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RUF on sierra
RUF on sierra
okay soon im going to probably be getting some OME 2" lift springs
Now i thought whilst im down there i may aswell do RUF
Can some one please tell me how its done
Now i have done a search, even looked in the bible
But its not in detail enough for a newbie such as myself...
So can some one help....
cheers
Does this mean i buy 2 pairs of rear 2" springs?
Now i thought whilst im down there i may aswell do RUF
Can some one please tell me how its done
Now i have done a search, even looked in the bible
But its not in detail enough for a newbie such as myself...
So can some one help....
cheers
Does this mean i buy 2 pairs of rear 2" springs?
from bible
rear up front(ruf)
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=44002
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=46729
two main ways that i know is either putting a chassis extension on the front of the chassis, welding is necessary.
i cut the front fixed mount off my chassis and moved it back 2" so the rear springs could go in with longer shackels.
cheers
rear up front(ruf)
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=44002
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=46729
two main ways that i know is either putting a chassis extension on the front of the chassis, welding is necessary.
i cut the front fixed mount off my chassis and moved it back 2" so the rear springs could go in with longer shackels.
cheers
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
As a lot of people will say that a chassis ext is best to do for the most benefit.
I have done it my way for the legal factor. It is harder to a mount move than a chassis extension.
Depends on where u r u may have to get it engineered and a proper welder to weld it.
cheers
I have done it my way for the legal factor. It is harder to a mount move than a chassis extension.
Depends on where u r u may have to get it engineered and a proper welder to weld it.
cheers
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
Sorry mate but you really have not searchedchunkz wrote:so for a chasis extension... i have to like entend the whole body?
or just the front axel?
(see im not bright)
This has been discussed over and over again..
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
The chassis. This the the two prongs out of the front end. Body is unaltered. Axle moves about a 1" forward i think with chassis ext ruf.
As I know u have said. U may want to read up on this a bit more to see if this is what u want also and who you are going to get to do it.
cheers
As I know u have said. U may want to read up on this a bit more to see if this is what u want also and who you are going to get to do it.
cheers
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
hgfhf
hey DeWsE, can you remember how much further forward you moved the front shackle mount? i think i read somewhere that 2", or 50mm is enough for just standard RUF. true?DeWsE wrote:Sorry mate but you really have not searchedchunkz wrote:so for a chasis extension... i have to like entend the whole body?
or just the front axel?
(see im not bright)
This has been discussed over and over again..
how much did you move yours? i think i read somewhere that you moved it too much forward, and some funky shackle angles came up.
thanks.
1995 Vitara:
stock standard
WWW.DARWIN4X4.NET
stock standard
WWW.DARWIN4X4.NET
Just redrill another hole in the rear front spring perches, about an inch back, bolt the spring through there. Then use an extended shackle on the front. This way your steering geometry stays the same, and the diff isn't moved. Its a piece of cake. Use your stock rear springs up front, and only buy two inch lifted rears for the rear.
you get some steel stuff and put it on the end of the the two black sticky outy things at the front, fit some more steel (bendy bits) to the two (now longer) black sticky outy bits and you are good to goDeWsE wrote:Sorry mate but you really have not searchedchunkz wrote:so for a chasis extension... i have to like entend the whole body?
or just the front axel?
(see im not bright)
This has been discussed over and over again..
who needs to search with mates like this
don't forget the pics
Peter.
What does RUF stand for?droopypete wrote:you get some steel stuff and put it on the end of the the two black sticky outy things at the front, fit some more steel (bendy bits) to the two (now longer) black sticky outy bits and you are good to goDeWsE wrote:Sorry mate but you really have not searchedchunkz wrote:so for a chasis extension... i have to like entend the whole body?
or just the front axel?
(see im not bright)
This has been discussed over and over again..
who needs to search with mates like this
don't forget the pics
Peter.
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
Re: hgfhf
Yeah you have been reading some of the old posts haven’t you. I went over board and installed a 100mm extension….. Why, coz I didn’t both measuring the rear. I ended up inverting the springs a few times because it was easy for a rock to push it the wrong way.SiKiD_01 wrote:hey DeWsE, can you remember how much further forward you moved the front shackle mount? i think i read somewhere that 2", or 50mm is enough for just standard RUF. true?DeWsE wrote:Sorry mate but you really have not searchedchunkz wrote:so for a chasis extension... i have to like entend the whole body?
or just the front axel?
(see im not bright)
This has been discussed over and over again..
how much did you move yours? i think i read somewhere that you moved it too much forward, and some funky shackle angles came up.
thanks.
Yeah 50mm would be fine for this purpose, and some longer shackles. For the shackles I would recommend 35mm over stock.
Stock rears will be fine up front, just remember to take the load springs out. Load spring = search for the newbies who are going to ask.
Okay this has been argued a lot, especially by grimbo. If you are going to ruff do it properly and push the diff as far forward as possible. This will give you more WB and a much more balanced feel.
Lastly, you will get a lot of flex if done right, so you better put some longer shocks in. And while your doing that you will realise that the standard mount isn’t inline with the diff….. so build some new ones.
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
THATS BETTER!!!!!droopypete wrote:you get some steel stuff and put it on the end of the the two black sticky outy things at the front, fit some more steel (bendy bits) to the two (now longer) black sticky outy bits and you are good to goDeWsE wrote:Sorry mate but you really have not searchedchunkz wrote:so for a chasis extension... i have to like entend the whole body?
or just the front axel?
(see im not bright)
This has been discussed over and over again..
who needs to search with mates like this
don't forget the pics
Peter.
some one who explains it as they would to a 10yo..
(im serious, i understood that )
and i have read every post on it in the bible..DeWsE wrote:Sorry mate but you really have not searchedchunkz wrote:so for a chasis extension... i have to like entend the whole body?
or just the front axel?
(see im not bright)
This has been discussed over and over again..
i saw your pictures and 4 others?
Or just do it like this, you still get the fun of driving a short as WB, and you dont even need to know what a welder is. Your shocks stay in line, but you will need some new brake lines and longer shocks to accomodate for the flex.Just redrill another hole in the rear front spring perches, about an inch back, bolt the spring through there. Then use an extended shackle on the front. This way your steering geometry stays the same, and the diff isn't moved. Its a piece of cake. Use your stock rear springs up front, and only buy two inch lifted rears for the rear.
why do you want to do RUF if you don't understand what it is/ does Never do a modification you don't understand because its what the big boys are doingchunkz wrote:so for a chasis extension... i have to like entend the whole body?
or just the front axel?
(see im not bright)
Not being critical so don't be offended just wondering
now was just looking at the bars on mine...DeWsE wrote:Sorry mate but you really have not searchedchunkz wrote:so for a chasis extension... i have to like entend the whole body?
or just the front axel?
(see im not bright)
This has been discussed over and over again..
No with the extra welded on bit...
how does that fit on the body work?
do i extend the front bumper?
what if i have bull bar?
If not to look at his zook, do it for a look at his wife..droopypete wrote:Mate, you live 10 mins from my place, come around and have a look, or go to a suzuki club meeting and look at many.
Peter.
Oh and don't forget pic's....
Now that we have mentioned pete's wife it makes it a real zook section thread.
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
Re: hgfhf
yep, been doing a fair bit of research on RUF, and your old posts seem to be the only ones with good pics. anyway, my mate has a sierra, planning RUF by way of chassis extention.DeWsE wrote:
Yeah you have been reading some of the old posts haven’t you. I went over board and installed a 100mm extension….. Why, coz I didn’t both measuring the rear. I ended up inverting the springs a few times because it was easy for a rock to push it the wrong way.
Yeah 50mm would be fine for this purpose, and some longer shackles. For the shackles I would recommend 35mm over stock.
Stock rears will be fine up front, just remember to take the load springs out. Load spring = search for the newbies who are going to ask.
Okay this has been argued a lot, especially by grimbo. If you are going to ruff do it properly and push the diff as far forward as possible. This will give you more WB and a much more balanced feel.
Lastly, you will get a lot of flex if done right, so you better put some longer shocks in. And while your doing that you will realise that the standard mount isn’t inline with the diff….. so build some new ones.
we used 100mmx50mm, 3mm thick, 100mm long, on the end of the original chassis rails, then plated top bottom and outside with 6mm plate. we weren't sure if there was a proper right way of doing it, so we just welded it all together.
the shackle mount is 65mm forward from stock. this was decided before we knew how much to move it forward, although we did know rears are 2" longer. come to think about it now, we should have just copied what it was in the back of the sierra, seeing as the rear springs are from the rear.
we also put in an extra 'cross member', 50mm pipe, 4mm thick. it was just some scrap that we had lying around. we also left 30mm in from the absolute front to drill some holes for future front bars to mount to.
we might put in a little gusset for the outside corner to hold the plate on better, as the shackle mount might twist it.... might.
anyway.....
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1995 Vitara:
stock standard
WWW.DARWIN4X4.NET
stock standard
WWW.DARWIN4X4.NET
i brough a kit from rocky road in the states
just some brackets that get bolted to the spring hanger
advantage is that i can take brackets off if i want to sell the car
pm me if you want some pics as i will have to go take some (lost my old pics to my old comp)
just some brackets that get bolted to the spring hanger
advantage is that i can take brackets off if i want to sell the car
pm me if you want some pics as i will have to go take some (lost my old pics to my old comp)
the years have been good to me, its the weekends that have done all the damage!!!!!
Has that been you leaving coke cans and mackas wrappers outside my bedroom window at night?DeWsE wrote:If not to look at his zook, do it for a look at his wife..
Oh and don't forget pic's....
Now that we have mentioned pete's wife it makes it a real zook section thread.
Peter.
Ps the penis pump is not mine! I don't know where it came from, honest!!
OK team, here's some more "opinion" starting right from the beginning.
RUF= rear springs up front
rear springs are 3" longer than front sierra springs. The longer springs have more arch (more lift)
have a slower resonant frequency (they bounce slower, making the car ride better)
flex better, making for about 4" more droop.
I have done 6 sierras, and I have always moved the axle forward the full 40mm each time and done a chassis extension, but my extensions are getting smaller. they are now down to 50mm
There is no point doing RUF without moving the axle forward IMHO. The whole advantage as far as I am concerned is to get eh tyre away fromt he firewall.
Everytime I do it I turn it into more and more work, but the more time you put in, the better it works.
Basically, everything has to move forward 40mm, so the bumpstops, the shock mounts, the brake line brackets all come forward. Technically, the driveshaft has to be lengthened 40mm too.
In relation to steering "geometry" the problem is that if you go all the way forward (about 40mm) with the axle, the pitman arm will just touch the tie rod at full compression, and the drag link and the tie rod sweep across exh other and rub the pint off. no big deal, but a bit hack looking. There are three ways to fix this. One is to move the steering box forward when you move the axle forward, the other is a bumpstop spacer, and the third is to run a vitara PS box with a flat pitman arm. (or like Greg, do all three )
Narrow track sierras (1981-1987) are the easiest to do and get the best result as the springs are under the chassis. WT's are harder because the springs are outboarded and look much messier when finished.
I make long shock mounts and use OME N76 shocks. these have nice valving and are plenty long enough. I also use a 2" bumpstop spacer, but I sling it under the chassis rather than outboard like the stock bumpstop. This way, there is no real loss of articulation, and the shock mounts stay sane lengths and the tyres stay out of the guards.
as I guess you will pick up, I don;t think this is a bolt on type of job. Yes, there are all sorts of kits to do it, but I don't think any of them really stack up to getting in there with the welder. and making it look all stock or better than stock.
If there is a need I will include more tech in relation to this.
Ps the two photo's are of a NT width extension with a Vitara PS box, fully engineered. the other is of a WT car with a stock manual box and no engineers. Both cars run N76 shocks and the same OME springs, shackle length and bumpstop spacers. In the photo's, both cars are unfinished, but will give you a general idea of what they look like on a WT and a NT, and also what out engineer insisted on the extension looking like.
PS chunks, this is a major job IMHO and unless you have a really good idea of what you want to achieve I would just buy OME front springs and stock shocks and work with that.
RUF= rear springs up front
rear springs are 3" longer than front sierra springs. The longer springs have more arch (more lift)
have a slower resonant frequency (they bounce slower, making the car ride better)
flex better, making for about 4" more droop.
I have done 6 sierras, and I have always moved the axle forward the full 40mm each time and done a chassis extension, but my extensions are getting smaller. they are now down to 50mm
There is no point doing RUF without moving the axle forward IMHO. The whole advantage as far as I am concerned is to get eh tyre away fromt he firewall.
Everytime I do it I turn it into more and more work, but the more time you put in, the better it works.
Basically, everything has to move forward 40mm, so the bumpstops, the shock mounts, the brake line brackets all come forward. Technically, the driveshaft has to be lengthened 40mm too.
In relation to steering "geometry" the problem is that if you go all the way forward (about 40mm) with the axle, the pitman arm will just touch the tie rod at full compression, and the drag link and the tie rod sweep across exh other and rub the pint off. no big deal, but a bit hack looking. There are three ways to fix this. One is to move the steering box forward when you move the axle forward, the other is a bumpstop spacer, and the third is to run a vitara PS box with a flat pitman arm. (or like Greg, do all three )
Narrow track sierras (1981-1987) are the easiest to do and get the best result as the springs are under the chassis. WT's are harder because the springs are outboarded and look much messier when finished.
I make long shock mounts and use OME N76 shocks. these have nice valving and are plenty long enough. I also use a 2" bumpstop spacer, but I sling it under the chassis rather than outboard like the stock bumpstop. This way, there is no real loss of articulation, and the shock mounts stay sane lengths and the tyres stay out of the guards.
as I guess you will pick up, I don;t think this is a bolt on type of job. Yes, there are all sorts of kits to do it, but I don't think any of them really stack up to getting in there with the welder. and making it look all stock or better than stock.
If there is a need I will include more tech in relation to this.
Ps the two photo's are of a NT width extension with a Vitara PS box, fully engineered. the other is of a WT car with a stock manual box and no engineers. Both cars run N76 shocks and the same OME springs, shackle length and bumpstop spacers. In the photo's, both cars are unfinished, but will give you a general idea of what they look like on a WT and a NT, and also what out engineer insisted on the extension looking like.
PS chunks, this is a major job IMHO and unless you have a really good idea of what you want to achieve I would just buy OME front springs and stock shocks and work with that.
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[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
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