Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Axle Strength
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Axle Strength
I want to replace the axles in a prototype vehicle I have. It is based on a Range Rover platform and so far I use the original axles. I have put 24 spline strengthen shafts but I need something stronger.
Two options I am considering are :
1. Toyota 80 series
2. Patrol MK series
I also know that the real axle from a 3.5 Pajero is very strong. But I need to find a matching front.
Can you tell me your opinions on the above, or any other suggestions?
Two options I am considering are :
1. Toyota 80 series
2. Patrol MK series
I also know that the real axle from a 3.5 Pajero is very strong. But I need to find a matching front.
Can you tell me your opinions on the above, or any other suggestions?
Pajero 88 model, with 3.5 V6 manual
Traka buggy, RR Classic based, 3.9 EFI, auto
Traka buggy, RR Classic based, 3.9 EFI, auto
Dude, pretty sure GQ axles are almost a bolt up affair ( at least the front is, the rear needs a bit of welding/moving stuff). Heaps stronger than OE and stronger cvs than 80 series diffs not to mention readily available wheel sizes. 2K or less for a pair. PM GURU or maggot4x4, I think both have done it to theirs IIRC.
Will definitely be putting them on my hangover when I can.
Will definitely be putting them on my hangover when I can.
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
are the 24 spline axles "rover" or are they an aftermarket brand?
have you upgraded the diff center to an ARB or similar?
have you changed the ring and pinion to another ratio?
are you actually breaking axles or something else?
how much does this vehicle way?
there's another option, you can fit toyota hilux and some landcrusier centers into rover housings which gives a few more options to axles and cv's
cheers, Serg
have you upgraded the diff center to an ARB or similar?
have you changed the ring and pinion to another ratio?
are you actually breaking axles or something else?
how much does this vehicle way?
there's another option, you can fit toyota hilux and some landcrusier centers into rover housings which gives a few more options to axles and cv's
cheers, Serg
Range Rover has offset diffs front and rear (doesn't it?) Pajero is centred, Patrol rear is centred? Don't know if 80 series diffs are offset enough?
Lockers for the (larger and stronger) Pajero 3.5 rear are hard to come by - ARB don't make one, and aren't planning to.
Don't know if any of this is important to you.
Scott
Lockers for the (larger and stronger) Pajero 3.5 rear are hard to come by - ARB don't make one, and aren't planning to.
Don't know if any of this is important to you.
Scott
the 80 is slightly offset, doesn't matter though... i know 2 40 series that are runningthem with standard offset T cases just fineNJ SWB wrote:Range Rover has offset diffs front and rear (doesn't it?) Pajero is centred, Patrol rear is centred? Don't know if 80 series diffs are offset enough?
Lockers for the (larger and stronger) Pajero 3.5 rear are hard to come by - ARB don't make one, and aren't planning to.
Don't know if any of this is important to you.
Scott
Spit my last breath
The shafts are from KAM in UK. There is a very good system in the front, which includes a smaller outer shaft that breaks easier than the inner and can be replaced quickly and cheaply. I was in a contest last weekend and it broke (in a case that I don't find it very justifiable for an aftermarket stronger shaft). Noone could beleive that I replaced it in 15 minutes! The problem is that I would prefer to have something that doesn't break, at least not that easlily.uninformed wrote:are the 24 spline axles "rover" or are they an aftermarket brand?
have you upgraded the diff center to an ARB or similar?
have you changed the ring and pinion to another ratio?
are you actually breaking axles or something else?
how much does this vehicle way?
there's another option, you can fit toyota hilux and some landcrusier centers into rover housings which gives a few more options to axles and cv's
cheers, Serg
The R&Ps are 4,75 from the same company and the centers are ARBs.
The vehicle is lighter than the original, as the whole body was replaced with a buggy kit. I will try to post a few pics.
Pajero 88 model, with 3.5 V6 manual
Traka buggy, RR Classic based, 3.9 EFI, auto
Traka buggy, RR Classic based, 3.9 EFI, auto
Yes the RR diffs are on the passenger side. But I don't think this is a problem for the rear, if it is centered.NJ SWB wrote:Range Rover has offset diffs front and rear (doesn't it?) Pajero is centred, Patrol rear is centred? Don't know if 80 series diffs are offset enough?
Lockers for the (larger and stronger) Pajero 3.5 rear are hard to come by - ARB don't make one, and aren't planning to.
Don't know if any of this is important to you.
Scott
I have found an axle from a 3,5 Pajero with the factory locker. They sell it for 800 euros, which I think is very reasonable. The gears I can have it with are 4,63 or 4,88. Is it considered stronger than the 80 series axles?
Pajero 88 model, with 3.5 V6 manual
Traka buggy, RR Classic based, 3.9 EFI, auto
Traka buggy, RR Classic based, 3.9 EFI, auto
I thought the rover used a weaker version of the Dana 60 in the rear.
The 'big' pajero diff is a 9.5 inch ring gear and supposed to be strong.
The Nissan have 2 main types a h230 and h260 9 inch and 10.5 inch ring gear.
The h260 also has 1.5 37 spline axle, it is one of the strongest diffs you can get that will fit with to many mods.
The Nissan diffs don't have a hand break if that’s an issue.
Have a look at the arb site under there air locker it give some insight in to the common diff around.
Common Dana 60 9.5 ring gear 1.3" 30spl axle
HD Dana 60 9.5 ring gear 1.5" 35 spline axle
Dana 40 8.75 ring gear 1.3" 30spl axle
This is all of the top of my head so could be a little wrong
Eric
The 'big' pajero diff is a 9.5 inch ring gear and supposed to be strong.
The Nissan have 2 main types a h230 and h260 9 inch and 10.5 inch ring gear.
The h260 also has 1.5 37 spline axle, it is one of the strongest diffs you can get that will fit with to many mods.
The Nissan diffs don't have a hand break if that’s an issue.
Have a look at the arb site under there air locker it give some insight in to the common diff around.
Common Dana 60 9.5 ring gear 1.3" 30spl axle
HD Dana 60 9.5 ring gear 1.5" 35 spline axle
Dana 40 8.75 ring gear 1.3" 30spl axle
This is all of the top of my head so could be a little wrong
Eric
78 scout 392ci V8 LPG, 727 TF, dana 20, dana 44 locked and loaded, 9" rear Diff. 10inch lift'n'so on
It depends on how many K's you do to wether the off set diff is worthwhile or not.
I have GQ's in my Rangie tourer, the are coming out as I am sick of the vibration from the rear end at 100kph, and I have tried everything to fix it. They are being replaced with 80 series diffs.
However, if you only do short trips or comp work, the GQ's would be fine. My GQ's are going in my other rangie that is just a play truck.
I have GQ's in my Rangie tourer, the are coming out as I am sick of the vibration from the rear end at 100kph, and I have tried everything to fix it. They are being replaced with 80 series diffs.
However, if you only do short trips or comp work, the GQ's would be fine. My GQ's are going in my other rangie that is just a play truck.
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
I run 80 series diffs in hilux (centred t case). It runs a DC joint at t case and the input flange on the rear diff is parallel with t case input flange, which is what I was told to do. It doesn't vibe bad but you can hear rattles when coasting.Maggot4x4 wrote:It depends on how many K's you do to wether the off set diff is worthwhile or not.
I have GQ's in my Rangie tourer, the are coming out as I am sick of the vibration from the rear end at 100kph, and I have tried everything to fix it. They are being replaced with 80 series diffs.
However, if you only do short trips or comp work, the GQ's would be fine. My GQ's are going in my other rangie that is just a play truck.
It's annoying enough for me to source a t case with offset rear output when I do engine conversion.
Large Pajero rear diff is 9.5" with 33.5mm and 31 spline axles.
80 Series rear diff is 9.5" (??) 33mm and 30 spline axles.
The main difference is that the 80 Series is a full floater where as the Paj is a semi floater. So the 80 Series axles would probly be stronger overall but they can shear hub bolts but these can be upgraded to 10mm.
The Paj rear diff centre is stronger than a 80 Series IMHO mainly due to the crownwheel thickness (I've seen both).
I spose for a comp truck it will boil down to availability and price and there the Toyo will be better.
But the 3.5 Paj rear end is plenty strong.
The 3.5 Paj rear diffs came in a 4.636 or 4.90 ratio some later models had 4.27.
80 Series rear diff is 9.5" (??) 33mm and 30 spline axles.
The main difference is that the 80 Series is a full floater where as the Paj is a semi floater. So the 80 Series axles would probly be stronger overall but they can shear hub bolts but these can be upgraded to 10mm.
The Paj rear diff centre is stronger than a 80 Series IMHO mainly due to the crownwheel thickness (I've seen both).
I spose for a comp truck it will boil down to availability and price and there the Toyo will be better.
But the 3.5 Paj rear end is plenty strong.
The 3.5 Paj rear diffs came in a 4.636 or 4.90 ratio some later models had 4.27.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
the weak point in a rover diff is the ring and pinion if you are breaking parts BEFORE these, you have not got the most out of your rover diffs. you can fit longfield or cvunlimited 4340 cv's with 300m cages, run aftermarket shafts, maxi-drive and jacmac, better diff centers, arb, jacmac and maxidrive.
if set up properly you should break ring and pinions first, if this is a problem change the centers to toyota hilux, crusier and now you have a hypoid set up thats stronger than the rover stuff and still have good ground clearence.
i'm guessing your truck is a dakar based kit?
i haven't herd anything that leads me to believe that KAM makes better gear than the others i mentioned
Ashcroft make a aeu2522 replacement cv in cromo.....
don't rule out all your options before changing hole axles
cheers, Serg
if set up properly you should break ring and pinions first, if this is a problem change the centers to toyota hilux, crusier and now you have a hypoid set up thats stronger than the rover stuff and still have good ground clearence.
i'm guessing your truck is a dakar based kit?
i haven't herd anything that leads me to believe that KAM makes better gear than the others i mentioned
Ashcroft make a aeu2522 replacement cv in cromo.....
don't rule out all your options before changing hole axles
cheers, Serg
Tha R&Ps are quoted as 50% stronger and the halfshafts as 35%. The KAM site is www.kamdiffs.com. The reason of my choice is that I liked the idea of the easy front replacement. Which really works. And the idea is that it should break before anything else, being cheaper and easier to replace. But it may be too weak for this reason and it breaks in cases that it shouldn't. I've been told from the local distributor that we may order them stronger but with the risk that something else brakes instead. I am thinking of trying it and see what happens. When I start to brake R&P's it will mean that my half shafts are strong enough!uninformed wrote:the weak point in a rover diff is the ring and pinion if you are breaking parts BEFORE these, you have not got the most out of your rover diffs. you can fit longfield or cvunlimited 4340 cv's with 300m cages, run aftermarket shafts, maxi-drive and jacmac, better diff centers, arb, jacmac and maxidrive.
if set up properly you should break ring and pinions first, if this is a problem change the centers to toyota hilux, crusier and now you have a hypoid set up thats stronger than the rover stuff and still have good ground clearence.
i'm guessing your truck is a dakar based kit?
i haven't herd anything that leads me to believe that KAM makes better gear than the others i mentioned
Ashcroft make a aeu2522 replacement cv in cromo.....
don't rule out all your options before changing hole axles
cheers, Serg
I have a Traka based kit, similar to Dakar.
I can't see a point in changing to Toyota centers. I can reather use whole axles instead with stronger shafts. I can wait until the next time something breaks again and see. The thing is that other heavily modified cars use axles like Dana 44 and 60 and GM 12 bolt, either stock or aftermarket like Dynatrak. As the car develops I think I will need something really strong.
Pajero 88 model, with 3.5 V6 manual
Traka buggy, RR Classic based, 3.9 EFI, auto
Traka buggy, RR Classic based, 3.9 EFI, auto
The easiest option is to get the new 4340/300M 24 spline cv's and axles from Ashcrofts in the UK. These will be stronger than your KAM diffs.xappas wrote:Tha R&Ps are quoted as 50% stronger and the halfshafts as 35%. The KAM site is www.kamdiffs.com. The reason of my choice is that I liked the idea of the easy front replacement. Which really works. And the idea is that it should break before anything else, being cheaper and easier to replace. But it may be too weak for this reason and it breaks in cases that it shouldn't. I've been told from the local distributor that we may order them stronger but with the risk that something else brakes instead. I am thinking of trying it and see what happens. When I start to brake R&P's it will mean that my half shafts are strong enough!uninformed wrote:the weak point in a rover diff is the ring and pinion if you are breaking parts BEFORE these, you have not got the most out of your rover diffs. you can fit longfield or cvunlimited 4340 cv's with 300m cages, run aftermarket shafts, maxi-drive and jacmac, better diff centers, arb, jacmac and maxidrive.
if set up properly you should break ring and pinions first, if this is a problem change the centers to toyota hilux, crusier and now you have a hypoid set up thats stronger than the rover stuff and still have good ground clearence.
i'm guessing your truck is a dakar based kit?
i haven't herd anything that leads me to believe that KAM makes better gear than the others i mentioned
Ashcroft make a aeu2522 replacement cv in cromo.....
don't rule out all your options before changing hole axles
cheers, Serg
I have a Traka based kit, similar to Dakar.
I can't see a point in changing to Toyota centers. I can reather use whole axles instead with stronger shafts. I can wait until the next time something breaks again and see. The thing is that other heavily modified cars use axles like Dana 44 and 60 and GM 12 bolt, either stock or aftermarket like Dynatrak. As the car develops I think I will need something really strong.
Ashcroft can increase the strength of your diffs by fitting a slipper pad behind the crown wheel to prevent the distortion that leads to tooth failure.
The Ashcroft cv's will be stronger than Nissan GQ cv's, and the axles will be stronger than your KAM axles because they are 24 spline at both ends ie they dont step down in size at the cv.
These are a new products, improved from previous cv's and axles.
John
Hi Frank,Bitsamissin wrote:Large Pajero rear diff is 9.5" with 33.5mm and 31 spline axles.
80 Series rear diff is 9.5" (??) 33mm and 30 spline axles.
The main difference is that the 80 Series is a full floater where as the Paj is a semi floater. So the 80 Series axles would probly be stronger overall but they can shear hub bolts but these can be upgraded to 10mm.
The Paj rear diff centre is stronger than a 80 Series IMHO mainly due to the crownwheel thickness (I've seen both).
I spose for a comp truck it will boil down to availability and price and there the Toyo will be better.
But the 3.5 Paj rear end is plenty strong.
The 3.5 Paj rear diffs came in a 4.636 or 4.90 ratio some later models had 4.27.
funny or not I can find the Pajero rear diff easier, with the factory locker as well. The problem is finding a front to match it.
The Toyota 80 series was never imported in Greece, in fact the 90 series was the first Land Cruiser officially available. I don't know if the Hilux axles are the same.
Pajero 88 model, with 3.5 V6 manual
Traka buggy, RR Classic based, 3.9 EFI, auto
Traka buggy, RR Classic based, 3.9 EFI, auto
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 121 guests