Outer Limits 4x4 Board

just wondering if anyone has figured a way to strengthen a full floating rear landcruiser axle? (i put it here and not the toy section cause some other makes may have ideas)

a friends cruiser destroyed the rear hub yesterday under power on the road. it already had the studs replaced with high tensile bolts, but it sheared all these and destroyed all the dowels.

so any ideas?

was it redrilled to take the bigger 100 series studs?

was it redrilled to take the bigger 100 series studs?

bad_religion_au wrote:was it redrilled to take the bigger 100 series studs?

no, thats what he's thinking of doin though. didn't know that 100 series were an upgrade though

i have had this problem, i was using bolts also but the stud conewasher,springwasher and nut are stronger. try uprading the studs to 100 series stuff it is 10mm over the 8mm stuff. you will have to mod the axles and hubs. there is a thead in here somwhere on it.






edit maybe makes more sense now.

dumbdunce did a tech arcticle on the upgrade a while i go im pretty sure

Check the housing isn't bent and use only genuine studs

I was breaking studs driving down the road, i had the hub and axels machined and all were true and straight (Axels straight as could be expected) i still had problems

Then i replace the entire housing, went from 34- 38 inch tyres (which i have been running now for 12 months) and broke my first stud 2 weeks ago.

The housing showed no visable signs of being bent

mmm, the bent housing part is a worry, its had a lot of welding done on it for the 4 link

do they usually go in high power applications as well though? this has approx 450-500hp and 38.5 baja claws on at the time

I done the 100 series 10mm studs and dowels job years ago and run a 454 Chev with upto the 38.5 16 claws and never had a problem i now run 100 series 32 spline axles but never had a problem . I do however use care when stripping down for wheel bearings etc to ensure that the tapered holes in the axles are purfect ( dont strike the out axle flange to release collets ) if these are kept in very good condition this is a great fit for big power and big tyres. I had a special cutter made up for cutting the tapered holes in the axle to ansure the angle is purfect so as to lock onto the collet and onto the stud.

Wally

Has anybody just tried running 10mm or 3/8UNF bolts without the cone washers - just straight bolts.

The only reason Im suggesting this is that his is the way range rovers run them (3/8UNF bolts and only 5 of them) and rangies nevey have a problem. Even when the bolts come loose (which happens often) that still dont shear them off.

If you guys ran bolts without the cone washers you could step up to a grade 13.2 cap head bolt and there would be no way you could shear one of them.

Sam

thats the mod we used to do at work, wat sam said.