Auto problem

[Mudrat]

recently, i have noticed that especially when cold my torqueflight box requires more revs etc to to engage and thus get the vehicle moving. Is this a torque convertor problem or further avield? The vehicle in question is 1985 Rangie with 4.6L conversion.

Also the other day i was towing a considerable load and when I stopped there was alot of fluid coming out between the engine and g.box. Is this g.box front seel or is the torque convertor shot and thus contribuiting to my lack of drive. I have re-filled the g.box with fluid etc and still no improvemnet in drive.

Thanks in advance

[Aquarangie]

If it's leaking from your auto, I would say (don't hold me to this, I'm not an expert on autos ) that your torque converter is shot or the front seal is gone on the box itself.

if it's slipping on a reguar basis, get it serviced pronto I remember my 84 Rangie did this (torque-flitew like yours), didn't bother about it and the 'box crapped itself 3 months later

Torque-flites require a bit of a boot to get going especially a 3.5 gutless job like mine was, let alone a 4.6.

Anyway, good luck with it.

Trav

[Mudrat]

I had the bands adjusted a couple of months ago, and they did say that they were on the last adjustment and then a replacment would be needed, thought i would get a bit more life out of it though It does require a fair few revs now to get moving, a lot more than when i first got it anyway.

[Aquarangie]

If that's the case, it's ZF time

Much beter auto 'box and works well with the 4.6 power you have. Just put one in my 83 (3.5 with the original clunker LT95, which also crapped itself recently). Worth all the sweat, straining and spanner throwing spent doing it.

Trav

[Loanrangie]

Trav, how did you go with the kickdown cable of the zf? Was it easy enough to adapt to the strommies?

[Mudrat]

I am keen to do the conversion just $ holding back, basically I did a bit of a search on here and I believe this conversion is relatively easy. Basically, i want to know is it a direct swap, and or what has to be modified ie the kick down cables as mentioned earlier. I am particularly interested in the interior mods to suit obviously the 4 speed selection now. What have others done with this? i am just trying to get my bearings as to what is the best way to attack this problem before any real $ are spent, so sorry for the questions that probably have simple answers.

Cheers

[Aquarangie]

Trav, how did you go with the kickdown cable of the zf? Was it easy enough to adapt to the strommies?

I was able to re-fab the spinndle on the accelerator cable end to adapt the kickdown. It's still needs adjustment (going off to the auto specalist for a service next week). I just used some strip steel and drilled the required hjioles. not pretty, but it works.

The mount I just drilled 2 holes in the rocker cover and that holds the cable in.

Trav

[Loanrangie]

I am keen to do the conversion just $ holding back, basically I did a bit of a search on here and I believe this conversion is relatively easy. Basically, i want to know is it a direct swap, and or what has to be modified ie the kick down cables as mentioned earlier. I am particularly interested in the interior mods to suit obviously the 4 speed selection now. What have others done with this? i am just trying to get my bearings as to what is the best way to attack this problem before any real $ are spent, so sorry for the questions that probably have simple answers.

Cheers

I am in the same boat except my t/flite is in good nic. From what i can gather, the zf is a direct bolt in there is only the kickdown cable and the shifter to adapt - you will need the zf shifter and then mod the trans tunnel to suit.