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21/5W Tail/Stop light wiring

For all things Electrical.

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Posts: 76
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 2:36 pm
Location: Black Rock

21/5W Tail/Stop light wiring

Post by JontyG »

Stupid question...

I'm wiring up the dummy lights in my GU, and was wondering which filament, in the dual filament (21/5W) globe should be used for stop, and which for tail. I'm guessing 21W filament is for stop, and 5W filament wired to tail light... :?: :?:

TIA
Jonty
GU III 4.8 Auto
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Post by mickyd555 »

spot on dude...........
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Post by gu4800 »

As said above, correct (obviously, brighter light for stop than tail).

Anyway, reason for my post - I wired up my GUIII the other day and had no problems. Looks and works a treat.

Let me know if you need any advice. I you no real drama's, so there is nothing I can warn you about in advance. Should go pretty smoothly.

Best of luck. It'll be worth it when it's finished.
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Dan

[quote="v840"]I bet you're the kind of person, when you're railing someone in the ass
you don't even have the common courtesy to give them a reach around! [/quote]
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Post by JontyG »

thanks for that guys :D

gu4800, i'm interested to know what parts you used. I had trouble finding wedge globe holders at a reasonable price, so I have settled for Narva bayonet globes and holders (Total cost was $14 :armsup: ).
GU III 4.8 Auto
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Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2004 10:10 pm

Post by mickyd555 »

i like bayonet fittings better anyway. they have a bit better hold on the lamp, so less damage to the fitting........small thing, but still good none the less
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Post by JontyG »

even better :D
GU III 4.8 Auto
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Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2005 7:52 pm
Location: BrisVegas

Post by gu4800 »

I had major problems getting the blade holders also, and yes ended up with the Narva bayonet ones.

The Narva ones are actually quite good because they are a soft flexible type plastic.

If you haven't started, you'll need to modift the globe holders as follows:

1) trim the outer rim so it actually fits inside the tail light mould
2) the "lugs" that are used to secure the globe in place (twist lock) will need to be trimmed down because the lug gap is smaller than the thickness of the plastic on the light mould

Both of the above are done in about 5 secs with a stanley knife.

Have you actually started yet?

P.S> Seen the pics of your rig with the black rims and new bar - way cool! Love the look of your car - black wheels, safari front bar, etc. I still have the factory alloys and alloy bullbar (I do like your bar better), and also have the lift (2") and decent tyres (33's).
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Dan

[quote="v840"]I bet you're the kind of person, when you're railing someone in the ass
you don't even have the common courtesy to give them a reach around! [/quote]
Posts: 76
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 2:36 pm
Location: Black Rock

Post by JontyG »

Nope, haven't started yet. Will hopefully do it over the weekend.

Thanks for those tips. will make my job much easier!

Thanks for the comments re: car...i really like the factory alloys, but had to replace them, to get cruiser offset, so that i could fit the 315's. I know some will turn their noses up at the sahara bar...but i figure it suits my needs, and is winch capable to boot ;)
GU III 4.8 Auto
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Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2005 7:52 pm
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Post by gu4800 »

I know you've got the link from another thread, I've seen the thread a few days/weeks ago. That is the exact set of instructions I followed, and had no dramas. It gives the wiring, removal and refit instructions which is great.

Just follow the instructions with the following little tips:

- get the correct sized hole saw to match the Narva fittings (I didn't, so it took a bit of stuffing around to "expand" the hole to fit the Narva holder - only out by about 1mm)
- you'll need a small file to file out the lug locators after drilling the holes
- as above, trim the "flange" bit around the globe holders by about 1mm (you'll see what I mean - the globe holder won't fit in the overall mould unless slightly trimmed. This also highlights the importance of drilling the holes dead centre). The flange does nothing anyway.
- as above, trim the actual width of the lug to widen the "gap"
- you'll need to file down the lug on the Orange light bulbs (they are incorrectly offset for a straight fit)

The rest is just follow you nose. With the correct sized hole saw and decent wire crimpers, should take you no more than 2hrs start to finish.

I am a complete nuffy and I had no drama's what so ever.

Let me know how you go.
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Dan

[quote="v840"]I bet you're the kind of person, when you're railing someone in the ass
you don't even have the common courtesy to give them a reach around! [/quote]
Posts: 76
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 2:36 pm
Location: Black Rock

Post by JontyG »

Thanks Dan...greatly appreciated!

looks like i'm in for a busy weekend...also hoping to fit the aftermarket glovebox in the passenger "airbag" compartment...
GU III 4.8 Auto
Posts: 76
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2005 2:36 pm
Location: Black Rock

Post by JontyG »

ok, installed the lights. Everything is working nicely, and it makes a big difference...feel like the car is "complete" now :)

Dan, your tips came in handy...thanks.

I had an issue, i found the light assembly filled up with dust, from filing out the the holes. I decided to try and flush the dust out with water, only to find that it removed the reflective paint from the backing plate. I was surprised by this :?: :? I thought it would hold up to a bit of water :!: :!: :!: I used a vacuum cleaner after that...much better
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Posts: 899
Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2005 7:52 pm
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Post by gu4800 »

I had the same problem (with the dust build up, etc). I ended just blowing the dust out (didn't have a compressor, used good old man power) and got most of it so left it at that.

Thought about using the water trick, but I did the job after work one night and it was about 9:00 p.m. after I finished drilling the holes, filing and was ready to install the new globe holders so I couldn't be bothered. Plus, I would have wanted for the water to dry before sealing the assembly with the new glob holders. By the sounds of it, lucky I didn't use water. Hope the reflective panel wasn't damaged too much?
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Dan

[quote="v840"]I bet you're the kind of person, when you're railing someone in the ass
you don't even have the common courtesy to give them a reach around! [/quote]
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