this up to your diff breathers and switch on when entering the wet stuff, If you run a compressor on board the make a second line from the tank @ 4PSI for the diffs.
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Post by Zookymatt »

Don't be fooled by the simplicity of the looped hoses. It is physically impossible for water to get into the hose with a loop in it (unless you roll over while submerged :shock:).

I run three loops in my vents which are located in my engine bay, a fuel filter on the open end wouldn't hurt though.

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Post by grimbo »

the fuel filter is just that nice added insurance by itself isn't secure but combined with the extended inatke and a couple of bends adds up to cheap insurance
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Post by RUFF »

Zookymatt wrote:Don't be fooled by the simplicity of the looped hoses. It is physically impossible for water to get into the hose with a loop in it (unless you roll over while submerged :shock:).

I run three loops in my vents which are located in my engine bay, a fuel filter on the open end wouldn't hurt though.

Regards,
Matt.


Its not usually the hose that lets the water in its usually through the seals because the hose can not flow enough air when the diff is cooled.

I think Supra surfs idea is the best.This is also good for sealing alternators,distributors and winches.
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Post by BUNDERA »

I removed the rubber piece out of the "one way valves' that come stock on toyota vehicles so the cap acts like a dust cap rather and not a seal.

This stops the problem with air not being let back into the diff, as RUFF mentioned.

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Post by BeZeRK »

Ruff, i agree with you completly.

whats the point of the filter??? Worried that if the water does go in it will be dirty??? :finger:

we simply put the loop in and have not had a problem with any of them. Use a large diameter hose and thats about as good asz it gets.

The air compressor idea would be good, if you do ALOT of water driving, comp rig or so, but for the general preson, stick with the loops!
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Post by RUFF »

BeZeRK wrote:Ruff, i agree with you completly.

whats the point of the filter??? Worried that if the water does go in it will be dirty??? :finger:



To filter the Air jackass :roll:
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Post by BeZeRK »

going overboard... :? i just think that it would reck the point if having a large diam. hose, it would restrict the breathing even more!
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