I have just had a good look at the Nissan I bought a month ago for the first time. Looking at it I should have looked more closely when i bought it!
The body is fine, the engine and drive train seems fine but, where the body joins to the chassis isn't wonderful....
To begin with does anyone know if Nissan sell [& if you do, do you know the part numbers]...
1 - the Front & Rear Suspension turretts? - the bits that attach to the body that the springs slip into?
2 - the brackets that the body mounts sit in and that attach to the chassis?
3 - the very rear cross member [looks like a bit of 4x4 square tubing to me] that sits right under the rear barn type doors [and above the tow bar cross member if you have one]?
4 - a new manifold & exhaust for a TB42E [i don't want a stainless steel one as i intend in 2 years to swap the petrol engine for a diesel one - so i just need the cheapest mild steel option so the vehicle passes its mot next March]
The chassis rails themselves look fine and strong [but the original black coating is now flaking off - and so I'm going to spend £1k getting the chassis blasted back and rust proofed in the new year] with the exception of that last chassis member under the rear barn type doors.
Thank you all for your help.
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1994 GQ LQB - Suspension Turretts & Other Body stuff...
You will be able to get all that stuff from a 4x4 wreckers. It might be easier and way cheaper to get a complete chasis and swap over everything. That way you will be able to clean the chasis up and rust proof it knowing that it is completly in good condition.
LudaCris
LudaCris
Cris's 4 X 4 Accessories & Suspension 0404 736 325 Rock Sliders From $499
...
Search for a thread here entitle Nissan Parts Numbers.
You can download the actual progam nissan uses to locate parts/parts numbers. You can then find out the numbers yourself..
Genuine will still be expensive. I agree with the other chappys it may be easier to find a complete chassiss in A1 condition. Derelict it on your front lawn for a while, prep it, rust proof it, reinforce it.. bolt the diesel engine in along with the rest of the drivetrain then drop the body on. Sounds easy....
Can you just have the coil perches reinforced and welded again ? - A good idead anyway. Like wise with the body mount plates ? If you chose to do all of this then look at welding some plate onto the body where the rubber mounts go. GQ body's are very weak in that area and can crack.
You can download the actual progam nissan uses to locate parts/parts numbers. You can then find out the numbers yourself..
Genuine will still be expensive. I agree with the other chappys it may be easier to find a complete chassiss in A1 condition. Derelict it on your front lawn for a while, prep it, rust proof it, reinforce it.. bolt the diesel engine in along with the rest of the drivetrain then drop the body on. Sounds easy....
Can you just have the coil perches reinforced and welded again ? - A good idead anyway. Like wise with the body mount plates ? If you chose to do all of this then look at welding some plate onto the body where the rubber mounts go. GQ body's are very weak in that area and can crack.
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
Harvey
I am in uk and have a GQ TD42 with a chassis that sounds much like yours. I`ve done more welding on it than on my 23yr old Landrover. Your gonna be busy with the welder mate and you wont get no chassis in wreckers in Uk as you prolly know. I don`t think these parts are available from Nissan though I wish they were. The chassis rots from inside out. Check the outer face of the curved sections that go over rear axle, mine were paper thin and I cut in new sections. Front sills under door hinges behind mudflap, new sections. Bottom of chassis at rear trailing arms, new sections plus rear body mounts had to be refabbed. I love the truck but if it was a Landrover I would buy a new Galvanised chassis for £1100 and fit it. Thing is any Y60s I`ve seen in UK are the same. You would need to find one that had been Waxoyled from new and done again at some point in it`s life. It`s disapointing as I love everything else about the truck. Toyota 80 series do not suffer the same.
Where in Uk are you Harvey?
Alex
I am in uk and have a GQ TD42 with a chassis that sounds much like yours. I`ve done more welding on it than on my 23yr old Landrover. Your gonna be busy with the welder mate and you wont get no chassis in wreckers in Uk as you prolly know. I don`t think these parts are available from Nissan though I wish they were. The chassis rots from inside out. Check the outer face of the curved sections that go over rear axle, mine were paper thin and I cut in new sections. Front sills under door hinges behind mudflap, new sections. Bottom of chassis at rear trailing arms, new sections plus rear body mounts had to be refabbed. I love the truck but if it was a Landrover I would buy a new Galvanised chassis for £1100 and fit it. Thing is any Y60s I`ve seen in UK are the same. You would need to find one that had been Waxoyled from new and done again at some point in it`s life. It`s disapointing as I love everything else about the truck. Toyota 80 series do not suffer the same.
Where in Uk are you Harvey?
Alex
Harvey will post some pics up next week. Are chassis/body mounts badly corroded? Like can they take a hammer? As I say mate my chassis has got worse in 1 yr. It`s the rear third of it that`s poor but I`ve spent a bit of time and money fixing it up so I`m committed to it now. Would you not be better to cut your losses and look for a diesel model with a good chassis. I don`t know if any 10yr old ones exist in UK mind you. I think if I had my chance again I would have looked for another one. Anyway your manifold, is it cracked? Try and get it repaired...new one is extortionate. If you need any of the actual exhaust sections try a company called Chester Exhausts. They got me a Genuine Nissan front pipe with the two branches on it for £140. Nissan wanted £210 for exact same part. If like me you`ve had Landrover the Nissan prices will shock you. Bearings can be got from Industria or similar bearing companys, same stuff as Nissan put in but one quarter the cost. When you say body is good, do you not have rust on rear quarters behind mudflaps? I cut abot six inches of these off and welded in new metal. Any bubbling on wheelarches? . Funnily enough all my doors are good as is around windows unlike the MQ/MKs here. What do you say?
Alex
Alex
Duncan when you say chassis, I take it you mean one from a breakers. I think it would be expensive for shipping and how good would it be? If I was going to lift the body up off my chassis I would just plate all the bad bits and rebuild the sections. The body is the only thing stopping me going to town on it just now. And the weather ( -6 here today at noon 
).It`s still solid and safe thanks to me little welder I`ve bought the truck and I aint gonna let the little Jap builders grind me down 
Alex
).It`s still solid and safe thanks to me little welder I`ve bought the truck and I aint gonna let the little Jap builders grind me down Alex
Alex,
I've had a look at the bits you've had problems with... they'd take a hammer for now [if i whacked hard enough i'm sure they body mounts would bend but they certainly wouldn't break] but in 12 months i'd say they'd be shot. I'm loathe to get rid of it just now. I've had it only 1 month. Paid £3,000 for it and sold a bloody great little KZJ70 for £2600 with no body problems whatsoever.
The chassis rails at the rear are solid. Surface rust only that's taken [what i call] the black lining/lacker off the front. The driver's side is worse than the passenger side but both are ok.
Rust around the wheel arches is negligable - i reckon it'll be there in 12 months time. Right now nothing has bubbled through. So it'll be a quick job for my body man to fix. I'm going to tell my body man to go to town on it.
My aim is to have all the body work done in Jan 06 and then take it all to Before'n'after.co.uk to have it put up on the hoist and waxoiled inside and out [if he recommends it] or klentech'd if the fella there thinks the rust hasn't got too strong a hold just yet.
Btw... my thoughts were the Landy 110 would be the ideal touring vehicle [and with the new house comes a garage to work in] but i didn't think that i'd be able to fit a nissan 6 TD in it which is why i didn't buy their chassis and start a project on that one.
And the only reason i don't want to buy a diesel version just yet is because i want to buy a 2nd hand diesel - rebuild it myself and then put it in The Widow [the name of the car because its got a bloody big spider sticker on the side of it] and this way my wife and i will have a second vehicle to drive around in whilst i rebuild the other engine.
I've had a look at the bits you've had problems with... they'd take a hammer for now [if i whacked hard enough i'm sure they body mounts would bend but they certainly wouldn't break] but in 12 months i'd say they'd be shot. I'm loathe to get rid of it just now. I've had it only 1 month. Paid £3,000 for it and sold a bloody great little KZJ70 for £2600 with no body problems whatsoever.
The chassis rails at the rear are solid. Surface rust only that's taken [what i call] the black lining/lacker off the front. The driver's side is worse than the passenger side but both are ok.
Rust around the wheel arches is negligable - i reckon it'll be there in 12 months time. Right now nothing has bubbled through. So it'll be a quick job for my body man to fix. I'm going to tell my body man to go to town on it.
My aim is to have all the body work done in Jan 06 and then take it all to Before'n'after.co.uk to have it put up on the hoist and waxoiled inside and out [if he recommends it] or klentech'd if the fella there thinks the rust hasn't got too strong a hold just yet.
Btw... my thoughts were the Landy 110 would be the ideal touring vehicle [and with the new house comes a garage to work in] but i didn't think that i'd be able to fit a nissan 6 TD in it which is why i didn't buy their chassis and start a project on that one.
And the only reason i don't want to buy a diesel version just yet is because i want to buy a 2nd hand diesel - rebuild it myself and then put it in The Widow [the name of the car because its got a bloody big spider sticker on the side of it] and this way my wife and i will have a second vehicle to drive around in whilst i rebuild the other engine.
Duncan
any idea on what GQ Chassis cost in Oz? It'd be ironic if I bought bought a chassis from Oz to the UK as i intend to drive the vehicle back from the UK to Oz! - hence why i want to get everything i can for The Widow absolutely spot on.
On another angle - would it be at all difficult to actually build the chassis itself? I've got a diagram with all the measurements but the only thing i can think of [that the diagram doesn't show] are the angles that the curved bit at the rear of the chassis rises by and angle the chassis narrows by at the front.
any idea on what GQ Chassis cost in Oz? It'd be ironic if I bought bought a chassis from Oz to the UK as i intend to drive the vehicle back from the UK to Oz! - hence why i want to get everything i can for The Widow absolutely spot on.
On another angle - would it be at all difficult to actually build the chassis itself? I've got a diagram with all the measurements but the only thing i can think of [that the diagram doesn't show] are the angles that the curved bit at the rear of the chassis rises by and angle the chassis narrows by at the front.
Funnily enough if I`m not mistaken I watched your little Cruiser on Ebay which got sold to a guy on Difflock forum.....Nivapilot. When I saw the Patrol sitting there I guessed you had bought that to do the journey that you spoke of instead of the Yota. If you bought the Y60 on Ebay as well then I must have seen it. Anyway.....where are you gonna get a TD42 engine? Are you gonna buy a basket case and swop engines. Only cheap vehicles you see here are the MQ/MKs with 3.3TD which is a good engine for a rebuild. Your body sounds not bad but I realise you want it to be A1 for your trip. You could fab some reinforcing for floor brackets as a safegaurd before Mr Waxoil gets it I`ve done this on the triangular section where it connects at right angles to the chassis cutting out the bad sections first. Yeah I wanted the Def 110 as well but they are twice the price of a Patrol and although more rebuildable they always need rebuilding so you end up paying all the way from start to finish. For what they are they aint worth the money. I think the Patrol has a better engine/drivetrain and better to travel in with mixed driving.
Alex
I`ve done this on the triangular section where it connects at right angles to the chassis cutting out the bad sections first. Yeah I wanted the Def 110 as well but they are twice the price of a Patrol and although more rebuildable they always need rebuilding so you end up paying all the way from start to finish. For what they are they aint worth the money. I think the Patrol has a better engine/drivetrain and better to travel in with mixed driving.Alex
Alex
you're absolutely right. Nivapilot did by my little Yota. Brilliant vehicle that. Before selling it i toyed with the idea of building an offroad trailor but thought that if my wife and i got into a tricky [meaning bad people] or sticky [meaning difficult 4x4 terrain] then we'd have to get rid of the trailor in a hurry and most of our supplies!
Nivapilot intends to use it as a pucka 4x4 and he's gonna love it. Importantly for him he's already sent me an email telling me that his wife approves of his new purchase!
About a month prior to selling it i attended an ELCO event and an army fella was converted from LR's to Yota's on the basis of the day he had riding shotgun in my SWB vehicle - he incidentally i understand has gone on to buy an 80 series Yota to prepare for his 2 year round africa trip!
I echo your views on the Def 110 exactly. But the telling thing for me came from an experienced safari man who said that smaller capacity engines just can't cope [even though modern day engines are more powerful] with long expedition events. For that reason he recommends 4ltr + engines of the Nissan's and Toyotas. A Toyota wasn't in my price range so i bought the nissan you saw in the back of my photos on ebay!
Alex, where exactly are you talking about the reinforcing the body - is it under the front footwells up to the chassis? Do you have any photos??
I don't know where I'll get a TD42 engine yet but i'll work on it. I know i can get new ones for about 3500 euro in Germany but i'd rather learn all about the mechanicals by buying one from a wrecker's. Failing that i was considering a Toyota Diesel - whether or not it'd marry up to the Nissan drivetrain though i don't know.
As for the 3.3 TD engines - are they any good?
you're absolutely right. Nivapilot did by my little Yota. Brilliant vehicle that. Before selling it i toyed with the idea of building an offroad trailor but thought that if my wife and i got into a tricky [meaning bad people] or sticky [meaning difficult 4x4 terrain] then we'd have to get rid of the trailor in a hurry and most of our supplies!
Nivapilot intends to use it as a pucka 4x4 and he's gonna love it. Importantly for him he's already sent me an email telling me that his wife approves of his new purchase!
About a month prior to selling it i attended an ELCO event and an army fella was converted from LR's to Yota's on the basis of the day he had riding shotgun in my SWB vehicle - he incidentally i understand has gone on to buy an 80 series Yota to prepare for his 2 year round africa trip!
I echo your views on the Def 110 exactly. But the telling thing for me came from an experienced safari man who said that smaller capacity engines just can't cope [even though modern day engines are more powerful] with long expedition events. For that reason he recommends 4ltr + engines of the Nissan's and Toyotas. A Toyota wasn't in my price range so i bought the nissan you saw in the back of my photos on ebay!
Alex, where exactly are you talking about the reinforcing the body - is it under the front footwells up to the chassis? Do you have any photos??
I don't know where I'll get a TD42 engine yet but i'll work on it. I know i can get new ones for about 3500 euro in Germany but i'd rather learn all about the mechanicals by buying one from a wrecker's. Failing that i was considering a Toyota Diesel - whether or not it'd marry up to the Nissan drivetrain though i don't know.
As for the 3.3 TD engines - are they any good?
It`s true Harvey if you`re extracting nearly the same amount of power from 2.5tdi as 4.2 N/A the small engine is under a lot more pressure. The reinforcing I was referring to was the body/floor mounts where they meet the chassis. I thought you were saying that yours were a bit thin. I think some of the guys on here also beef up the floor where the stud comes through from the rubber mount. Worth checking them to see if holes are ok. I think they can go oval if they`ve seen heavy use. I`ve mainly heard good things about the 3.3td in the same way that Td42 is good but that 2.8 is only reasonable and has more issues with heads etc. Just thought that if you couldn`t pick up the 4.2 then the 3.3td outa scrap MQ might be an option There was a Danish guy raving about them from experience on Difflock last week said his mate had one in Denmark with 600k on it and he had one himself with big miles too. Guys on here will
know. Have loaned camera out but will get it next week. The Patrols here don`t have big miles on them so you may not have too much to do to an engine should you pick one up. I`ll keep my ear to the ground.
Alex
know. Have loaned camera out but will get it next week. The Patrols here don`t have big miles on them so you may not have too much to do to an engine should you pick one up. I`ll keep my ear to the ground.
Alex
Cheer's Alex.
out of interest I don't think my particular example has ever been offroad - except for someone's driveway. Which is great! I think this purely because there is absolutely no crap underneath and it certainly doesn't look anyone's had it up on a hoist to steam clean. So I think i'm luck in that respect. But it does look as though Nissan knew absolutely nothing about rust proofing or undersealing these particular vehicles - which is a shock coming from my little LandCruiser.
Out of interest as you're in Benidorm [sorry I'm taking the p*ss now] if ever you want to meet up mid point [thinking pennines now] for some offroading next year then [so long as the Patrol is fully up to my spec by then] i'd be up for it.
Harv.
out of interest I don't think my particular example has ever been offroad - except for someone's driveway. Which is great! I think this purely because there is absolutely no crap underneath and it certainly doesn't look anyone's had it up on a hoist to steam clean. So I think i'm luck in that respect. But it does look as though Nissan knew absolutely nothing about rust proofing or undersealing these particular vehicles - which is a shock coming from my little LandCruiser.
Out of interest as you're in Benidorm [sorry I'm taking the p*ss now] if ever you want to meet up mid point [thinking pennines now] for some offroading next year then [so long as the Patrol is fully up to my spec by then] i'd be up for it.
Harv.
Thanks for the offer Harvey , I appreciate that. I`m actually quite exited
about your trip. My son is just back from a year in Ozz and still raving about it. You`ve prolly caught the Patrol in time as the treatment from Before n After with the waxoil will hold any rust back now. Don`t know what suspension you`re gonna put on but I got a good deal on a new lift kit from a guy on ebay. Belton springs and Pro Comp 2" lift. I know they`re not Old Man Emu but the price was good. I got 33" wheels and tyres from West Coast off road in Southport. His prices are super and he also does Iron Man suspension so he`s a good contact for the Patrol stuff.
Alex
about your trip. My son is just back from a year in Ozz and still raving about it. You`ve prolly caught the Patrol in time as the treatment from Before n After with the waxoil will hold any rust back now. Don`t know what suspension you`re gonna put on but I got a good deal on a new lift kit from a guy on ebay. Belton springs and Pro Comp 2" lift. I know they`re not Old Man Emu but the price was good. I got 33" wheels and tyres from West Coast off road in Southport. His prices are super and he also does Iron Man suspension so he`s a good contact for the Patrol stuff.
Alex
on the suspension front i've pretty much set myself on a 1" body lift with 3" suspension lift. I was considering dobinsons for the springs and procomps for the shocks as i've only heard good things about this set up. But, having been really pleased with the foamcell shocks i put on the toyota and having just learned that 80 series LC shocks will bolt straight on the front of a Patrol i might look into the feasability of 2" ironman foamcell 80series shocks. I understand that 2" for a 80 series LC is equivalent [or near enough damn it] to a 4" lift for a Patrol so it should be a good match. The ironman kit on the Toyota i had was brilliant.
I'm not keen on 2" body lifts given what i've read but a 1" i reckon will be spot on - it should be just enough to stop any rubbing of the larger 33" tyres that'll be going on it [Cooper STs - as these were great on my LC] and not too big to stress the body out [though i will have where the body mounts attach to the actual body welded/reinforced] and not to big to have great big silly gaps front/rear of the bumpers.
I was also considerint a low mount [TJM17?] or similar bumper [not the full bull bar just the replacement bumper] that will allow a fitment of a winch. Unless you're going tree bashing i can't see a reason for a bullbar in Wester/Eastern Europe - as i have no intention of getting close enough to deers or bears!
I'm not keen on 2" body lifts given what i've read but a 1" i reckon will be spot on - it should be just enough to stop any rubbing of the larger 33" tyres that'll be going on it [Cooper STs - as these were great on my LC] and not too big to stress the body out [though i will have where the body mounts attach to the actual body welded/reinforced] and not to big to have great big silly gaps front/rear of the bumpers.
I was also considerint a low mount [TJM17?] or similar bumper [not the full bull bar just the replacement bumper] that will allow a fitment of a winch. Unless you're going tree bashing i can't see a reason for a bullbar in Wester/Eastern Europe - as i have no intention of getting close enough to deers or bears!
Bogged; 3inch spring lift and 1" body lift will surely only rub in extreme circumstances and be acceptable overall will it not? When I renew body mount rubbers I will put 1" hard nylon spacers in to go with my 2" spring lift. Travelling Scotland I`ve hit a few deer and sheep on the roads so my bullbar stays Aint never hit a pedestrian with a bullbar.....or anything else for that matter!
Alex
Aint never hit a pedestrian with a bullbar.....or anything else for that matter! Alex
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