It will be happening too as I've just had to do a few mods and there's no going back now......
PS: I thought the thermo off an Applause could be a straight bolt on- wrong, totally different radiator.
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Electric fans and Ferozas
Moderator: Tiny
Electric fans and Ferozas
Has anyone taken the plunge and converted over to an electric thermo fan? I've decided to convert mine over seeing as the viscous hub on my old one seems to be cactus.
It will be happening too as I've just had to do a few mods and there's no going back now......
PS: I thought the thermo off an Applause could be a straight bolt on- wrong, totally different radiator.
It will be happening too as I've just had to do a few mods and there's no going back now......
PS: I thought the thermo off an Applause could be a straight bolt on- wrong, totally different radiator.
David
Besty did you put a larger radiator in with the V6? Or have you still got the stock one?
I just drove about 20km with no fan whatsoever. It warmed up quicker, sounds a lot better, free revs a lot faster (up and down the rev range) and didn't overheat. Lucky I didn't get caught in any traffic- otherwise I would have been switching the aircon on and hoping the condensor thermo could do the job!
I just drove about 20km with no fan whatsoever. It warmed up quicker, sounds a lot better, free revs a lot faster (up and down the rev range) and didn't overheat. Lucky I didn't get caught in any traffic- otherwise I would have been switching the aircon on and hoping the condensor thermo could do the job!
David
OK. Everythings nearly finished.
Ended up with a 12" Daviescraig thermo fan, only because I could get one cheap. I was originally looking at one from the wreckers.
I also got a thermo switch from an Applause engine as I figure that will be set at the perfect temp for the HDE engine. That's been mounted into the steel coolant piping that runs above the exhaust manifold. The Feroza engine doesn't have the mounting point that the Applause engine does.
I've had a "frame" made up to mount the fan onto which fits onto the radiator exactly as the standard factory shroud did. Will post pics later today. Many thanks to my father inlaw once again...
The interesting bit is I've done a lot of driving with no fan fitted and haven't even looked like overheating! It has only gone close to half way once on the temp guage.
There is a definite power increase too , previously the power seemed to die around 5500rpm- now it likes the higher revs a lot more. Seems more responsive at lower revs too.
Ended up with a 12" Daviescraig thermo fan, only because I could get one cheap. I was originally looking at one from the wreckers.
I also got a thermo switch from an Applause engine as I figure that will be set at the perfect temp for the HDE engine. That's been mounted into the steel coolant piping that runs above the exhaust manifold. The Feroza engine doesn't have the mounting point that the Applause engine does.
I've had a "frame" made up to mount the fan onto which fits onto the radiator exactly as the standard factory shroud did. Will post pics later today. Many thanks to my father inlaw once again...
The interesting bit is I've done a lot of driving with no fan fitted and haven't even looked like overheating! It has only gone close to half way once on the temp guage.
There is a definite power increase too
, previously the power seemed to die around 5500rpm- now it likes the higher revs a lot more. Seems more responsive at lower revs too.David
OK, here are some pics.
The first one is of the old fan and viscous hub. I ended up cutting the back section of the old hub off because the bolts on the water pump don't have thread on their entire length. I had to either do this or find some really thick washers- decided on this method as it also strengthens the water pump pulley. Look how thick the steel on the hub is (whole assy is very heavy!)
Second pic is of the hub back section cut off and painted.
The first one is of the old fan and viscous hub. I ended up cutting the back section of the old hub off because the bolts on the water pump don't have thread on their entire length. I had to either do this or find some really thick washers- decided on this method as it also strengthens the water pump pulley. Look how thick the steel on the hub is (whole assy is very heavy!)
Second pic is of the hub back section cut off and painted.
David
Last photos....
First one is the steel frame that was made to fit onto the existing mounting points for the factory shroud. The fan is mounted off to one side so as to ensure that with both the condensor fan and the new thermo the entire radiator is covered.
Second pic is it bolted into place on the radiator.
First one is the steel frame that was made to fit onto the existing mounting points for the factory shroud. The fan is mounted off to one side so as to ensure that with both the condensor fan and the new thermo the entire radiator is covered.
Second pic is it bolted into place on the radiator.
David
Yep, you're right Leon!
Hopefully it won't get so messy next time as most of that was flicked up by the old viscous fan when I crossed a very stirred up creek. Need to give it a good clean this weekend as we're starting water restrictions next week here in SA.
I'm going to put a disable switch inside the cabin for the new fan.
Hopefully it won't get so messy next time as most of that was flicked up by the old viscous fan when I crossed a very stirred up creek. Need to give it a good clean this weekend as we're starting water restrictions next week here in SA.
I'm going to put a disable switch inside the cabin for the new fan.
David
Seeing as how the coolant is one of the lifebloods of our engines, I think its pretty damn important to treat the heart of it (radiator) correctly. Has anyone bothered to remove their radiator and internally clean the cores. Im not talking about hosing out the mud and crap from the outside, nor am I talking about running some coolant system cleaner through the system.
I had all sorts of problems with running hot when towing, or when on a trip, usually up in the top 2/3s of the gauge. With a lift kit, the problem was worse, as the shroud was modified so as not to hit the fan (bottom half was removed from shroud.)
With a new engine, came the opportunity to remove the rdiator, remove top and bottom tanks, and ream the cores. Even after about 6 years of exclusively running the correct coolant through the system, over half the cores were either partially or fully blocked. Firstly, an old dipstick, then a piece of close fitting stainless steel strap were reamed through each individual core. A blast with high pressure water then air cleaned them up nicely. Refitting both tanks, and new coolant saw a consistant temp of around 1/3 on the gauge, no matter what towing, or distance driving I do. Slow speed, High speed, whatever, it makes no difference now. And just to be certain, the coolant was changed after a couple of months, and the thermostat was checked for correct operation.
It really did make a difference, and goes to show, in my opinion, that radiator maintenance isnt always restricted to checking for correct coolant level.
I had all sorts of problems with running hot when towing, or when on a trip, usually up in the top 2/3s of the gauge. With a lift kit, the problem was worse, as the shroud was modified so as not to hit the fan (bottom half was removed from shroud.)
With a new engine, came the opportunity to remove the rdiator, remove top and bottom tanks, and ream the cores. Even after about 6 years of exclusively running the correct coolant through the system, over half the cores were either partially or fully blocked. Firstly, an old dipstick, then a piece of close fitting stainless steel strap were reamed through each individual core. A blast with high pressure water then air cleaned them up nicely. Refitting both tanks, and new coolant saw a consistant temp of around 1/3 on the gauge, no matter what towing, or distance driving I do. Slow speed, High speed, whatever, it makes no difference now. And just to be certain, the coolant was changed after a couple of months, and the thermostat was checked for correct operation.
It really did make a difference, and goes to show, in my opinion, that radiator maintenance isnt always restricted to checking for correct coolant level.
Mud makes excellent toothpaste.
Yes, totally agree.
Most people buy cheaper coolant for their vehicles, in the case of most you need a 50/50 mix of ethyl glycol (I think that's the correct name ) But to get that strength in the Tectalloy range you need to get the 4yr/100000 km stuff (around $25 for 5l)- Ferozas need a 50/50 mix.
A few tips for Feroza owners:
1. If replacing your thermostat don't let them sell you a Stant ST4-180 thermostat! That's the correct one going by the book, but doesn't fit- I found out the hard way yesterday. It's only 48mm diameter and the Feroza needs 52mm! The gasket is a rubber O ring type arrangement too, and a Falcon one just happens to match.
2. Check your hoses carefully on the inlet and outlet alloy housings on the engine. Mine had nearly burst from a crusty build up on the alloy ballooning the hose.
See pic below.
Most people buy cheaper coolant for their vehicles, in the case of most you need a 50/50 mix of ethyl glycol (I think that's the correct name
) But to get that strength in the Tectalloy range you need to get the 4yr/100000 km stuff (around $25 for 5l)- Ferozas need a 50/50 mix.
A few tips for Feroza owners:
1. If replacing your thermostat don't let them sell you a Stant ST4-180 thermostat! That's the correct one going by the book, but doesn't fit- I found out the hard way yesterday. It's only 48mm diameter and the Feroza needs 52mm! The gasket is a rubber O ring type arrangement too, and a Falcon one just happens to match.
2. Check your hoses carefully on the inlet and outlet alloy housings on the engine. Mine had nearly burst from a crusty build up on the alloy ballooning the hose.
See pic below.David
G-day David,
Just curious how your new electric thermo fan is going? Im considering doing it as well, cause I figured, rather than replace the shroud which was smashed into a few pieces, maybe I should go electric fan instead and gain a bit of extra power as well.
If you stil have the measurements for the frame that your father in law made, mate I think it would help out a couple of other guys that are considering doing it as well.
Thanks,
Rod
Just curious how your new electric thermo fan is going? Im considering doing it as well, cause I figured, rather than replace the shroud which was smashed into a few pieces, maybe I should go electric fan instead and gain a bit of extra power as well.
If you stil have the measurements for the frame that your father in law made, mate I think it would help out a couple of other guys that are considering doing it as well.
Thanks,
Rod
0-100 in 2 hrs.
Hi Rod, I ended up wiring the air con thermo to come on as well as the new fan- just to be sure it won't overheat in warm weather. The thermo only comes on when I'm caught in traffic, but no doubt once the weather warms up it will be on a lot more.
I didn't actually take any measurements for the frame- it was all made up on the spot using the old shroud for the template.
The engine responds a lot better to light throttle inputs and feels like its gained some power. It now free revs up and down lightning fast compared to before. I've been montioring fuel conumption since I first bought it and will have to work out if I've actually improved the fuel economy.
I didn't actually take any measurements for the frame- it was all made up on the spot using the old shroud for the template.
The engine responds a lot better to light throttle inputs and feels like its gained some power. It now free revs up and down lightning fast compared to before. I've been montioring fuel conumption since I first bought it and will have to work out if I've actually improved the fuel economy.
David
G'Day All,
I ended up with Mike H.'s fan and mounted it in front of the radiator...no air conditioning. I cut out some chunk of metal with the trusty angle grinder to get it to fit. In the process I nicked the radiator with the angle grinder and had to pull it out to solder it up. The install should have taken about an hour but I spent four hours with the patch job.
I tore my fan shroud off about four years ago and the truck has never overheated even in 100 degree F. I don't know whether it is because it sits higher than stock. Body lift and the radiator two inches lower.
Now with the shock hoops installed I have BIG holes in the fender wells. I have a problem of getting any heat out in the winter time even with the radiator completely blocked with a piece of cardboard. Sometimes down to 20 below 0 F. I am hoping with the variable thermostat that I can adjust for winter mode and not freeze the goonads off this winter.
There is a noticable increase in power over having the clutch fan.
Another advantage is turning off the fan for water crossings. Before the fan, without the shroud, would throw water up into the K&N air filter. I kept the engine running but had to be winched out of the river. The truck coughed and sputtered for 15-20 minutes after I was out. I think that you can pay to have this done...water injected carbon clense. I have avoided water crossings above the fan height since.
I have an extra pully point now and can rig up an air condition pump for airing up the tyres. The electric fan is one of the best mods I have done. Goodonya Mike!
I ended up with Mike H.'s fan and mounted it in front of the radiator...no air conditioning. I cut out some chunk of metal with the trusty angle grinder to get it to fit. In the process I nicked the radiator with the angle grinder and had to pull it out to solder it up. The install should have taken about an hour but I spent four hours with the patch job.
I tore my fan shroud off about four years ago and the truck has never overheated even in 100 degree F. I don't know whether it is because it sits higher than stock. Body lift and the radiator two inches lower.
Now with the shock hoops installed I have BIG holes in the fender wells. I have a problem of getting any heat out in the winter time even with the radiator completely blocked with a piece of cardboard. Sometimes down to 20 below 0 F. I am hoping with the variable thermostat that I can adjust for winter mode and not freeze the goonads off this winter.
There is a noticable increase in power over having the clutch fan.
Another advantage is turning off the fan for water crossings. Before the fan, without the shroud, would throw water up into the K&N air filter. I kept the engine running but had to be winched out of the river. The truck coughed and sputtered for 15-20 minutes after I was out. I think that you can pay to have this done...water injected carbon clense. I have avoided water crossings above the fan height since.
I have an extra pully point now and can rig up an air condition pump for airing up the tyres. The electric fan is one of the best mods I have done. Goodonya Mike!
Hi Kent, I've got problems with mine running cold in winter too. Anything below about 8 degrees celcius and it takes ages to warm up. I've also noticed the temperature gauge will fluctuate up and down a lot - if I drive up to around 80km/h from 50km/h on a cold morning I can immediately see the gauge temp drop.
I went to the trouble of fitting a new thermostat, but that has only made a small difference. I think it's a case of the thermostat not reponding quick enough to the coolant temperature change. Basically I put it down to a characterisitc of this engine and just live with it. Leon told me once he has similar problems (he's got a clutch fan) and changed his thermostat with no discernable difference too.
I agree with the water crossings. I did one before I installed the elec fan and ended up with muddy water sprayed right though the engine bay. I was glad I didn't have an open K&N filter.... I'm making up a timer circuit to go in the wiring for my elec fan that will disable the fan for say 1 min and then automatically enable it again. A switch will be mounted on the dash to start the delay before entering any water.
I went to the trouble of fitting a new thermostat, but that has only made a small difference. I think it's a case of the thermostat not reponding quick enough to the coolant temperature change. Basically I put it down to a characterisitc of this engine and just live with it. Leon told me once he has similar problems (he's got a clutch fan) and changed his thermostat with no discernable difference too.
I agree with the water crossings. I did one before I installed the elec fan and ended up with muddy water sprayed right though the engine bay. I was glad I didn't have an open K&N filter....
I'm making up a timer circuit to go in the wiring for my elec fan that will disable the fan for say 1 min and then automatically enable it again. A switch will be mounted on the dash to start the delay before entering any water.David
G'Day David,
I too changed my thermostat and still froze the goonads off last winter These trucks just don't run very hot. Makes me wish that I had an aux heater like the FJ40. Maybe if I block the radiator and turn the fan off it will warm up. Your timer circuit sounds interesting and would like a schematic if you can.
I am working on preliminary drawings for the adapter plate and will post those and some pictures of both bell housings soon in another topic. I need some feedback from anyone with ideas as I don't have any experience in making engine/ transmission adapter plates.
Take care,
Kent
I too changed my thermostat and still froze the goonads off last winter
These trucks just don't run very hot. Makes me wish that I had an aux heater like the FJ40. Maybe if I block the radiator and turn the fan off it will warm up. Your timer circuit sounds interesting and would like a schematic if you can.
I am working on preliminary drawings for the adapter plate and will post those and some pictures of both bell housings soon in another topic. I need some feedback from anyone with ideas as I don't have any experience in making engine/ transmission adapter plates.
Take care,
Kent
Just an update on the thermo fan now summer's here....
For anyone contemplating this mod do not use the Davies craig fan (12" DCSL12) that I used. It struggles once the outside temp is over 35 degrees to cool the engine (even with the air con fan wired to come on with it!)
I'm now investigating fitting a different fan (something with a shroud to cover the entire radiator this time). So far the fan off a Daewoo Nubira/Cielo is looking like a good possibility with a few small mods to fit.
Will post pics when I get it done.
Kent, I'm still getting around to that timer circuit for water crossings......
For anyone contemplating this mod do not use the Davies craig fan (12" DCSL12) that I used. It struggles once the outside temp is over 35 degrees to cool the engine (even with the air con fan wired to come on with it!)
I'm now investigating fitting a different fan (something with a shroud to cover the entire radiator this time). So far the fan off a Daewoo Nubira/Cielo is looking like a good possibility with a few small mods to fit.
Will post pics when I get it done.
Kent, I'm still getting around to that timer circuit for water crossings......
David
Fan Mods
Just a small pointer : If two fans are blowing in the same direction and the air space is not split between the two fans you will lose 30-50% of the fans capasity. To understand this better : swirl your hands in a bucket of water going in the same direction between your hands it will form a colission as one hand moves the water up and the other down (in the middel where the fans "touch") to combat this problem fans should turn in different directions yet move air in the same direction or the survace should be split to prevent the airflow from meeting each other.
Second pointer Car AC fan bearings are not bearins they are bushed you dont want to have them running all the time as the grease will eventualy dry and no more bush.
For those of you needing new shrouds make it yourself shrouds dont have to be made at fancy angles a rectangular box wit a fan in the middle works the same as a box with ofset fan or angled box. The purpose of the shtoud is to contain the low pressure the fan makes. Make sure the fan blade is halfway into the shroud no more no less.
^^^
|---->-<--|
''''''''''''''''''''
Hope this helps you guys wanting to do this mod. I still think the less elec. on a 4X4 the better but who am I. If my duch way of explaining dit not realy make sense PM or Email me and I will try again.
Cheers Yoda
Second pointer Car AC fan bearings are not bearins they are bushed you dont want to have them running all the time as the grease will eventualy dry and no more bush.
For those of you needing new shrouds make it yourself shrouds dont have to be made at fancy angles a rectangular box wit a fan in the middle works the same as a box with ofset fan or angled box. The purpose of the shtoud is to contain the low pressure the fan makes. Make sure the fan blade is halfway into the shroud no more no less.
^^^
|---->-<--|
''''''''''''''''''''
Hope this helps you guys wanting to do this mod. I still think the less elec. on a 4X4 the better but who am I. If my duch way of explaining dit not realy make sense PM or Email me and I will try again.
Cheers Yoda
SA Kiwi damd what a combo. Mus have been made in bog.
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