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2h OIL PRESSURE
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
2h OIL PRESSURE
Posting this for a mate with a hj62 . Of late the oil pressure has been very high. Fitting a master gauge confirmed the fact dash gauge wasn't telling lies. Traced fault to worn pressure relief valve in timing case. Has anyone found if its possible to sleave the original timing cover to rectify this problem? Toyota don't have any new timing case’s in Australia ATM and retail price is aprox $1500 .
Any help with a work around much appreciated. I suggested him selling it and getting a GQ
Any help with a work around much appreciated. I suggested him selling it and getting a GQ
2005 TD 100 series GXl wagon . Stock except bar and tyres . Plan on doing lots of touring in this one.
I heard of a place that sells a custom plunger which is longer meaning it doesnt glide into the step whiuch is worn on the bore. I will try to remember who had this.
Many people have solved the problem by linished the bore slightly with a dowel and emry tape. I did this to mine just recently.
also replace the plunger when you linish the bore. Theyre about $15 with a spring from toyota.
The extended plunger would be a good fix. You could get one made up at an engineering show im sure. Shouldnt take long. Its pretty basic really. Just make the plunger about 5mm longer so that the step in the bore wont catch the plunger anymore.
See Picture.
Many people have solved the problem by linished the bore slightly with a dowel and emry tape. I did this to mine just recently.
also replace the plunger when you linish the bore. Theyre about $15 with a spring from toyota.
The extended plunger would be a good fix. You could get one made up at an engineering show im sure. Shouldnt take long. Its pretty basic really. Just make the plunger about 5mm longer so that the step in the bore wont catch the plunger anymore.
See Picture.
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Thanks for that info, much appreciated. if you can remember who makes these modified plungers it would be a big help. Want this thing to be reliable. Nothing worse than having problems like this in the back of your mind during a trip.
Thanks again for the info so far.
Thanks again for the info so far.
2005 TD 100 series GXl wagon . Stock except bar and tyres . Plan on doing lots of touring in this one.
I believe ENGINES AUSTRALIA in Dalby QLD do them.
I have also fixed this problem by drilling a hole in the case behind the valve so the pressure bleeds back into the sump. This was done with the engine pulled apart. Very hard to explain without pics -to hard now engine is running fine.
I have also fixed this problem by drilling a hole in the case behind the valve so the pressure bleeds back into the sump. This was done with the engine pulled apart. Very hard to explain without pics -to hard now engine is running fine.
I'm not stuck I'm over here!
Watch where you driven!!!
Watch where you driven!!!
Thanks for the info. Would love to try the modified valve as it sure beats removing the cover. Worst coming to worst what size hole did you drill in the timing case to the rear of the valve?
Think I found the engine center you refered to
Dalby Engine Rebuilders
15 Loudoun Road
DALBY QLD 4405
1300555350
Tried calling but shut on weekends, will give them a bell on Monday.
Think I found the engine center you refered to
Dalby Engine Rebuilders
15 Loudoun Road
DALBY QLD 4405
1300555350
Tried calling but shut on weekends, will give them a bell on Monday.
2005 TD 100 series GXl wagon . Stock except bar and tyres . Plan on doing lots of touring in this one.
digging up an old threadskootin wrote:I believe ENGINES AUSTRALIA in Dalby QLD do them.
I have also fixed this problem by drilling a hole in the case behind the valve so the pressure bleeds back into the sump. This was done with the engine pulled apart. Very hard to explain without pics -to hard now engine is running fine.
I notice you suggest drilling a hole to bleed the pressure back, i believe this is what the hole and recessed ring at the top of the piston is for? it lets the pressure bleed through the bypass hole when the piston is closed. (could just be for lubrication though)
with the worn piston there could be too much oil getting past which means the little hole cant keep up, which would explain why my pressure is fine (if a little low) when im at running temperature (thinner oil and plenty time for oil to bleed out)
Perhaps enlarging the hole in the side of the piston, or adding another hole(or two) could perform the same action as drilling a purpose bypass hole in the timing case.
I cant believe toyota would design this without thinking of the hydraulic complications of oil leaking past the piston, so im convinced the hole and "ring" in the piston is for this purpose.
I might also try getting another nut from the wreckers and drilling a hole in it to see just how much leaks past the piston, and this should also confirm it is indeed the pressure buildup behind the piston causing the problem, and not a step in the bore as many people seem to suggest (cannot feel a step in the bore myself).
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