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More flex from leaf springs
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
More flex from leaf springs
Am looking for a better ride and bit more flex out of my sierra. I know a lot of people take out a spring from the pack but ave a few q's.
1. Which spring do people reckon you should take out 2, 3 or load? (on a zook anyway). Or pretty much should I be taking a load leaf or flex leaf out?
2. do you take the spring out from front AND rear packs? and if so do you take the same leaf from front and back.
cheers nev.
1. Which spring do people reckon you should take out 2, 3 or load? (on a zook anyway). Or pretty much should I be taking a load leaf or flex leaf out?
2. do you take the spring out from front AND rear packs? and if so do you take the same leaf from front and back.
cheers nev.
01 GU Patrol 4.2TD Wagon
well my experiance aint with suzukies but fj40 cruisers
ive had mine apart a few times and its trial and error but it seems that the smaller leaves tend to make it flex more and give a softer ride when there removed
you dont have to remove front and rear the same just remove what you want and trial it its only a few bolts to put em back in if your not happy
ive had mine apart a few times and its trial and error but it seems that the smaller leaves tend to make it flex more and give a softer ride when there removed
you dont have to remove front and rear the same just remove what you want and trial it its only a few bolts to put em back in if your not happy
Hey champ this question would be better suited for the Suzuki question as you will get a lot more responses.
That said you’re on the right track. Removing leaves will make the pack softer and you will be restricting your carry load. It is common to remove the load leave just to loosen it up. But remember the load leaf doesn’t do much until the spring has weight on it. Also if you take to much spring out of the pack it will be so soft that when you are on a side hill you will also get a large amount of body roll in the wrong direction.
For a good ride and sweet flex just remember a long flat spring is the key. I think the best mod for ride and flex is to put a low arched rear in the front. It is a bit longer so it softens the ride up. And depending on how you do it, it also increases the wheel base not making the ride so harsh.
Lastly if the spring is too soft you will get spring wrap….. this can be sorted with a track bar.
What are the spec’s of your rig ATM? edit sorry just read your sig. next step for you is rears up front..
That said you’re on the right track. Removing leaves will make the pack softer and you will be restricting your carry load. It is common to remove the load leave just to loosen it up. But remember the load leaf doesn’t do much until the spring has weight on it. Also if you take to much spring out of the pack it will be so soft that when you are on a side hill you will also get a large amount of body roll in the wrong direction.
For a good ride and sweet flex just remember a long flat spring is the key. I think the best mod for ride and flex is to put a low arched rear in the front. It is a bit longer so it softens the ride up. And depending on how you do it, it also increases the wheel base not making the ride so harsh.
Lastly if the spring is too soft you will get spring wrap….. this can be sorted with a track bar.
What are the spec’s of your rig ATM? edit sorry just read your sig. next step for you is rears up front..
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
thanks for the help guys! much appreciated! I thought it would be suited to suzi section too but only got 1 response in a week so thought id try here.
I guess ill just start with the load spring and go from there if its not right. Will definitely look at RUF i think. I know most people move the mount back to fit the springs in but is there a way i can do RUF without cutting and welding. Read a thing on banana or boomerang shackles...these any good to use...I'm guessing not coz hardly anyone does but why not?? cheers
I guess ill just start with the load spring and go from there if its not right. Will definitely look at RUF i think. I know most people move the mount back to fit the springs in but is there a way i can do RUF without cutting and welding. Read a thing on banana or boomerang shackles...these any good to use...I'm guessing not coz hardly anyone does but why not?? cheers
01 GU Patrol 4.2TD Wagon
i did RUF a while back and it makes a huge difference. Youi can do it without extending the chasis or moving the rear bracket. All you need is a longer shackle and to drill a new rear mount hole back 25mm and up 10mm and they fit and work real well. check out the following discussion for details
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ight=rufly
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ight=rufly
1999 SQ625 Manual Grand Vitara. Lifted, Twin Locked, 31' Extremes, dual Batteries, Winch.
Lots of custom gear as I cant afford the proper stuff.
Lots of custom gear as I cant afford the proper stuff.
ok thanks for that!! maybe your way is easiest B4T. Just a few questions though...sorry if they ar really obvious! If I'm running 2 inch lift springs will i need 2 inch lift rears to match height or will standard suzi rears give lift coz in front?
Also what did mock mean when he said in your linked post that you were only doing half the job?
Also if you do ruf in a way that moves diff forward (i'm presuming this happens if you dont drill hole back and just use extended shackles) does this effect steering and shockie mounts etc.
any help much appreciated!!!
Also what did mock mean when he said in your linked post that you were only doing half the job?
Also if you do ruf in a way that moves diff forward (i'm presuming this happens if you dont drill hole back and just use extended shackles) does this effect steering and shockie mounts etc.
any help much appreciated!!!
01 GU Patrol 4.2TD Wagon
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Probably too late, but, i guessing Mock was refering to the fact that B4T's RUF doesnt move the front acle forward, which is a major benefit of a RUF conversion to a zook. To move the axle forward you will need to remove the factory bump stop bracket on the chassis, as this will foul the shock. The steering i cant remember ( i have crossover steer and never really looked at using the factory setup). TO RUF you can just use extended shackles, but you really should extend the chassis at the front, as the shackle angle without extension is pretty scary.
Hope this might help.
Layto....
Hope this might help.
Layto....
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