What do I do to get 38" under a GU?

Post by **roverrat** » Thu Jul 07, 2005 8:32 pm

Sorry guys an Girls prob already repeated b4

What is the best lift (without cutting guards) to get 38" tyres under a GU

I stress that it cannot (repeat cannot) rub on any guards.... body trims (chassis ok tho)

I was leaning towards wizard 7" lift will this suffice for offroad? Do I need body lift to ensure no rubbing occurs?

I need diff clearance for snow purposes so all help or info will be appreciated.

Post by **bogged** » Thu Jul 07, 2005 9:08 pm

roverrat wrote:Sorry guys an Girls prob already repeated b4

What is the best lift (without cutting guards) to get 38" tyres under a GU

I stress that it cannot (repeat cannot) rub on any guards.... body trims (chassis ok tho)

I was leaning towards wizard 7" lift will this suffice for offroad? Do I need body lift to ensure no rubbing occurs?

I need diff clearance for snow purposes so all help or info will be appreciated.

have a look at Morkz lift kit in the forsale section

Post by **thunder** » Fri Jul 08, 2005 2:52 pm

ive got a GU ute and just put 38.5 boggers 4"suspension and 2"body lift.
nothung rubs yet but i HAVE NOT flexed it up yet too see where it will hit.

is your gu a ute or wagon

Post by **WHITEWIZARD** » Fri Jul 08, 2005 4:41 pm

Well i got 37 with a 6" lift and 2" body and rubs on the front gaurd down the bottom near the flare when flexed, it is a easy fix with a bit of a trim. you'll find with 4"lift and above won't rub, untill you flex. Straight 7" lift though should be all good you'll have to trim the bottom of the front gaurd and if it's a wagon the back too of course.

Sat Jul 09, 2005 10:14 am

WHITEWIZARD wrote:Well i got 37 with a 6" lift and 2" body and rubs on the front gaurd down the bottom near the flare when flexed, it is a easy fix with a bit of a trim. you'll find with 4"lift and above won't rub, untill you flex. Straight 7" lift though should be all good you'll have to trim the bottom of the front gaurd and if it's a wagon the back too of course.

Best way to avoid this is to put a spacer kit in the front arms , This will move it forward around 15mm, That way the tyres will not hit.

Post by **BIG GQ** » Sat Jul 09, 2005 5:16 pm

I do agree with the spacers Darren but at the end of the day it is always going to hit in some situations unless you trim the guards. It can be done really neatly and you will not even realise it has been done until you get 2 GU's side by side and have a good look. You guys know I run a wizard 7" kit with 4" bodylift and 37" claws and I haven't trimmed the guards. Now when I do a jump or dip the front end hard my 37's hit the back of the front guards. I do have 5 link front in though.

Now if the GU is a wagon you will definately have to do a lot of guard trimming and loose the rear guarters to avoid 38's rubbing on the back.

Post by **GQ4.8coilcab** » Sat Jul 09, 2005 10:29 pm

A 4 inch lift with Big Balls control arm spacers and a tad modifying of the gaurds should clear 38's. Just get the right wheel off set to put the wheel in the right place when articulating.

Post by **roverrat** » Sun Jul 10, 2005 8:58 am

Thanks guys for the feedback .. I more question who sell wizard gear here in melbourne?

Post by **thunder** » Sun Jul 10, 2005 6:54 pm

i flexed my ute up with 38s and the front hit the radius arms lock to lock.
the rear hit the tray mounts.rims i brought said -25 on them.
4"suspension 2"body

Post by **GQ4.8coilcab** » Sun Jul 10, 2005 8:59 pm

Yer, its a fine art to know what the right wheel offset is. It is funny cause tou ask around and they all give u different answers. Most of it is in trial and error. It can be a very expensive trial and error as well. What i would reccomend, is get tires on standard rims and put washers behind the wheel to various thickness, then turn the sterring wheel while the car is jacked up, then jack up one side more then the other to get a rough idea where the wheel wil sit. Then get your wheels when you found what the best offset it. Hey Thunder you must have wide 38's if they hit, and it may also be cause u went a negative offset.

Post by **GUJohnno** » Sun Jul 10, 2005 9:16 pm

"What do I do to get 38" under a GU?"

... buy a bigger jack...

Post by **thunder** » Sun Jul 10, 2005 9:29 pm

GQ4.8coilcab wrote:Yer, its a fine art to know what the right wheel offset is. It is funny cause tou ask around and they all give u different answers. Most of it is in trial and error. It can be a very expensive trial and error as well. What i would reccomend, is get tires on standard rims and put washers behind the wheel to various thickness, then turn the sterring wheel while the car is jacked up, then jack up one side more then the other to get a rough idea where the wheel wil sit. Then get your wheels when you found what the best offset it. Hey Thunder you must have wide 38's if they hit, and it may also be cause u went a negative offset.

my r 38.5 x 11x16 boggers.
the rims i got sit almost at the edge of my flares.
the 15x10 rims(claws r on ) sit only a couple of mm further.
i think for me.my options are spacers or cut the rims.

Post by **GQ4.8coilcab** » Mon Jul 11, 2005 11:33 am

Or get Glen Binskin to make u a set of kevler fenders with extra width inbuilt. He has them made for GQ's, im sure he could knock somthing up for a GU. And there not too badly priced those panels.

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What do I do to get 38" under a GU?

What do I do to get 38" under a GU?

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