welding my diff???

Post by **calelux** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 8:58 pm

just wanted to know if welding my back diff in my mq patrol will break anything, like rear axles etcc
im running 35s
have not got the money to buy a locker and i have a spare diff center there so i thought i could just weld it!!

Post by **ToyTruck** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 10:13 pm

SEARCH

THEN WELD IT :armsup:

Post by **brad-chevlux** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 10:20 pm

thats a messy diff.

it's stronger if you weld the gears to carrier. the way you have in the pic still puts all the torque through the pinion pins and they tend to break

Post by **RUFF** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 10:24 pm

brad-chevlux wrote:thats a messy diff.

it's stronger if you weld the gears to carrier. the way you have in the pic still puts all the torque through the pinion pins and they tend to break

I have never seen a pin break after welding a Hilux/cruiser diff this way. But wwelding the gears to the carrier i have seen many fail as the cast does not weld well and it tends to crack afterwards.

Post by **MY45** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 11:13 pm

brad-chevlux wrote:thats a messy diff.

it's stronger if you weld the gears to carrier. the way you have in the pic still puts all the torque through the pinion pins and they tend to break

It might look messy but you really need to overkill the welding, cut a plate that will fit into it. then put your axels in and tack the plate (allows enough room to put the axels al the way in), remove them then weld the crappers out of it! There isnt much chance of breaking an axel un less u are totally crazy with the right boot. Oh and to keep the gears free of weld spatter, u can by anti spatter areosol cans

Post by **Tiny** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 1:03 pm

RUFF wrote:
brad-chevlux wrote:thats a messy diff.

it's stronger if you weld the gears to carrier. the way you have in the pic still puts all the torque through the pinion pins and they tend to break

I have never seen a pin break after welding a Hilux/cruiser diff this way. But wwelding the gears to the carrier i have seen many fail as the cast does not weld well and it tends to crack afterwards.

have seen them preheated, then cooled in a heavy blanket overnight still crack

Post by **mattsluxtruck** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 4:26 pm

stuff buying anti spatter spray and paying a fortune for it. use good old 99c spray pak cooking oil like that is used on the barbie. was told this by father outlaw who is an ex welder didnt believe it until i tried it myself. it works its the same thing!

Post by **Eddywelder** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 4:45 pm

mattsluxtruck wrote:stuff buying anti spatter spray and paying a fortune for it. use good old 99c spray pak cooking oil like that is used on the barbie. was told this by father outlaw who is an ex welder didnt believe it until i tried it myself. it works its the same thing!

yep as he said the good ol no name canola cooking spray from your local supermaket ....use it all the time at some places I have worked...

Post by **shakes** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 6:01 pm

Use lead..

I've seen it done, never done it myself, but it has a lil more give and alot less likely to snap/crack/break gears, axles and the like.

was recomended to us by more than one old school rally dude.

Post by **ToyTruck** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 7:16 pm

i have seen lead used on a light weight RALLY car and it only lasted 1 week

so i dont think it would last in my 2 tonne cruiser :roll:

Post by **360 scout** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 9:15 pm

stuff buying anti spatter spray and paying a fortune for it. use good old 99c spray pak cooking oil like that is used on the barbie. was told this by father outlaw who is an ex welder didnt believe it until i tried it myself. it works its the same thing!

I use it to ! only trouble is I get the munchies every time I'm welding !!

Post by **mugginsmoo** » Fri Apr 29, 2005 10:25 pm

i've used lead in a light weight zook, lasted longer that the 2 year of abuse i gave it on and off road. never touched it
the zook ran swampers with no air (1 psi), must have been heaps of load on the diff, no problems. it's all on how much prep you do before you pour in the lead

Post by **ISUZUROVER** » Sat Apr 30, 2005 12:13 am

mooman wrote:i've used lead in a light weight zook, lasted longer that the 2 year of abuse i gave it on and off road. never touched it
the zook ran swampers with no air (1 psi), must have been heaps of load on the diff, no problems. it's all on how much prep you do before you pour in the lead

But a welded diff is already heavy enough, a diff full of lead would be ridiculously heavy!!!

Post by **mugginsmoo** » Sat Apr 30, 2005 9:26 am

nar.

in a zook they have only got a small space that you can fill with lead.
all the spider and side gears are contained within a really small housing. so i don't know how well it would work with a nissan of lux diff, probably need too much lead :?:

took less than a kilo of lead to fill a zook diff.

Post by **shakes** » Mon May 02, 2005 5:02 pm

I've seen a lead welded diff hold together for close to 2 full seasons (less 3 races) of the VRC and several auto crosses in a stanze,

and 10 -15 plus drift outings and nearly 60 pairs of rear tires in a toyota sprinter.

I've never tried it in a 4x4, i dont plan to, I've seen the damage welded diff's can do on the road. If you can hold out for a few weeks and find a 2nd hand locker/complete diff. you better off with that avenue

Post by **ToyTruck** » Mon May 02, 2005 6:51 pm

The welded is FINE on the road ....... :twisted:

you just gotta learn to steer with the throttle :twisted:

Post by **red80** » Mon May 02, 2005 7:06 pm

pre heat it first, use flux core wire and this allows you to weld the gears to the carrier (smells like crap but well suited to welding cast steel) don't weld the pins and use plenty of splatter gaurd (or cooking spray) I did this to hilux diffs in race cars and they lasted hundreds of passes (10 and 11 sec) on slicks with no drammas

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welding my diff???

welding my diff???

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