What I thought would be an easy job is turning into a nightmare....
How are you supposed to remove the factory electronically adjustable shocks? The motor fastened to the top of the shock should have three bolts holding it on (going by the fronts) but only one can be accessed from underneath. The motor needs to be removed to undo the top shock nut.
Any tips on how to do it (apart from lifting the body off the chassis!)
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Help!! Tips for changing rear shocks?
Moderator: Tiny
OK. For anyone else contemplating doing this here's what to do:
1. Remove rear seats by tilting forward and unbolting the four bolts that secure them to the floor.
2. Lift up carpet near the join at front of where rear seat would be
3. On either side just near the wheel arches there are two plates held down by four bolts each.
4. Remove the plates and this will give limited access to the top of the struts
5. Two of the three bolts that hold the motor on the strut can be undone easily. The third is a b@#%h and can't be reached, so.....
6. Lever the motor against the remaining screw and snap it off! Then have fun underneath trying to release the plug to totally remove the motor.
7. The strut top bolt can now be undone
and the new shocks fitted.
8. Make some new gaskets out of thin rubber to fit back under the plates.
9. Refit plates, job done!
The rear Bilsteins are now fitted and I'm very impressed. No more bucking and pitching over road bumps, and less body roll. Off road driving should be a lot more pleasant now.
They are also between 1-2" longer when fully extended than the factory shocks, an added bonus.
1. Remove rear seats by tilting forward and unbolting the four bolts that secure them to the floor.
2. Lift up carpet near the join at front of where rear seat would be
3. On either side just near the wheel arches there are two plates held down by four bolts each.
4. Remove the plates and this will give limited access to the top of the struts
5. Two of the three bolts that hold the motor on the strut can be undone easily. The third is a b@#%h and can't be reached, so.....
6. Lever the motor against the remaining screw and snap it off! Then have fun underneath trying to release the plug to totally remove the motor.
7. The strut top bolt can now be undone
and the new shocks fitted.
8. Make some new gaskets out of thin rubber to fit back under the plates.
9. Refit plates, job done!
The rear Bilsteins are now fitted and I'm very impressed. No more bucking and pitching over road bumps, and less body roll. Off road driving should be a lot more pleasant now.
They are also between 1-2" longer when fully extended than the factory shocks, an added bonus.
David
No David,
Roza is a 91 model DX. The shocks were nothing fancy just very tight and hard to get at. Lots of swearing and skinned knuckles.
The tightest and hardest nuts of all were on the torsion bar adjusters. I went and purchased 2 new ring openend spanners and used a tyre lever between them to get them loose.
I hope to get a chance later today to look at modifying the rear Rancho's. Haven;t received the promised rubber mounts from Auto Alliance yet.
Roza is a 91 model DX. The shocks were nothing fancy just very tight and hard to get at. Lots of swearing and skinned knuckles.
The tightest and hardest nuts of all were on the torsion bar adjusters. I went and purchased 2 new ring openend spanners and used a tyre lever between them to get them loose.
I hope to get a chance later today to look at modifying the rear Rancho's. Haven;t received the promised rubber mounts from Auto Alliance yet.
Beer is the living proof that God loves us and wants us to be Happy.
Cheers Leon...
Cheers Leon...
My Bilsteins have only got the rubber mounts, so it may improve yours a bit. The rear ones are really good for ride quality, the only time it's harsh on road is over big bumps. I think thats mainly due to it hitting the bump stops as there isn't much travel in the rear before they come into play.
Good luck and keep at them!
Good luck and keep at them!
David
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